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morning stalling at startup till warm then ok

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Old 01-12-2016, 04:40 PM
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Default morning stalling at startup till warm then ok

Hi again. Having problem with my 2000 S Type 3.0 stalling when I start up in the morning. Engine will start then stall out. After several trys and eng starts to warm up all is well and runs great. Will run great all day, will park for 12 hours at night then the problem. If after running for two hours and park at work for 8 hours it starts and runs fine. Problem starting in the morning. Some mornings after several starts I get a code 193 about the fuel rail sensor etc. First of all I cannot find the sensor( please help) and also another ideas.

Once again thanks
Nelson's baby JAG
 
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:24 PM
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There is no code 193. Tell us the actual code.

Look at OBD live data and check sensors for plausibility.

Next check fuel trims - see the many posts about this.
 
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Old 01-13-2016, 06:39 AM
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JAGV8
Checked my obd 2 book and code was PO193 FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR. Another thread had the same problem and said was this sensor. I need to know where it is on my 2000 s sype 3.0.
 
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:02 AM
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Get the free download workshop manual as it not only tells you that but the other causes of the code - it may not be the sensor.

It's worth watching fuel trims, as your era car is prone to air leaks and they can easily cause stalls.
 
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:58 PM
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I had something similar on my 2005 STR but my code was P0191. The fix was replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor.

The sensor has a vacuum line running to it from the manifold. On the V-8's it's on the drivers side towards the back of the engine. Also has an electrical plug on it.

They way I proved it was to hook up a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to my Schrader test port. The fuel pressure was all over the place. I had stalling and then no stalling. After hooking up the gauge I could see the fuel pressure jumping around.

See if this helps?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-power-77995/

I posted a diagram from the JTIS that shows where it's at too.

Do you have the JTIS? It's shown clearly in there.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:24 PM
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Thanks TBIRD6
still checking out the fuel rail pressure sensor but still cannot find it on my 2000 s type 3.0 and wonder if its under the intake manifold, no one has responded to where it is. JAG V8 thinks it vac leak and still checking however need to pull the intake to check. I ordered the JTIS manual and still having problem loading on my computer even after following the sticky info on the forum. Seems to be the same problem yu had with the 191 code even thou I get a 193. My v6 is not like your v8 0n the dia you posted. The sensor has to be somewhere. I saw it on E bay for $50 so I know what to look for. This is driving me nuts. Looks like may end up in the shop as I love the car. Thanks for you followup
 
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:33 PM
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This will help if its an air leak. If you are planning on removing the plenum, make sure to take heed to the bold print in the first paragraph in the link. Sorry I cannot remember where the fuel rail pressure control is located on the preface lift MY's.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52720/
 
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:38 PM
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where do I get the free workshop download manual? Having problems loading jtis disk
 
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:14 PM
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JAGV8
There is a code PO193 about the fuel rail on my 2000 S type 3.0. My OBD 2 shows the code. Also note that all my codes I get are POxxx, Im confused why you said 193 was not a code.. Maybe im useing the wrong code reader.
 
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Old 02-13-2016, 01:37 AM
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There are P, B, C, U codes as well as ones with no letter. You're just shooting yourself in the head leaving out the vital parts of a code.
 
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:29 AM
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Right there in the stickies -

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...archive-66031/

JTIS has all the details on how to troubleshoot and fix the P0193 code - just do a Global search for P0193 for your car model.

P0190, P0192, P0193

CHECK THE FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE

"Switch the ignition to the OFF position.Disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor electrical connector IL2.Switch the ignition to the RUN position.Measure the supply voltage to the fuel rail pressure sensor electrical connector IL2 pin 1, (YG) and ground.Is the supply voltage between 4.5 and 5.5 volts?..."
 
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
There are P, B, C, U codes as well as ones with no letter. You're just shooting yourself in the head leaving out the vital parts of a code.
JagV8
shot myself in the head several times but to stupid to lie down and die. Maybe time to get a new mech or take it to the dealer. Ive pulled several posts and provided info to mech. Now pulling a 303 code as well as 193. still feels like a misfire. all vac lines with no leaks. Fuel pump pressure ok, fuel trims ok. also have a 455 code. looks like fuel rail, misfire on #3 cly and perhaps gas cap. Only vac line not checked is the elbow under the manifold. may have mech pull intake and do coils and plugs on the hard to get at side as do not know when they were changed. Still hard to start,stumbles then smooths out when warn but feel a miss while driving at all speeds. God I love this car but drives me nuts. I know the dealer will find and fix as it seems not to be a major problem. Thanks for your replies. I notice you spen a lot of time helping DIY wrenches.
 
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nelsonht
J Only vac line not checked is the elbow under the manifold.
Its the most notorious vacuum leak on the preface lift MY's.
 
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
Its the most notorious vacuum leak on the preface lift MY's.
Thanks JOYCESJAG, sure sounds like its a gremlin from all the posts I have looked at and believe I read a lot of them trying to square away my baby. Dropping her off Monday AM and will have this vac elbow replaced along with plugs and coils. Even if not the problem with 70000 miles its already due, plus the fact #3 is misfiring and have to pull the manifold anyway. Just spent $1500 on front suspension, $350 on a cat and $450 trying to correct present problem. God I love this car. Going to have to bite the bullet after this try and take her to the DEALER. HATE TO THINK OF THAT!!!! Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:03 AM
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Please follow what sjgh posted. You have a simple problem that you don't want to fix. There is no magic reply. Get the shop manual and dig into it.

Other wise keep spending large amounts of money on a car that is worth nothing. I fixed my fuel pressure sensor problem for the cost of the sensor. That's as cheap as it gets!
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Please follow what sjgh posted. You have a simple problem that you don't want to fix. There is no magic reply. Get the shop manual and dig into it.

Other wise keep spending large amounts of money on a car that is worth nothing. I fixed my fuel pressure sensor problem for the cost of the sensor. That's as cheap as it gets!
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checked what sigh posted. I tried several times to download jtis as per sticky instructions and could not. Purchased 2 jag s type 2000 3.0 repair cds and have the info. My mech checked twice to correct. Found fuel trims ok, found no vac leaks and fuel pump and filter ok. Still starts hard now with code po 303 showing #3 misfire. Posts say to check vac elbow behind manifold. Have to pull manifold to correct Cly #3 so will check elbow then. For you to say that "i have a simple problem that I do not want to fix' blows my mind. Thanks for your insight.
 
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nelsonht
checked what sigh posted. I tried several times to download jtis as per sticky instructions and could not. Purchased 2 jag s type 2000 3.0 repair cds and have the info. My mech checked twice to correct. Found fuel trims ok, found no vac leaks and fuel pump and filter ok. Still starts hard now with code po 303 showing #3 misfire. Posts say to check vac elbow behind manifold. Have to pull manifold to correct Cly #3 so will check elbow then. For you to say that "i have a simple problem that I do not want to fix' blows my mind. Thanks for your insight.
Um... Change coil #3
 
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:54 AM
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Just one coil would not really explain hard starting. Next I'd check sensors e.g. ECT, IAT since decent readings matter.
 
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
Just one coil would not really explain hard starting. Next I'd check sensors e.g. ECT, IAT since decent readings matter.
JagV8
I agree however do you feel that nasty vac elbow under and behind the manifold could be the problem. One cly miss no problem.
 
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