Hey all been a while, and I hope all have been safe and sane during this "new normal".

Anyway, the other day my wife took my Jag, a 2005 S type, 3.0 yada yada.. and after a few trips and stops, parked it, and it wouldn't start. I got to the car some 3 hours later, and wouldn't you know it, it started right up. Ok, maybe a loose battery connection or some issue like that. So today, I took it out, did a few stops, and, surprise, it wouldn't start. 4 hours later, and nope, still didn't start. Got the error messages about the left/right blinker, and still, no start.

So, does this sound like a starter issue?

Questions first, then hopefully some answers. Per your title:

”Gets hot, then won’t start”

Please define both statements:

Does “gets hot” refer to reaching normal operating temperature, or do you mean the temperature gauge went to the right of center and/or other evidence of overheating?

What exactly happens when the engine “won’t start”? Does the starter engage normally and spin the crankshaft at normal speed? Maybe just a big clunk and no other response from the starters? If no response, At the base of the shift lever, make sure P or N is illuminated.

Don’t mean to be a pest, but these are some important details if we hope to steer you in the right direction.

I would suggest checking the charging system and battery condition, too. Before starting, you should see at least 12.6 volts. This is a very high prerequisite, well above what most cars require. Right after starting, you should see about 14.5 volts, settling around 13.5 after a few minutes.

Well, the "gets hot" is normal operating temps. The "won't start" means a near silent click, and nothing. Shift indicator a lighted P. The alarm/status LED is blinking at about 1 blink per second. Battery is at about 14.6 volts. And by no means are you being a pest, just trying to get the proper answers from someone that if told "replace A, shove into slot B" easily done. But to diagnose an issue.... "Uhhh... shiny thing?

Okay, one more question before I turn in for the evening. After trying to read somebody’s mind, I get very sleepy. I’ve even tried removing my tin foil hat to get a stronger signal, but it didn’t help.

Re: The blinking light? Is this blinking rate with the car locked or when you try to start the engine? Big difference in follow-up, so I want to get the details correct.

Here's how the light is supposed to behave if all is good and no faults are present:

First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every few seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault and the security system may have inhibited the starter.

How can the battery be at 14.6 volts? Did you mean 12.6V?

Shooting from the hip... I'd first look into the underhood relays. Maybe with heat soak there is too much resistance in one that gives current to the starter.

Maybe left the engine on, so it would be the alternator voltage.

Otherwise "surface charge" but if connected to the car I'm doubtful you could get as high as that.

About the last idea would be a useless meter.

Could the culprit be loose bolts where the shifter cable attaches to the transmission? This might explain the intermittent nature.

Still wouldn’t explain the seemingly unusual flashing of the PATS indicator. Still waiting for a response on that. (Hint! Hint!)