I am getting no audio from my 2003 S type.

My car is equipped with touchscreen navigation, Jaguar voice command, factory cell phone and JaguarNet.

The displays on the touch screen seem work fine and the audio bar moves left and right when I operate the volume controls but I get no sound output in any mode including radio CD, Navigation etc. Not a peep, pop, or click. Nothing.

The voice command functions appears to not work at all anymore. When I press the voice button on the steering wheel it's just toggles the mute function on the display. Also, the system no longer recognizes that the cell phone is installed. The JaguarNet screen does not appear on bootup and when I press the phone button on the console the screen simply says PHONE NOT FITTED.

My gut feeling is that the cell phone module is causing the problem and is muting the audio but I'm not certain.

I had this problem about eight or nine years ago when my car was still under warranty. At that time they replaced the stereo unit and found that did not solve the problem. They told me they had to replace the cell phone module to fix the problem.

As the car is no longer under warranty I don't really want to pay what they would probably charge to fix this again. Does anyone know the location of this cell phone module? I tried unplugging the connector that is under the console but that did not have any effect. I have also read through the archives and noticed that other people seem to have had a similar problem, but I have not read any definitive resolution to this problem.

Any ideas?

 

I'm still struggling with this problem but after further review, I suspect that the fiber optic network is dead. Here's what I am seeing:


1. No audio output from any source.


2. System does not recognize that phone is installed (Says PHONE NOT FITTED)


3. System does not recognize that CD Changer is installed. (When I press CDC, nothing happens)

4. System does not recognize that Jaguar Voice Command is installed.

5. I unplugged the fiber optic connectors at the CD changer in the trunk. I think I should see the red light at the fiber end. Is that correct? I see nothing.


Can anyone tell me what unit or module controls the fiber optic? Or any other ideas?


Thanks!

 

It's all in JTIS, free download.

 

Thanks, but I have the FSM I've been through it but can't really seem to find what I'm looking for except "If the cause is not visually evident, verify the symptom and refer to the Jaguar Approved Diagnostic System."


I was hoping somebody on here would be able to point me in the right direction.

 

See its Electrical Guide.

 

Thanks. The electrical guide is useful as it provides a print of the D2B network. Mine is the 6-node network.


Even more useful is the Service Training Course MXAD Multiplex Advanced Diagnostics:


http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai.../MXAD_2002.pdf


I think I have located the cellular phone module and the voice activation control module (VACM). They both seem to be located behind a metal panel that is behind the stack of CDR, nav unit, and power amp. It looks like these will have to come out for me to access the phone module and the ACM. I haven’t done that yet, but I think I will try.


From what I can determine, it seems that my D2B Network is not functioning. Since it is a ring bus, my understanding is if any module in the ring fails the entire bus will go down.


My plan is to check each module individually looking for some visible light on the optical fiber and bypassing any suspected failed module. Of course, the FSM recommends using the D2B Optical Bus Tester tool #415-S003. I do not have this tool, but it seems logical to me that I could jumper out a failed module if I had a fiber loop with the proper connection plugs.


Has anyone ever tried this method? Does anyone know where I could purchase a fiber cable loop with the correct plug?


Will the system work with a module bypassed?


Also, does anyone know if it is possible to read the D2B network DTC's without a WDS or other proprietary tool?


I can read the DTCs on the touch screen using the 917 PIN. Doing that shows no DTCs, but I think those DTCs are for the NAV system only. Is that correct?


Any advice is appreciated. Thanks,

 

Unless the fiber optic ring has every last option installed you should have a fiber optic loop or jumper already installed?

When I installed my ACM I had to remove the fiber optic jumper and add the ACM fiber connection. Maybe someone on the list has a spare?

I don't remember what happened to the one I removed when the ACM was put in.
.
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Thanks for the ideas. As it turns out, my S-Type is equipped with every available option on the D2B Network, so it's a full 6-node ring with no installed jumpers. The good news is that I just bought a loop jumper on eBay for $12. It should be here on Friday. Hopefully I'll get to play with it this weekend.

 

Hello Greg; I regret I wasn't aware of your post until now. You are certainly on the right track and with the correct understanding of the multi-node ring bus architecture. You have checked all fuses (and grounds) for all network nodes? Some feed via fuses in the Rear Distribution Box, while the Audio head unit feeds via fuse in the Junction box located inside cabin. Beyond this, and the rudimentary graphics of the D2B bus options, to the best of my knowledge and investigation . . . JTIS does NOT contain the answers you seek. Certainly, I have never found them, so I long ago noted this area as one of few, and unfortunate, omissions.

