Fighting a knock sensor code for 2 years — and still can’t beat it. P0333, S-Type 3.0
Did you ever figure out which sensor (top in the V, or side above the starter) is responsible for the code? See my previous comments about the confusion for which sensor is #1 or #2. To confirm which is which, I think you could temporarily unplug whichever sensor connector is easier to access, most likely the one on the side. Start the engine and you should get a new code for the sensor being disconnected. If sensor #1 was disconnected, I believe you'd get a new P0327 code. If sensor #2, you'd get P0322. That should at least confirm which sensor is causing trouble.
What about the mounting hardware for the sensor? Is it a bolt or a stud and nut? Take a look here, which shows a stud (9) and nut (10). Poking around online, I see some cars appear to have a bolt. If the stud/nut combination uses a self-locking nut, the torque value may be different than a simple bolt:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...5/brand/jaguar
Back to the sensor itself, I'm seeing different part numbers for the different locations. Based on the unclear numbering of the sensors, is it possible the wrong one is installed in the troublesome #2 position, whether that is top or side? I do not know the difference between the two sensors. Is the difference internal, or just the length of the harness?
Another thought, wondering what started all this. How long have you owned the car? Was this a new problem out of the blue after you'd been driving it for a while? Or did it begin shortly after some other work, such as replacing the water pump or AC compressor? Kind of a long shot, but what if the sensor is fine electrically and there is no wiring or sensor fault. But maybe the problem is something seemingly unrelated, such as a bad water pump? It's got a bad bearing that is causing a vibration that mimics an ignition knock, and the sensor is dutifully reporting this? The computer responds as programmed by retarding the ignition timing, yet the sensor keeps reporting a knock. The computer can only tell you what has been programmed, so it (incorrectly) deduces the sensor circuit is bad. So if nothing else makes any sense, it may be worth gambling on a new timing belt tensioner. That may change the way the vibration is occuring. FWIW.
Last edited by kr98664; Jun 26, 2025 at 02:15 PM.
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