Hello Forum Members,
Two weeks ago I purchased this beautiful 2007 S type. This car looks and drives almost perfect. Not a Shopping cart ding anywhere. Beautiful interior, but it is 17 years old. Unlike another option that had details in the history, This one I could only judge by my eyes and driving experience. The Seller had just gone thru an ordeal with the Climate Control. The Dealer had to have the CC control module repaired and replace the heater valve. I sure there was more. The car has some fancy brand of machined alloys so it's pretty glitzy in the Jag sort of way. A California car so not a spot of rust. I just changed the engine oil. Tomorrow the Transmission service DIY and the Diff oil. As all cars with 17 years and 99 k miles there has been deferred maintenance. I feel a slight vibration on the steering wheel on bumpy roads. By bumpy I mead a regular small pattern. Looking at the tie rod ends to the steering rack, the rubber disintegrating. Could this be the source of steering wheel Jitters? The other issue to tackle soon is a coolant leak. It's quite slow and the engine runs smack in the center of the temp gauge. But I smell coolant and detect slight drops below the water pump. What's the failure mode of these water pumps. Little by little or full destruction. With unknown age of the hoses, belt and water pump. This will certainly be my get to know you project on this car. All the other suspension components see fine to me. Not a creak, squeak or knock when hitting bumps. I feel pretty confident it's in my scope to get this car in prime shape, Any pointers on the cooling system would be helpful. So far my plan is replace any hose that looks original or tired, maybe everything. Belt, Pulleys, thermostat and water pump.
Thanks,
Hirst

My other car is a 2014 MB GLK 250 Diesel. DIY service.
1973 Cessna 182 aircraft. I do most of the service on the aircraft. With license of course.

 

Nice looking S-type. Beware the temp gauge as it is controlled by the PCM and is "center weighted"; it only begins to move past center when the engine is getting close to over-heating.

 

Hope your using the correct fluids?
Are you aware of the procedure for changing the transmission oil?
These old cars are too expensive to own unless you can DIY the repairs. Sounds like you can?

Be sure and track down the manuals. They are kind of scattered around but in the S-Type forum at the top there are sticky threads with common information in them. We have had lot's of dead links too so you may find what you need but it's no longer available.
Post back if you need help. Please give ALL your car details including engine and miles on the car.
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Welcome to the forum.

Here's an excellent resource, with wiring diagrams, OBD codes, and even a service manual:

http://www.jagrepair.com/Default.htm


If the problem returns, please check out this troubleshooting guide:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/




I highly recommend a cooling system pressure tester. This is the doohickey that looks like a bicycle pump and attaches in place of the reservoir cap. You then manually pressurize the system (to the rating on the cap) with the engine off and look for leaks. Two big advantages over just running at idle:

1) At idle, the system is barely pressurized so smaller leaks are easy to miss.

2) No moving belts and pulleys, so much safer

As previously mentioned, the temperature indicator on the dash is deliberately misleading. From approximately 180 to 230F, the needle is centered. More details in the guide linked above. If you use a scanner to read live data, you can see the actual temp.

If you do need to replace the water pump, make sure the replacement is a correct match physically. On my '02 V6, I found most of the parts vendors (online and local) had an incorrect part listed. The mounting arms were slightly different and the bolts would not line up. Probably not a problem by '07, but do compare the new and old pumps side-by-side to save yourself some potential grief before installation.


Oh, an aircraft mechanic. They are the worst... (36 years myself)

 

Hello Forum Members, Thanks for all the great tips. I got a lot accomplished today with much climbing under the car. I did research the correct fluid for the trans and Diff.. On this form and elsewhere. Trans service took 6 liters. I drained about 6 and added the same amount. Added to top off at 40-45 deg C. it seemed to take the last liter when hot. I changed the Diff too. I believe the trans fluid have been changed. No! flakes or metal at all, and a small gray film on the magnets. Fluid was gray brown and not clear. I think the Diff had not been done. Really Grey and residue on the magnetic plug. I used the vacuum jar trick that a member posted with a metal tube to suck out the sludge. The car still drives great so no harm done. While on jack stands i moved a from wheel left and right. I detected a slight klunk. Very slight! Could this be tie rod end movement that give the steering wheel shake when the road is uneven? Turns out I do have a cooling system pressurizer that I got from an old mechanic. I'll take off the old radiator cap and fabricate a coolant tank cap with hose. Next project.
Thanks again for the helpful tips.
Hirst

