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Driver side windows buttons and auto headlamp sensor problem

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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 11:36 AM
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Default Driver side windows buttons and auto headlamp sensor problem

Does anyone know how to fix a driver side window buttons and auto headlamp problem? The driver side window buttons sometimes work sometimes doesn't. I had to slam the door or turn the ignition a couple of time to get it work. But window buttons dont work (&no illuminating lights to the unit under the buttons) when the headlamps/daylights are on.

When switch to on Autolamp the headlights are always on, but it wont sense if it's bright or dark to automatically turn them on/off. what to check?

03 StypeR
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 12:50 PM
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The stalk / its wiring are known to fail so meter it out or replace? Or pore over circuit diagram / read workshop manual - free downloads.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Default replace module or window buttons unit?

thks for the quick reply. So when you say stalk are you referring to the bottom part of windows button unit? And you suggested to open up the door to the button unit to tighten up wiring or meter how much power it's getting? What should i replace if it doesnt work? the DRIVER'S DOOR CONTROL MODULE 4R83-13C791-AB not the driver door seat module right?

I also tried to shine lights into the mirror both the front and back sensors, nothing covering the dash sensor. On autolamp but it wont switch off. what's next?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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Light stalk. Door's separate issue I expect.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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Default parts to replace to make the windows button work

So it's the 1st one the buttons w/ circuit board, or the 2nd picture the autolamp light stalk lever?





 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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I think JagV8 means the auto lamp function is controlled by the turn signal stalk. Your second picture.

If the auto lamp does not work he is suggesting you replace the stalk.

For your door window switch problem I would see if I could get a reasonable priced one off EBay. This is a part common to all S Types and many 6 cylinder cars are being parted out all the time so you should have no problem getting another switch assembly.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 03:07 PM
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thks i'll get the master switch for the window problem.

my 1st check was -when i turned the signal stalk to autolamp, the odometer led screen said autolamp, and it turned on the headlamp, but didnt turn it off during day time, so the turning stalk works? 2nd check was- shinning lights to both front and back of the sensors in the mirror, autolamp switch was on but didnt turn off the headlight. What do you suggest for the next check?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 12:26 AM
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So i swapped the window switches, but same problem. Windows up/down works sometimes, and does not work when the headlights are on. Is it a relay (where?), feels like it's not getting enough power to the unit or something strange. What should i check next?



swapping window switches, but not the switch problem. something else like relay or power
 
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 03:11 PM
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You have a DDM (Drivers Door Module) which could be the problem since you have changed the switch. The DDM is inside the driver's door so you should be able to see it with the door panel off.

Could be a connection problem too since you said slamming the door gets it to work. Not sure why it would?

The sun sensor is located on the top of the dash. See the round dome on the defroster panel up by the windshield?
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Last edited by tbird6; Sep 22, 2015 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 11:53 AM
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Results:
I put all the parts back (windows button unit) so didnt swtich to any used parts. But found the body harness that goes all the way around the car, the 1 section from the side of the door was broken. Most of these are color coded so i could attach them correctly. But the black ones some are thicker, longer, a little bit of guessing. But good thing these wires do quite a few functions (windows up/down, door locks, door close chime, etc) so my guessing work took only an hour.

Problem:
My key Fob transmitter is not working, was pointed out that instead of 1 3V 2032 battery, i used 2x 2016 3V which added to 6V, might have damaged the circuit board. And battery was upside down too for awhile to test. I had to hold the button longer and longer over the months to unlock the car and one day it didnt work anymore, tried new 2032 battery. Is there any way to test if it's the transmitter FOB problem or the car's receiving side? How to check? If to reprogram the transmitter i can get an after market one but dont need to recut the keys right?
 

Last edited by rentzoo; Nov 3, 2015 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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Results: The OEM FOB Left is cooked, the green stuff around the button indicates that water got in. The 2 aftermarket FOBs on right look much simpler than the OEM but reprogrammed and now work
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 04:56 PM
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Good job on the broken wires. Those are not usually easy to find.
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