2000 s 4.0 Vin SAJDA01D5YGL07894
Told I need to replace the GEM module. I found one but the vcats for the GEM ends in 002. My label ends in 007. What's the difference?

 

Normally you get a fast blinker when you have a bulb that’s not working

 

My turn signal flashes fast, bulbs are good. I was told I need a GEM module. I found one but the GEM vcats label ends in 002 mine is oo7. What's the difference, can I use 002?

 

Hi Billy 791,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

I have merged your two threads into one. Please do not start any additional threads on this topic - it can cause duplicate effort on the part of other members who want to help, and can also lead to confusion as to what ideas have already been offered.

First, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction.

Second, please read all the information at this link:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-up%2A-241802/

Third, do your turn signals flash too fast in both directions, or only when switched to the right or left?

One possibility is corrosion in one or more bulb sockets causing high resistance that the GEM is interpreting as an open circuit. Removing bulbs and thoroughly cleaning all the socket terminals and bulb bases is good regular maintenance. Another possibility is corrosion on a ground point referenced by the GEM or any of the turn signal lamp assemblies. You can find the locations of these ground points, along with other wiring schematics, in the manual at this link:

Jaguar S-Type Electrical Guide 2002.5 onward

Cheers,

Don

 

Have any of the bulbs been replaced with LED's?
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.
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Put in a new fuse, as the fuse slowly burns through, things might not work right. Easy to do, especially if you have an owners manual.

 

Hi Catmobile,

I have never heard that fuses slowly burn through... I work on vehicles from the '50s and '60s that still have many of their original fuses. Can you give us a more detailed explanation of what you are describing?

Thanks!

Don

 

Perhaps it's a 10mm fuse that's just blown down to 5mm?

 

🤣🤣brilliant! But you missed an opportunity for a .22 calibre bullet (Near-miss Darwin award style).

 

Fuse is good, thinking bad ecm.

 

Just in case the information got lost in this longer thread now - the thing, which clubairth1 wrote above:
Did you replace OE bulbs with LED bulbs? A frequent consequence of doing this is that the system thinks that there is a burned out bulb and it makes the fast indicator noise on purpose (while I do not think that the indicator also blinks faster - it's just the noise that is faster...).

If that is the case there are ways of tricking the system - I think with additional resistors (or something better, as there is not much point in saving energy via LED bulbs to then burn the energy in resistors) - but I never went into the details of that.

 

No LED bulbs just regular ones. Voltage to the lites ok.

 

With my car, first the right brake light was working at times, at times it wasn't. I changed bulbs and it was still working sometimes. After a while it was working less and less and then then stopped working and then another light bulb quit working. I checked the fuse, which was blown and replaced it and all is fine. I figure that it was a minor problem and the fuse was slowly burning out as opposed to a big problem that burns it out all at once, and as there was less and less material on the fuse it affected how the lights worked. I also had another problem and the fuse looked ok except the contacts were not shiny, but when I changed it and with a brand new shiny fuse, the problem went away.

 

If the voltage to the lights is ok and you have new bulbs the right kind try, pulling up on the contact in the socket with some tweezers a little bit to make sure it makes contact with the bulb and if needed fiddle with the bulb a little with the light on to make sure it has good contact when you put it in.