 

Before condemning a tie rod end, first check the wheel bearings and ball joints. With the car still up on jack stands, shake the wheel with your hands and the 6:00 and 12:00 positions. If no slop or clunking is detected, the wheel bearings and ball joints are satisfactory. Next, move your hands to the 9:00 and 3:00 positions and try shaking the wheel. If only a tie rod end is bad (and nothing else has failed), you'll feel play when shaking the wheel side to side, but not top to bottom.

Another test of the tie rod end is to place a finger across the gap between the tie rod and steering knuckle. Shake the wheel side to side. Any play in the tie rod end will be evident.


Is this an older tester, designed to take the place of a standard 1/4 turn radiator cap with two ears? I have a tester like that, and a newer universal one that supposedly fits all types of radiator necks, including the threaded style seen on most newer vehicles. I hate the universal tester, as it is very finicky to get a good seal with the radiator neck. Several years ago, I purchased a Stant 12026 adapter. It threads in place of the cap on my car, and lets me use my trusty old tester instead:

 

Hello Forum members, I am tackling issues on my s type methodically. I hope. I ordered a new coolant expansion tank cap but that was not the solution. I ordered the adapter for the stant tester which fortunately I had. I got it a couple of days ago and began testing using 14-16 lbs. At first i just noticed some seeps at a couple of hose fittings. Second test i put the car on raps and removed all the lower covers. Now I can really see. So I've got a radiator leak and a leak at the thermostat housing. Looks like I'm going to do a full redo of the radiator, hoses, thermostat, belt and pulleys. The car is now driving very nice and not overheating, but this is a project not to but off too long. I did have one strange occurrence I can't enplane. On my final test I notice an orange puddle under the front passenger door. I believe it was coolant. I can understand any reason for a puddle there. Left hand drive US car. The firewall heater hoses and connections appeared dry. The cabin floor was dry. I did have the car on ramps. perhaps gravity too this fluid from somewhere else. From FCP Euro and other sources the part is Nissen. A Chinese made part. Are there other options available that are reasonable? The Nissen is $280 US. Are there options for thermostat temp range? any recommendations? BTW when driving or after now fluid at the passenger door.
Well at least I can do this for the price of parts alone! Thanks again for the tips and tricks from fellow posters.


Above , Thermostat housing leaking, view from the floor. Top photo, passenger side lower radiator. All components must me replaced.

 

Hirst,

When I picked up my S-type with 45K miles I replaced a lot of parts that were working well. It is a preventative action. I replaced the water pump, all belts and hoses, and that crappy expansion tank 3 times. (they crack easily). I also replaced the cam cover gaskets, and the VVT splash rings to keep the oil in the engine. I had a 4.0 V8. It was the easiest water pump change I've ever seen. I also replaced the belt tensioner also simple. That pump lasted 100K miles and I put a new one in last month and it was covered under warranty.

Suspension: Replaced front wheel hub assemblies. Replaced upper and lower control arm assemblies and brake calipers on all 4 wheels. I also replaced shock bushings and the sway bar bushings. (those are difficult) and connecting rods. The sway bar will pop when you hit a bump at an angle.

Extra tools: I think it is essential to have ramps as well as jacks and stands. I also have 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive extensions in 12 and 24 inch lengths plus a 30 inch in 1/2 size.

Finally, if you have original lug nuts, get rid of them. They are certified junk. You can order 1 piece lugs on Amazon. Chrome over steel. They will be 13/16 lugs instead of 3/4 inch. I've had a set for 10 years and never looked back. I think they were about $30 bucks. The correct wheel torque is 95 ft pnds.

Your car looks great. Enjoy it.