So I am a brand new owner of my first Jaguar, a 2000 S-Type 4.0 that I "believe" I practically stole from a dealer who was closing up shop.

I did not go into the Jag lightly as I have lurked this site for a few weeks and learned of the myriad of problems that plague the 2000-2002 model years. That being said and with the following info I would love opinions on how well (or poor) my "deal" was along with feedback on where to start with some work.

The Jag is a 2000 S-Type 4.0 in silver with black leather interior and 109k miles. The dealer originally wanted (but knew he would never get) 4900 for the car.

The car WAS a one owner until 2012 when it was in minor accident according to carfax and then in the span of 3 months was sold to 4 different dealers/wholesalers.

I was able to take the car to my own personal and very trusted mechanic (I am pretty mechanical myself) and we saw no frame damage (any cosmetic was fixed obviously) but did note the following issues:

1. Balljoints are pretty shot. Not dangerously close to wheel falling off shot, but bad. Whole assembly looks to need replacing.

2. Dealer claimed exhaust manifold gasket leak... nu uh... cracked manifold. Not a whole lot more money but nonetheless.

3. The only sign of the wreck we really find is some light cracking in the front of the dashboard by the windshield.

4. The shifter is a little touchy. The dealer said when they got it the linkage was in need of repair and they fixed it. It shifts fine but when going from park to drive, I notice that it takes a second or two and occasionally I need to drop it over to 3rd to get it to engage. Once engaged it works fine. We drove it 50 miles home, 20 in stop and go traffic and no issues. More adjustment perhaps?

5. No body damage shows over than a very light scrape and a very thin indentation/warp on the right/pass front wheel well. I looked over the car meticulously and almost missed it.

6. The S-Type badge is missing... where to get a replacement?

7. All electronics work, went over them for almost an hour (dealer was probably thinking I am crazy). AC works great.

8. A little wear on drivers seat, some cracking but no rips at all. Rest of interior is near mint.

9. Tires look almost new, no curb rash on wheels.

10. Aside from the passenger wheel well, not a scratch on her and paint looks awesome. No issues.

All told as is, drive it home I got the Jag for 2100. Dealer swears he paid 3200 from a wholesaler.

I figure 500 for ball joints and another 300 for manifold with labor. What else should I be checking ASAP that I may have missed or that I should keep an eye on?

I love the look of the jaguar and it will be a garage queen much more than a daily driver so time is on my side. I know this model year is notoriously unreliable, so knowing what I could do in advance to keep her running good would be most appreciated.

I will get some pictures up as soon as I clean her up a bit and it stop raining.

Thanks!

 

I would try to make sure that the cam-chain tensioners have been replaced.

There were two design problems with the 4.0, the tensioners wore out and the cylinder liners deteriorated due to additives in gasoline.

Search the list for posting about both these problems for more info.
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

The cracked panel is fairly common and may not be crash related.

+1 on the tensioners.

 

Jaguar
^^^S type letters, badges etc.

 

I was thinking likewise but would've said "highly unlikely" that it's crash-related

+2 on tensioners and get the latest water pump impeller. I'm not real familiar with it but brush up on the xmsn park pall issue....make sure you set the park brake on hills so you can get it out of Park when you want to drive away!

 

+another on tensioners

Welcome, sounds a good buy.

I'd not worry too much about fuel/Nikasil, it's an old story now and the car has survived, clearly.

Trans - might be cable, might be low on fluid. Nice cheap fluid Dexron III, common trans, Ford 5R55N.

Grab the Vehicle Spec file from stickies, also JTIS & JEPC once you can (need a few more posts).

I'd check fuel trims (LTFT per bank) to make sure it's running right - i.e. within a few percent of zero.

Badges are in wreckers, on ebay, etc. Ditto wheel centre caps if you need any.

Check state of wheel lug nuts and replace as they can be chewed up / broken...

Treat engine bay plastics & hoses with care as they get old and fragile

Take care battery is good as modern computerised cars need that.

Aha - check boot (trunk) lock works (keyhole below letter U of JAGUAR). With a flat battery you want it to work!

Have you got at least 2 keys that work all locks & start the engine...

 

Speaking of rain and boots, look in the spare wheel well for water when you next check it out.

 

- I will definitely tensioners as that is completely new to me.

- I took a look at oil and trans fluid for color but did not get levels properly so I will do that tonight for sure!

- The car dash shows no check engine/service lights but I have an ODB-2 scanner that I will throw on it for stored codes.

- I did notice last night that my son was able to open the trunk without the key! I did not think much about it but it was late so I will look more into that tonight. Is that normal?

- I have both keys and fobs. They look strange so I am guessing those are harder/impossible to reproduce?

 

> I will definitely tensioners as that is completely new to me.

Does anybody know how to check to see if the cam-chain tensioners have been changed? Do you take a cam cover off and see if the sprockets are metal rather than plastic?

Not that I have to worry about that... ;-)
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

There's a button on the trunk (& another in the car) but won't function if battery flat.

Checking trans oil - needs done properly (engine running etc). Details on some other threads. No dipstick

2 keys should be enough...

 

Not impossible, only expensive, the programing can only be done by the dealer or a few specialised locksmiths or independents with the right equipment.

 

Re: chain tensioners, found this:

Jaguar V8 Secondary Tensioners - Preventive Replacement
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

I notice that it takes a second or two and occasionally I need to drop it over to 3rd to get it to engage.

My 02 does the same thing... I'm assuming that the tensioners might need to be replaced for both of us. Even thou the article only talks about 97-00.

 

Yes. 2003 and up is when Jaguar finally got all the bugs worked out of the tensioner system.
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Heavens I don't know why they say only to 2000 as even here it would be later. Maybe is related to when they wrote the article.

There were 2 kinds of plastic-bodied tensioners - and both are less than great.

I think there's a thread with pics on jag-lovers, too. (And on here by tdc?)

 

You guys have me scared now!

I have no idea but assume i have plastic tensioners. A few questions.

Can anyone provide an estimate of the work at a dealer?
Has anyone had a non jag dealer do the service?
Would a Ford dealer do the work?
How much is the kit itself?

Thank you!

 

This is a well known problem and we have numerous threads with prices, part numbers, instructions and results. Some people only do the easy secondary ones that can be replaced with only removing the cam covers. This is very short sighted as all the plastic ones will fail, it's just a matter of time.

Now the good thing is your car is old and still running so maybe, just maybe they have already been changed?

Just don't delay in at least looking at them. The valves will hit the pistons and that will be the end of your motor.

Finally you need to understand the only way you can afford a Jaguar, especially a used Jaguar is to DIY the repairs. Changing all the tensioners at a dealer will be in the 10-12 hour range plus the parts. At least a multi-thousand dollar repair!

We have several people active on the list that have changed them. Listen to these guys!! Look for Abonano, he has over 200K on his early S-Type and did the repair himself. Impressive!

Since you won't do the simple thing and search. Here is a list of search results that you should read completely!! All of them!!

Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum - Search Results
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Hey

If you replace the Battery .... make sure you have the Radio code ... as the radio wont work without it ... I found out the hard way lol.

Regards
BanHugs

 

Code not needed for USA (unless wrongly set up).

 

If it's raining, I'd leave it out in the rain and check for leaks inside the trunk and rear passenger compartment floors. There are many threads in the Forum on causes of and fixes for both issues.

Good luck and welcome!
Steve