I'm the third "owner" (not counting dealerships). It has just over 64k. I've only had it since 10/1 - I've not had any issues with it other than the air bag light - which is why I took it to a Jag mechanic prior to purchase. He found nothing wrong in the codes.

I don't know what codes came up today - all I had was the dash message center "hand brake error" and "gearbox error" - it will not start now would it shift into neutral to tow.

I'll post as this unfolds.

 

I am thinking out loud here (I have had a few egg nogs tonight).

When a transmission fault occurs, many mechanics jump the gun and state "replace this or that" or "you need a new transmission". There could be other things that could be causing problems. For one there are 2 little screws on the transmission that are known for loosening and perhaps falling out.

Are you saying the vehicle will NOT shift into neutral for towing (stuck in park)? Running or not?

 

The car will not turn over. Turn the key and the error messages come on. The car would not shift out of park to get it out of the garage - had to slide it out on skids and onto the JerrDan. An interesting offload too.

The mechanic said the fault is a simple switch that has gone bad (neutral safety switch) however on my model he said that the fix is to replace the valve control panel as the switch is not available alone. Is that something that anyone else has dealt with?

I have no idea of the car's past life - the carfax showed little activity. The mechanic I took it too was not the same one that has it (he's almost an hour away - too far to have it towed and didn't know about the shop it's at now prior to purchase). The pre-purchase check showed minor issues - in line with the age and mileage.

I am not uncomfortable with this shop but it's my first dealing with them. Their website showed certified mechanics with years of Jag experience - a small shop with several exotics in the lot (eye candy) - that I wasn't aware were even in town. I am a bit uncomfortable with any transmission issue at this mileage - but with the extensive electronics in this car - if something were to go bad - it would be something as simple as a switch. I had a friend that ended up with $4k in transmission issues on her MB with lower mileage - but there were computer issues.

 

Rosemary, you (we) with MY (Model Year) 2003 and newer have the ZF 6HP26 gear box. Its a very strong transmission. In my almost 3 years being here and dealing with this gear box (transmission) I have not heard nor read anyone having to replace the "neutral saftey switch". On earlier models (2000 through 2002) there is a plastic piece that deteriorates that would be suspicious.

Since it is Saturday night, give a few "regulars" to chime in before you drop alot of money on a "mechanics" hunch. My bet is again with 2 little bolts that are located beside the transmission, and possibly a battery.

BTW did you get the vehicle jumped and it still would not turn over?

 

When the tow truck arrived - that was the first thing we tried. All the while the lights, radio, etc have been bright. I will check with the mechanic on Mon - they were going to do a battery check and a charging system check - we didn't discuss that with the other issue that surfaced.

Thank you again - I do hope that it does turn out to be a simple fix - regardless of warrantee - no need to spend $s if it's not broke - don't fix it. I'll watch though the balance of the weekend and read any other posts.

Enjoy those egg nogs - r

 

You need to be an electronics whizz to check the battery - all the old-fashioned tests do not work with modern cars and their computers. Sad but seems true. This sounds more and more like a bad battery or some such equivalent power problem. Leave the other items alone until you're not fairly sure but 100% sure it's not battery or other power problem. There are SO MANY threads about problems that were failing batteries.....

 

It appears there is no separate neutral safety switch like there was in the past.

If this is the problem (Which I really doubt-It has never been posted before that I can find??) please post back how you got it fixed.

Now what it looks like is either a problem with your shifter inside the car or a TCM failure which is located inside the transmission in the valve body.

BUT get the codes BEFORE agreeing to a repair. You have a problem that so far is not common and has not even been reported before.

It could be something as simple as a failed or mis-adjusted brake switch. Do you have brake lights when stepping on the brake pedal?? Of course this would not stop the car from starting only making it impossible to shift out of park.

Not even trying to turn over might be the PATS giving you trouble too? What is the red light in the middle of the defroster panel doing? Flashing on or off, solid red??

And of course like the others have been saying don't discount the battery as the cause.
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When the brake pedal is depressed - the brake lights (rear) come on.

I didn't notice any light on the dash/or at the top of dash/defrost (I have seen that light cycle before just not any routine- don't know all the habits she might have just yet - only owned her for a short time, that light had come on and sometimes seamed to flash when starting before, thought it was a cold sensor) - I have the sat nav system and it was turned to the audio. I didn't notice any other lights flashing or not as usual.

Thank you again for the advise - will continue to watch the comments and add them to my list of questions to the mechanic.

 

I've quoted some important bits below...

Quote:

Originally Posted by joycesjag

...Sounds like a failing battery. These vehicles are very sensitive to a low battery charge...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SchultzLD

...sometimes the Batt will check good but may have a bad cell...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JagV8

Probably a bad battery...very unlikely to be any kind of low voltage message with a failing battery. Things just go screwy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SchultzLD

...It's probably the batt! 5+ years is pushing it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by clubairth1

...I am also thinking a battery replacement will be the solution...

Quote:

Originally Posted by joycesjag

Hmmmm a "neutral safety switch has failed" in a 2006 MY. I am sorry I am a bit skeptical...Are there any codes that you could post?

