Electrical Problem
I have a problem with my SType Jaguar that I have been unable to have fixed going on 3 years. I won't take it to the Jaguar dealer any more as nothing seems to get done. The last time I took it to them they had it for 3 weeks, "sitting on the diagnostic" machines and all they could tell me was an electrical module was bad. They said Jaguar doesn't make the modules any more so they ordered a used one. That fixed the problem for about 3 weeks.
The problem is my battery dies overnight. I've had the battery replaced 3 times - once because the dealer said the battery must be bad and it was under warranty. Two times afterwards.
I'm a 76 year old female and when I try to talk to mechanics I get the eye roll. The last two times I took my car into the dealer with the electrical problem I told them that one problem is the window control panel on the drivers side heats up to the point of almost burning my hand when I use the lights at night. Nothing has been done about it.
I read in your forum a couple years ago someone was expressing the same dead battery frustration and they said that before the motor is turned off they turn off everything in the car. I turned off the auto light - don't use it any more. I never use the radio but when I get the battery jumped the radio comes on. I turn off my lights and AC/Heater before I turn the motor off. That seems to help for a long period of time.
I don't drive at night if possible because when I use the lights, even though I turn them off before the motor shuts off, my battery is dead the next day.
I'm really frustrated with the situation, I love that car and don't want to sell it, but I can't keep taking it to the dealer and not have the problem fixed. My son, who is not a mechanic, is wanting to help so he will be looking at the answers here as well.
The problem is my battery dies overnight. I've had the battery replaced 3 times - once because the dealer said the battery must be bad and it was under warranty. Two times afterwards.
I'm a 76 year old female and when I try to talk to mechanics I get the eye roll. The last two times I took my car into the dealer with the electrical problem I told them that one problem is the window control panel on the drivers side heats up to the point of almost burning my hand when I use the lights at night. Nothing has been done about it.
I read in your forum a couple years ago someone was expressing the same dead battery frustration and they said that before the motor is turned off they turn off everything in the car. I turned off the auto light - don't use it any more. I never use the radio but when I get the battery jumped the radio comes on. I turn off my lights and AC/Heater before I turn the motor off. That seems to help for a long period of time.
I don't drive at night if possible because when I use the lights, even though I turn them off before the motor shuts off, my battery is dead the next day.
I'm really frustrated with the situation, I love that car and don't want to sell it, but I can't keep taking it to the dealer and not have the problem fixed. My son, who is not a mechanic, is wanting to help so he will be looking at the answers here as well.
Yeah, that was my first thought, too. Perhaps you don't have an actual battery drain, but instead it isn't getting properly charged in the first place. Your driving pattern can also affect the performance of the charging system. If only making short, infrequent trips, especially with the heater or AC blasting, the charging system may never get enough time to keep the battery topped off.
The basic check of the charging system is very simple. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. On an early model car (you didn't specify what year), you should see around 13.5 volts. On a 2003+ model, you should see close to 15 volts for several minutes, and then tapering back around 13.5 volts.
If that checks well, you can test for a battery drain as described here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-drain-123535/
Any competent automotive electrical shop can run through that test.
For the window control panel getting hot to the touch, see the third PDF in post #17 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...86/#post139198
That bulletin specifies to replace the bulbs with part # JLM21553. Search online with that part number and you will see many sources.
As far as mechanics not listening to you, have you considered disguising yourself as a man, blabbing about sports, and scratching yourself inappropriately?
Maybe then they would listen to you.
The basic check of the charging system is very simple. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. On an early model car (you didn't specify what year), you should see around 13.5 volts. On a 2003+ model, you should see close to 15 volts for several minutes, and then tapering back around 13.5 volts.
If that checks well, you can test for a battery drain as described here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-drain-123535/
Any competent automotive electrical shop can run through that test.
For the window control panel getting hot to the touch, see the third PDF in post #17 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...86/#post139198
That bulletin specifies to replace the bulbs with part # JLM21553. Search online with that part number and you will see many sources.
