Lingering noise in the engine after ignition off
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Lingering noise in the engine after ignition off
What’s up fellow Jaggers !
My 2001 S-Type started having this loud running noise even after I shut the engine off ( for a few minutes )
the noise is coming from the engine area and it’s blowing air
Any suggestions ?
My 2001 S-Type started having this loud running noise even after I shut the engine off ( for a few minutes )
the noise is coming from the engine area and it’s blowing air
Any suggestions ?
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Queensland Australia
Hi JaguarJacks
The electric fan is coming on. This will stay on for 5 minutes and turn itself off.
If you open the engine compartment when you stop the car you will see if this is the case. As the fans will be running. I believe it is a safeguard that they run on.
However, you need to check that your engine is not getting too hot. The temperature gauge is only a gauge and doesn't accurately give your engine temperature. So keep an eye on your gauge going over half way. Mine sits just under half on the gauge. I would not drive it if it goes over the half mark as you might overheat the engine.
Good luck
Paul
The electric fan is coming on. This will stay on for 5 minutes and turn itself off.
If you open the engine compartment when you stop the car you will see if this is the case. As the fans will be running. I believe it is a safeguard that they run on.
However, you need to check that your engine is not getting too hot. The temperature gauge is only a gauge and doesn't accurately give your engine temperature. So keep an eye on your gauge going over half way. Mine sits just under half on the gauge. I would not drive it if it goes over the half mark as you might overheat the engine.
Good luck
Paul
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 6,068
Likes: 2,983
From: Newport Beach, California
What engine is fitted to the car?
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If the radiator fan is still running after the ignition has been turned off, it usually indicates a sticking or stuck thermostat. When the engine is cold, check the coolant level at the reservoir and top up with coolant meeting Jaguar specification.
What engine is fitted to the car?
What engine is fitted to the car?
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 63
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Hi JaguarJacks
The electric fan is coming on. This will stay on for 5 minutes and turn itself off.
If you open the engine compartment when you stop the car you will see if this is the case. As the fans will be running. I believe it is a safeguard that they run on.
However, you need to check that your engine is not getting too hot. The temperature gauge is only a gauge and doesn't accurately give your engine temperature. So keep an eye on your gauge going over half way. Mine sits just under half on the gauge. I would not drive it if it goes over the half mark as you might overheat the engine.
Good luck
Paul
The electric fan is coming on. This will stay on for 5 minutes and turn itself off.
If you open the engine compartment when you stop the car you will see if this is the case. As the fans will be running. I believe it is a safeguard that they run on.
However, you need to check that your engine is not getting too hot. The temperature gauge is only a gauge and doesn't accurately give your engine temperature. So keep an eye on your gauge going over half way. Mine sits just under half on the gauge. I would not drive it if it goes over the half mark as you might overheat the engine.
Good luck
Paul
thats exactly what it was
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Member
Joined: Jul 2018
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If the radiator fan is still running after the ignition has been turned off, it usually indicates a sticking or stuck thermostat. When the engine is cold, check the coolant level at the reservoir and top up with coolant meeting Jaguar specification.
What engine is fitted to the car?
What engine is fitted to the car?
just added some WaterWetter , and it’s all good !
thanks
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Newport Beach, California
Use a smart phone with Bluetooth connection and OBD reader such as Elm327 and Torque app to read engine temperature in 'real time'.
Do not depend on the instrument cluster gauge to indicate the engine temperature on the 3 litre unit. The gauge does not change its indication between 85 C and 129 C. At 129 C damage to the cylinder heads and or block may be the result.
Do not depend on the instrument cluster gauge to indicate the engine temperature on the 3 litre unit. The gauge does not change its indication between 85 C and 129 C. At 129 C damage to the cylinder heads and or block may be the result.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jul 2018
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Use a smart phone with Bluetooth connection and OBD reader such as Elm327 and Torque app to read engine temperature in 'real time'.
Do not depend on the instrument cluster gauge to indicate the engine temperature on the 3 litre unit. The gauge does not change its indication between 85 C and 129 C. At 129 C damage to the cylinder heads and or block may be the result.
Do not depend on the instrument cluster gauge to indicate the engine temperature on the 3 litre unit. The gauge does not change its indication between 85 C and 129 C. At 129 C damage to the cylinder heads and or block may be the result.
thanks for heads up , partner
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Joined: May 2018
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From: california
First off if you accidentally overfilled then it will spit it out the overflow tube...if that is not the case then get the car up in the air...either ramps or jackstands...use a radiator pump type pressurizer...take off the bottom plastic engine/radiator covers.... pressurize it up and start looking ..hoses...water pump and the dccv valve are common...it is the easiest way because you do it on a cold engine so you can get your hands in to move things a bit...and the plastic fill tank can get unseen hairline cracks...this method is how I found my leak after getting tired of burnt fingers...I know..... I was being a hard head by not using the cold pressure test from the get go
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First off if you accidentally overfilled then it will spit it out the overflow tube...if that is not the case then get the car up in the air...either ramps or jackstands...use a radiator pump type pressurizer...take off the bottom plastic engine/radiator covers.... pressurize it up and start looking ..hoses...water pump and the dccv valve are common...it is the easiest way because you do it on a cold engine so you can get your hands in to move things a bit...and the plastic fill tank can get unseen hairline cracks...this method is how I found my leak after getting tired of burnt fingers...I know..... I was being a hard head by not using the cold pressure test from the get go
Any simpler troubleshooting to know the difference ?
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From: Oregon
Yes.
If the DCCV is wet with coolant, then the DCCV has a leak.
All seriousness aside, as previously suggested, beg, borrow, or steal a cooling system pressure tester. Unless you've got a super obvious leak source, the tester is the way to go. It will build up much higher pressure than just idling the engine, making leaks much easier to find. It's safer to search with the engine off, as nothing will be moving.
When you do find the apparent source, be careful it's not actually spraying a tiny stream from elsewhere and misleading you. I've had this happen on several occasions. You'd swear the leak was at point A, but it was actually several inches away at point B. Don't let that throw you.
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Newport Beach, California
Where is 'over here'? Add your location to your profile.
Vehicle specifications are in Celsius and millimetres.
Vehicle specifications are in Celsius and millimetres.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jul 2018
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Yes.
If the DCCV is wet with coolant, then the DCCV has a leak.
If the water pump is wet with coolant, then the water pump has a leak.
All seriousness aside, as previously suggested, beg, borrow, or steal a cooling system pressure tester. Unless you've got a super obvious leak source, the tester is the way to go. It will build up much higher pressure than just idling the engine, making leaks much easier to find. It's safer to search with the engine off, as nothing will be moving.
When you do find the apparent source, be careful it's not actually spraying a tiny stream from elsewhere and misleading you. I've had this happen on several occasions. You'd swear the leak was at point A, but it was actually several inches away at point B. Don't let that throw you.
If the DCCV is wet with coolant, then the DCCV has a leak.
If the water pump is wet with coolant, then the water pump has a leak.
All seriousness aside, as previously suggested, beg, borrow, or steal a cooling system pressure tester. Unless you've got a super obvious leak source, the tester is the way to go. It will build up much higher pressure than just idling the engine, making leaks much easier to find. It's safer to search with the engine off, as nothing will be moving.
When you do find the apparent source, be careful it's not actually spraying a tiny stream from elsewhere and misleading you. I've had this happen on several occasions. You'd swear the leak was at point A, but it was actually several inches away at point B. Don't let that throw you.