Car had been sitting for a while in the garage. The battery died, as batteries are apt to do. I attempted to jumpstart the car and have had problems ever since. I disconnected the battery and charged it for several days. When I reconnected the battery, the car acted like the alarm ahd been activated, but the horn was not sounding. The key fob no longer works with the car. I opened the car using the key and cranked it. The brakes were locked up and refused to release. The lights were on and would not turn off. The turn indicators flashed as well. The engine was not in limp mode. My wife was frustrated and had me move the car into the driveway where it sat for several days before I could get a day off to work on it. I drove the car back into the garage today (overpowering the parking brake). I pulled and tested every fuse. They all were good. Now, the car is in limp mode and is giving me a series of faults, DSC among them. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should go from here. I am not looking to take the car to the dealer as I would have to pay for the tow as well as pay for what will most surely be costly repairs. My wife just wants the car running again so that she can sell it.

 

Does the 'charged' battery actually have a full charge?

 

You have the classic symptoms of a dying battery. These S-Types consume battery power like salted peanuts and must have a strong battery in order to properly function. Low battery voltage causes many different issues. Recharging an old battery is often insufficient to enable the battery to provide enough power to these cars....

 

I took the battery out today and took it to be tested. Although it was not completely dead, I replaced it. I can now crank the car without setting off the alarm, but little else has changed. I still get the "DSC not available" fault and the car is stuck in limp mode. The park brakes are still locked on and the key fob does not lock/unlock the car. I put a new battery in the fob and it had no effect.

Some of these faults did not appear until I pulled out each fuse individually to test them. I made certain that each is back in its appropriate slot. All fuses tested good.

 

Good so far. Now, don't let it get flat which will mean recharging it any time you've cranked more than a tiny bit.

Need car details:

 

The car is a 2003 S-type R w/ 147,000 miles on it.

I was reading an exchange in regards to another post in which the person asking for assistance was berated for not knowing the error codes from his computer. Because of this (and to avoid looking like a moron) I bought an OBD 2 reader, but despite my best contortionist efforts have not been able to locate the port to plug it into the car. Also the owners manual does not reference it. If someone could tell me where to find it, I will gladly post a list of error codes as well. I printed out the list of them yesterday and was shocked to find that it encompassed 20 pages. Makes me nostalgic for the days of simple machines.

 

Near your shin.

 

The right one.

 

Not sure where you are getting the codes from but this list is for your car.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tos/P20003.PDF

I hope it helps.

 

It's also in the stickies on here and in JTIS.

(OBD is left shin over here.)

 

By US law all OBDII ports must be within 3' of the steering column. As was posted above it's to the right of the steering column on LHD cars. Just get on your back under the steering wheel and with a flash light (Sorry torch!) you will see it.

A bit tough to see without a flash light. But I can now find it in the dark and plug my cable in too!
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Almost threw my back out twisting into the floor, but I found it. Thanks. The list of codes that came up were (in the order that they displayed on the reader) P0171, P0174, P0105, P0327, P1251, P1111, P1251 (displayed twice).

From looking at the chart referred to earlier, I think that I might have a MAP sensor issue. I was reading another string on this forum where the author stated that simply cleaning the spring cured his issues. Has anyone else experienced anything similar?

 

With so many I'd clear them and see which come back and how soon. MAF has no spring. Be very careful how you clean it as it's delicate and a high precision part. I'd avoid that and just clear the codes for now.

 

Yes! For sure clear everything and see what comes back.
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P1251 & P1000 are the only faults to reappear.

Before I continue with my list of lights & error messages, let me tell what I've done since my last entry.
1. I cleared all of the codes from the computer.
2, I left the car sit overnight with the battery disconnected in hopes that this might help clear any unseen errors and/or memories.
3. I cranked the car and let it idle (since it won't do much above idle, max revs are 1500 rpm) until the car reached operating temperature range.
4. I shut the car completely off and checked the computer for error codes. The reader listed P1251, P1000 (P1251 again) and then said "No Supp".

Other things that might/might not be relevant:
1. The horn will not sound
2. The display for the radio says that the ignition isn't on even when the engine is running.
3. Front & rear fog lamps are on and will not turn off.
4. Oil pressure, check engine & traction control lights are on.
5. Display shows "ENG SYSTEM FAULT" & "DSC not available".
6. Park brakes are still locked up regardless of what I do.

I think that the engine not revving is tied to the P1251, but the rest baffle me.

 

That P1251 is an odd code?

Have a look here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...51-code-44082/

But with all your other problems it still looks like a battery problem even though you have replaced it.

Can you measure the resting and cranking voltages?
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P1000 is normal after battery off until the OBD monitors run OK. Er, yours may not manage to do that which would be bad because then a bunch of further errors cannot even be reported (car can't figure stuff out). Let's hope this doesn't happen / doesn't matter.

P1251 is about a relay fault. The relay is for the throttle motor.

It is described in the codes PDF free in the stickies, also inside JTIS, again free on here.

All your other troubles point to bad power, which could be bad ground, bad wiring (12V) or of course bad battery. Normally it's the battery.

Resting voltage means after at least an hour with all power off. Next morning is a good time. Wants to be 12.6V or thereabouts.

Cranking voltage needs a 2nd person
Needs to stay as high as possible but don't be surprised that it will be a bit below the 12.6.

Measure at the battery terminals.

If both are good, I think you're looking for a wiring fault. But, maybe a relay fault and best to start with all fuses and all relays as easy and free to check. Just needs some time.

Nothing at all makes this look like "just" a MAP sensor. It's probably fine.

 

I disconnected the battery and pulled each fuse individually. I tested each with an ohmmeter and returned the fuse to its appropriate place when it tested good (which they all did). I double checked the fuse panel layout diagram and made certain that there weren't any fuses missing and that each fuse was the appropriate amperage. All fuses were present & the correct ones for their slot.

Unfortunately, I am not able to test the battery fully until my wife returns home Saturday, but I will post those results as soon as I can.

 

Off the subject a bit but with 147K miles on your STR you are in the high end mileage wise.

Have you replaced the hose under the super charger?
We had a burst of them letting go and I was going to replace mine just because.

But it's a lot of work even though I do have all the gaskets and seals. So I am at 96K miles and have replaced almost all the other coolant hoses. I have had three separate hose spring leaks in the past.
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It has been a while since I've been able to get on here and I sincerely apologize to those who have been valiantly attempting to help me with my issues.

I did finally get some help in testing the battery. Please understand that new batteries are notorious for having less-than-ideal voltages as they often rely on the charging system of the car to top them off. As the battery came new, once connected to the car; it read 12.85 volts. When cranking, the voltage dropped to 11.28 volts. The car cranked almost instantly, despite what I thought was a slightly low voltage.

I have disconnected the battery and put it on a slow trickle charge. I will retest the battery when I return from Christmas vacation and will post those tests should they vary dramatically from the rests I posted above.