As far as mechanics not listening to you, have you considered disguising yourself as a man, blabbing about sports, and scratching yourself inappropriately?
Maybe then they would listen to you.
Last edited by kr98664; Oct 29, 2020 at 02:07 PM.
Thanks for your reply. The dealer has replaced the battery 3 times and had the car on diagnostic machines for 3 weeks in Jan. 2019. I think I remember them telling me the alternator was ok, but in looking at the paperwork nothing is mentioned. I will check it out in the next week. Right now the battery is dead. My son is working 2 jobs because of the national situation, so it may take a week or so. But thanks.
Yeah, that was my first thought, too. Perhaps you don't have an actual battery drain, but instead it isn't getting properly charged in the first place. Your driving pattern can also affect the performance of the charging system. If only making short, infrequent trips, especially with the heater or AC blasting, the charging system may never get enough time to keep the battery topped off.
The basic check of the charging system is very simple. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. On an early model car (you didn't specify what year), you should see around 13.5 volts. On a 2003+ model, you should see close to 15 volts for several minutes, and then tapering back around 13.5 volts.
If that checks well, you can test for a battery drain as described here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-drain-123535/
Any competent automotive electrical shop can run through that test.
For the window control panel getting hot to the touch, see the third PDF in post #17 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...86/#post139198
That bulletin specifies to replace the bulbs with part # JLM21553. Search online with that part number and you will see many sources.
As far as mechanics not listening to you, have you considered disguising yourself as a man, blabbing about sports, and scratching yourself inappropriately?
Maybe then they would listen to you.
The basic check of the charging system is very simple. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. On an early model car (you didn't specify what year), you should see around 13.5 volts. On a 2003+ model, you should see close to 15 volts for several minutes, and then tapering back around 13.5 volts.
If that checks well, you can test for a battery drain as described here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-drain-123535/
Any competent automotive electrical shop can run through that test.
For the window control panel getting hot to the touch, see the third PDF in post #17 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...86/#post139198
That bulletin specifies to replace the bulbs with part # JLM21553. Search online with that part number and you will see many sources.
As far as mechanics not listening to you, have you considered disguising yourself as a man, blabbing about sports, and scratching yourself inappropriately?
Maybe then they would listen to you.I am the 3rd owner of the car, a 2000 SType, it only has 96,000 miles and otherwise looks and runs beautifully, but at this point am seriously considering selling it.
I will get back with you on the results.
If the alternator has a shorted diode/rectifier, have it removed and overhauled by a competent automotive electrical shop then reinstalled. Purchasing one from a parts house that is 'rebuilt' is asking for another list of frustrating problems.
Thank you, printing it off for reference.
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Re: 2000 SType
Again, thanks for the suggestions and help. The alternator checks out ok, it's at 13.8 volts. The battery is about 3 month old and was dead last week. I had it jumped and I drove it for over an hour on the expressways yesterday. I haven't checked it out today, but from past experience it should be good for awhile. When I jumped it, the radio was on and I NEVER turn the radio on. The previous owner (my sister) had to have the radio replaced at one point. So am wondering if there is a connection there??
Again, thanks for the suggestions and help. The alternator checks out ok, it's at 13.8 volts. The battery is about 3 month old and was dead last week. I had it jumped and I drove it for over an hour on the expressways yesterday. I haven't checked it out today, but from past experience it should be good for awhile. When I jumped it, the radio was on and I NEVER turn the radio on. The previous owner (my sister) had to have the radio replaced at one point. So am wondering if there is a connection there??
Just because the alternator is charging doesn't mean it isn't the source of a draw when the vehicle is shut off. The diode/rectifier pack acts as a one way 'gate' that doesn't allow current to flow back discharging the battery. It must be checked for current draw when the key is out of the ignition.
Just because the alternator is charging doesn't mean it isn't the source of a draw when the vehicle is shut off. The diode/rectifier pack acts as a one way 'gate' that doesn't allow current to flow back discharging the battery. It must be checked for current draw when the key is out of the ignition.
Billie
This not closing is a known common fault and it will result in a battery drain.
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