Originally Posted by NBCat

If the radiator fan is still running after the ignition has been turned off, it usually indicates a sticking or stuck thermostat. When the engine is cold, check the coolant level at the reservoir and top up with coolant meeting Jaguar specification.

What engine is fitted to the car?

Originally Posted by Paul792

Hi JaguarJacks
The electric fan is coming on. This will stay on for 5 minutes and turn itself off.

If you open the engine compartment when you stop the car you will see if this is the case. As the fans will be running. I believe it is a safeguard that they run on.

However, you need to check that your engine is not getting too hot. The temperature gauge is only a gauge and doesn't accurately give your engine temperature. So keep an eye on your gauge going over half way. Mine sits just under half on the gauge. I would not drive it if it goes over the half mark as you might overheat the engine.

Good luck
Paul

Originally Posted by NBCat

If the radiator fan is still running after the ignition has been turned off, it usually indicates a sticking or stuck thermostat. When the engine is cold, check the coolant level at the reservoir and top up with coolant meeting Jaguar specification.

What engine is fitted to the car?

Originally Posted by JagV8

Only seems to happen in extreme hot parts of the globe or when there's a fault - car is defending itself best it can.

Originally Posted by NBCat

Use a smart phone with Bluetooth connection and OBD reader such as Elm327 and Torque app to read engine temperature in 'real time'.

Do not depend on the instrument cluster gauge to indicate the engine temperature on the 3 litre unit. The gauge does not change its indication between 85 C and 129 C. At 129 C damage to the cylinder heads and or block may be the result.

Originally Posted by scottjh9

First off if you accidentally overfilled then it will spit it out the overflow tube...if that is not the case then get the car up in the air...either ramps or jackstands...use a radiator pump type pressurizer...take off the bottom plastic engine/radiator covers.... pressurize it up and start looking ..hoses...water pump and the dccv valve are common...it is the easiest way because you do it on a cold engine so you can get your hands in to move things a bit...and the plastic fill tank can get unseen hairline cracks...this method is how I found my leak after getting tired of burnt fingers...I know..... I was being a hard head by not using the cold pressure test from the get go

Originally Posted by kr98664

Yes.

If the DCCV is wet with coolant, then the DCCV has a leak.
If the water pump is wet with coolant, then the water pump has a leak.

All seriousness aside, as previously suggested, beg, borrow, or steal a cooling system pressure tester. Unless you've got a super obvious leak source, the tester is the way to go. It will build up much higher pressure than just idling the engine, making leaks much easier to find. It's safer to search with the engine off, as nothing will be moving.

When you do find the apparent source, be careful it's not actually spraying a tiny stream from elsewhere and misleading you. I've had this happen on several occasions. You'd swear the leak was at point A, but it was actually several inches away at point B. Don't let that throw you.

Originally Posted by NBCat

Did you follow the procedure in the Workshop Manual for bleeding the cooling system?