If any one of the D2B nodes goes down - or more likely, any connector on any node goes down - then the whole system goes down. First check and tag each cable connector to ensure it is returned to its correct node socket. Then, a simple pass through piggy-back will allow you to remove both cables and reconnect end to end - bypassing the node device. I start by bypassing the SatNav and CDC (usually both at once, but be doubly careful to correctly tag connectors) since this stack must come out to get to the others behind. There are of course, three potential problems with this approach . . .

• the system may throw up errors from unconnected devices, but at least it will spring to life when you have isolated the faulty node;
• in every case bar one (maybe 8-10 cases) the problem was found in loose or faulty connections; and in that one case . . .
• if the head unit itself is stuffed, you can't isolate or bypass it and still expect the audio system to work.

The upside is that with everything isolated except for the audio head unit and (if fitted) the Premium power amp, no audio points to failure of one or both of those modules. In that one case, we then isolated the Premium power amp, but monitored the line level audio inputs (output from head unit). These were absent, so we diagnosed the problem within the head unit. Replacement proved this to be the correct diagnosis.

Hope this helps Greg; and please post back to advise results.

Best wishes,
Ken

 

Thanks for the tips cat_as_trophy. It's very helpful to hear from someone who has worked this problem before. I'm now thinking that the problem lies in the head unit.


Here's what I have done:


1. I verified power and ground to each module: all good


2. Using a fiber optic loop plug connector, I bypassed one module at a time and retested. Still no audio.


3. I connected the D2B connector feed from the head unit directly to the premium power amp, effectively bypassing all other devices, creating a 2-node ring. Still no audio.


4. Each time, I also ran the network test: (press AM/FM + Eject, then Mix+Eject multiple times), In each case it only displayed "Main 996"


5. I had my son perform the network test while I peered into the end of the cable from the head unit. It's all dark. is it true that I should be able to see blinking light on one of the fibers? I did not. In fact I did not see any blinky light from any cable.


One question for cat_as_trophy: You mentioned that you tested the line level audio outputs from the head unit. I didn't even know there was a line out. Can you give me some idea of where I can test that?


I think I can buy a used head unit on ebay for about $100. I think I may go in that direction. Is there anything else I should check before I do that?


Finally, does anyone know of a good set of instructions for removal of the head unit?


Thanks!

 

Hi Greg,

You have done the entire routine that I was describing . . . but in numbered steps that are much tidier and easier to follow. I was with you right down through steps 1-4, by which time you arrive at a fully tested 2 node setup.

WARNING! . . . Please don't go to step 5 . . . NEVER look into a fibre optic cable. Sorry this sounds all headmaster-ish, but we only come supplied with two eyes, and this is the number one sure fire way to lose one or both. The acceptable technique is to direct the end (and therefore any light output) onto a clear sheet of white card in subdued light (inside garage with lights out?). Observe reflection off the card; not the direct beam.

Keep in mind that, viewed from head unit, an internal fibre optic "transmitter" emits a data stream of pulsed light . . . that each successive node accepts, samples, and re-transmits this light stream; such that it returns ultimately to the head unit via its separate fibre optic "receiver" for error checking to verify bus integrity. This means only one head unit cable will pulse light . . . and even that may do so only briefly until the fault is detected and acted upon; then it's lights out!

Q: What fault can there be in only a 1 or 2 node jumpered setup?
A: The one you have created by disconnecting to observe the pulse light!

So far, you have replicated what we did in that sole pesky case, which ended just beyond where you are now. Let's jump ahead to removing the head unit, as that's what we did next using JTIS. I say this because I feel certain this is where you have located the problem. Rare, but not unknown, as per my experience. Use JTIS, but also search here using "head unit" because I recall some excellent write-ups of after market replacements. I recall it as being "fiddly" but no big deal, and if I recall, no special tools. We tend to use lots of professional masking tape applied to trims, panels, even tools to avoid scuffs and scratches.

Short answer to "line outputs" . . . they are not external outputs, but internal feeding the drive to the photo-transistor which modulates the LED to produce the pulsed light source which is injected into the fibre optic cable. While I have my notes as guide, you would need a sampling oscilloscope with storage to monitor these circuits (not likely) and its only benefit is to circumvent the potential fault shutdown generated in my Q&A above. Provided you have observed the reflected output of the "transmit" cable during switch on to at least the igniton swith position that supplies power to the head unit. and you confirm that no light is emitted on either cable . . . then the head unit is the source of your fault.

I hope this helps Greg. Price of $100 for a replacement head unit sounds (no pun) surprisingly modest.

Ken