Quote:

Originally Posted by joycesjag

...there are 2 little screws on the transmission that are known for loosening and perhaps falling out...

Quote:

Originally Posted by joycesjag

...before you drop alot of money on a "mechanics" hunch. My bet is again with 2 little bolts that are located beside the transmission, and possibly a battery.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JagV8

You need to be an electronics whizz to check the battery - all the old-fashioned tests do not work with modern cars and their computers. Sad but seems true. This sounds more and more like a bad battery or some such equivalent power problem. Leave the other items alone until you're not fairly sure but 100% sure it's not battery or other power problem. There are SO MANY threads about problems that were failing batteries.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by clubairth1

...Now what it looks like is either a problem with your shifter inside the car or a TCM failure which is located inside the transmission in the valve body. BUT get the codes BEFORE agreeing to a repair. You have a problem that so far is not common and has not even been reported before. It could be something as simple as a failed or mis-adjusted brake switch... ...And of course like the others have been saying don't discount the battery as the cause.

We are only trying to help. A batt is easy, and MIGHT be the fix. Truly incredible what a failing batt can cause on these cars. A few other VERY good ideas, like the screws, when they come lose the tranny don't know what gear to be in, or can't shift. Clubairth1 also made some good points about other failures.

The general consensus is these two things... Probably a bad batt, and post the codes.

But like Club said, you may have a very uncommon if not unique issue here. So please post back any and all information you find out to aid future members. Keep your head up, you'll get this figured out sooner or later, and we all hope it's something cheap and easy.

 

Thank you again. I have spoken with the shop this morning. The battery has been ordered and should arrive today (hope this is the fix). I told him I'd been on the "Forum" for the past 4 days and that most of the responses to my "error message" post were addressed with a likely battery issue but if it indeed is a failed nuetral safety switch there was interest in knowing the codes and the fix to be able to address others that may have that problem. He said he'd provide the codes (didn't give them to me on this call, but I'll keep addressing it till I get the codes and the fix).

Thank you again - I feel much better prepared to discuss this issue with the shop with the forums suggestions and will continue to post as this unfolds till the fix. So starts day 5 without the Jag... but - on the road in the Tahoe.

 

Glad to hear that he is willing to listen to someone’s opinion. I hope JagV8 will chime in on this because if I remember right you need some certain Jag Reader to read all the codes correctly, not just your standard OBDII reader. TCM stuff. I'm not sure if the Actron reader or the like will read all Jag codes or not, but that's one plus about a certified Jag tech. My point is I think you should get the codes and post them on here so we can tell you if this tech has the right stuff and is on the right track or not.

And about the Tahoe... just look at the bright side, your Jag is gonna be a novelty again next time you go for a drive. ;-)

 

Rosemary, next time you talk to the shop, ask them to check each battery cell with a hygrometer. That will tell you/them the condition of each cell.
Please let us know what they find.

 

Update. New battery is installed - does NOT correct the problem.

The CODE is: PO851

The Warrantee company is Fidelity Warrantee Service. I was going to purchase an extended warrantee at least for a year - to get comfortable with the car - has anyone delt with them or have a recommendation for a company they have used that would be reasonable in price and in claim submission?

 

I have Easy Care "Total Care" warranty. I had to use it last January and the dealer's service dept took care of everything. I do have a deductible and just paid it and was on my way after the car was fixed. Total Care also allows $30/day for a rental. I didn't like the choices of cars and Enterprise just "happened" to have a new XF which I jumped on, but at an additional $20/day which I gladly paid.

www.easycare.com

 

Thanks - I'll search and see what I can find - did find one in that advertised in the Forum - emailed for a quote.

 

Rosemary, sorry it wasn't the battery. Most of us would have bet money on that it was a failing cell or 2.

Ok moving on the P0851 code:



Has your mechacnic checked the two "Gear selector cable setting bolts"? Very easily done when the vehicle is on a lift. The bolts are located externally on the drivers side of the transmission. Again I stated in the beginning of this thread, these bolts are known for loosening and falling out.

 

I'd have your guy check those bolts that Rick is suggesting it ties in with the code that you have and is an easy 10 minute job to try before it gets too serious.

Here's one thread where it's discussed https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...to-park-59326/

 

Sry for the new abot the Batt. I would have lost money on that one. lol But like Rick said, move on to the next best and common thing, those two little bolts.

 

Thank you. Bottom line - I feel better that she has a new battery - it was one of the "to do" list items before it got cold.... and it's now cold. The next item will be a hood liner (not sure what happened to the orig or to the skid plates from the radiator to the trans) but that may need to wait till this issue is resolved.

Are there "only" two bolts on the housing? I mentioned that to my mechanic and it didn't bring a comment. Is there a part number - how tight need they be?

The mechanic said he often checks in with the Forum. He did say the neutral safety switch would disable the shift out of park. tx again - R

 

Opps - sorry - missed Ricks detailed note on the codes and bolts - the thread came up after I sent my response. I'll check with the mechanic.