Engine Sludge/ Valve cover removal
#1
Engine Sludge/ Valve cover removal
I am fairly cetain i have engine sludge as oil is being shot out the drivers side breather valve into the air intake tube and it gets on my air filter and MAF. I have all the screws undone to take the valve cover off the only thing in the way is the fuel line that goes over the drivers side engine bank and into the fuel rail. It has a silver almost puck looking thing in the line and i can not get the valve cover out because where you put oil in gets caught on this piece. What all should i be looking for to fix the sludge problem when i get it off, as MAF sensors are gettign exspensive. The car is a 2000 V-8 S-type. thanks in advance
#2
OK, first, I would have run engine cleaner through the engine. The sludge you are referring to is normal accumulation over time.
you have to relieve the fuel pressure - disconnect battery and depress the schrader valve (towel underneath it - cold engine)
Purchase a fuel line disconnect tool (if unsure of size get one for Ford applications) the fuel line you are referring to is spring loaded - you insert the tool to release the line from the spring. They are sold in most auto stores.
Once you get the cover off simply wipe the sludge off the cam cover and also get the sludge cleaned from the line connecting the cam cover to the intake tube and the other tube as well.
Run that engine cleaner at idle for 10 - 15 minutes before each oil change. This should help keep the sludge at bay and also change that oil every 3 mos/3000 miles - or consider using full synthetic oil like Mobil 1
you have to relieve the fuel pressure - disconnect battery and depress the schrader valve (towel underneath it - cold engine)
Purchase a fuel line disconnect tool (if unsure of size get one for Ford applications) the fuel line you are referring to is spring loaded - you insert the tool to release the line from the spring. They are sold in most auto stores.
Once you get the cover off simply wipe the sludge off the cam cover and also get the sludge cleaned from the line connecting the cam cover to the intake tube and the other tube as well.
Run that engine cleaner at idle for 10 - 15 minutes before each oil change. This should help keep the sludge at bay and also change that oil every 3 mos/3000 miles - or consider using full synthetic oil like Mobil 1
#4
Join Date: Oct 2009
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No, you might have an underlying and serious engine problem- the sludge and high volume of flow is a symptom/result not a cause. I'd abandon the sludge removal as a 'cure' and start looking deeper by doing a compression test. S-type engines live long and happy lives on regular dino oil and OEM recommended 10K mile changes levels.
#5
#6
+1 on Mikey's advice - not going to hurt to use engine flush though. I only suggested it cause when I acquired my S Type from the previous owner - I had the same issue with sludge build up - I did have a compression test completed and the engine was 100%
I use "Gunk - High Mileage Motor Flush" at every oil change - I know OEM recommends 10K oil change intervals Mikey but I believe that contributes to the sludge build up as 10K miles turns into 13K miles with most owners... and let's face facts - we have to second guess OEM recommedations w/ Jaguar anyway..(IE: sealed trans units) and most dino oils will detiorate at the 5K mark anyway... Did Jaguar use Mobil 1 as standard?
I use "Gunk - High Mileage Motor Flush" at every oil change - I know OEM recommends 10K oil change intervals Mikey but I believe that contributes to the sludge build up as 10K miles turns into 13K miles with most owners... and let's face facts - we have to second guess OEM recommedations w/ Jaguar anyway..(IE: sealed trans units) and most dino oils will detiorate at the 5K mark anyway... Did Jaguar use Mobil 1 as standard?
#7
Look for a missing oil separator screen in the valve covers. It is like one of those copper scrubbing pads. A number of people have found that a missing screen causes a lot of oil to travel through the breather hoses, both part load and full load.
There are pictures around here someplace of a way to check by looking down the fittings without removing the valve covers. But, if you have them off, there should be a plate on the inside of the valve cover towards the front and the oil separator mesh is sandwiched between the plate and the valve cover. It gets removed when someone decides that it is easier than cleaning the gunky screen.
There are pictures around here someplace of a way to check by looking down the fittings without removing the valve covers. But, if you have them off, there should be a plate on the inside of the valve cover towards the front and the oil separator mesh is sandwiched between the plate and the valve cover. It gets removed when someone decides that it is easier than cleaning the gunky screen.
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#8
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#9
bought some flush to run through it i will look for the oil screen in the morning. I will keep the oil changes to around 3k until i get it all cleared up. Where exactly is the oil screen if i am looking at the engine anf the drivers side is to my right i didnt see where it would go in there as i was not looking for it either so that may be the problem to. Thanks again for the responses
#10
Wow, surprising on the dino stuff - never would have thought... Thanks for the info..
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