Hi everyone, I have a 2003 S-type 3.0, at the moment has a no start condition. The engine does fire up if I spray carb cleaner in the throttle body. I put a new fuel pump & filter, the filter was a little dirty but basically no major change in fuel pressur, 40-45 psi when it primes, & goes down to 35-38 while cranking. From my search on the forum, spec. is 30 to 50 psi, is this correct? I'm thinking that the ECU is not sending ground signal to fuel injectors, they have the 12v constant power, so the relay & fuse are ok. A little history, I've been working on this car off & on for quite awhile it's had a no start before & I take a break for a week or two & come back it starts up, runs for an hour or 2 then starts missing like it's running out of gas then back to crank but no start. About 4 months before all this started it had a bad injector so I relaced all the injectors & it ran fine. After that the battery seamed week so I replaced it, not long after that the engine starting running rough & it just got worse until it wouldn't start anymore. The REM has given me the following codes: B1676 battery voltage out of range (I believe it's from draining battery while cranking the engine). & code U1041, vehicle speed not obtained.
When the engine is running the ECU has given the following codes: P0353, P0355, P1000 & P1367. Funny thing is about 2 weeks ago it started up & running rough because of the to coils causing misfire, & all of a sudden the misfire was gone & engine was running smooth as could be. Ran smooth for about 15min then engine started to run rough like it was starving for gas til it turned off & wouldn't turn on again.
Here's what I have replaced so far: ECU module, REM module, Crank sensor, Fuel pump & Fuel filter. I've checked the power supply & ground to the REM in the trunk, & also the ECU power & ground. Also checked wires from crank sensor to ECU (resistance under 5 ohms & no short to ground or battery power. I'm running out of ideas, was thinking maybe fuel pressure regulator to try to get a little bit better pressure. But unless I have the wrong specs for my car, it seems ok.
sorry for the long post, but hopefully someone can point out something I overlooked. Thank you in advance for any help given.

 

Use the Torque app with a smart phone to read the fuel pressure through the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface. Fuel pressure should be around 3 bar (330 kPa) whilst the starter is engaged.

 

By ECU do you mean the PCM (which Jaguar tends to call ECM)?

If so, how did you reprogram things?

 

Are you talking the main computer to control the engine and transmission? IIRC, isn't that programmed with a specific VIN? In other words, if a new (never programmed) module is installed, it must be set up for that VIN. If a used unit is installed, it will already have been programmed for a different VIN and the security system will reject it, so to speak. I think once a module is programmed with a VIN, that parameter cannot be changed.

I'm a bit fuzzy on the details, so hopefully somebody more in the know can chime in. What is the security system indicator doing? Does it flash any codes?

 

I'm getting from 228 to 250 kPa while cranking

 

yes I meant ECM main computer, I programed with Launch scanner. It was a used ECM & seems to have written the correct VIN number because it shows my cars VIN on the scanner

 

How did you make sure it was exactly the right kind of PCM?

 

It has the same part number.

 

Hello,
I always thought that the ECM could only be described via WDS or IDS and only if it had not been described before. Other than that, I have only read about attempts, but nothing about a completed new description of another ECM. Did you do it yourself or a company? I would like to know more details.
Does it still start when carburetor cleaner is added? As the engine runs smoothly in between (according to the first post), it sounds more like a loose connection. P0353, P0355 and P1367 indicate ignition problems. I would replace the ignition coils on banks 1 and 2. Do the errors move with them?
Regards, Willi

 

Why did you replace the PCM?

Then, depending on the above:

Would you be able to put the original back in?

If you do, what P codes do you get?

 

VID block cars can be very difficult to change modules.

 

Reading more I'm not sure if all data was transfered to the replacement ECM, the scanner does read the correct VIN but I don't recall programing anything else when first installed the ECM. The thing is that the car ran fine for about an hour then turned off & only starts spraying carb cleaner & turns off when carb cleaner runs out. I would do the coil switch but haven't been able to get it running again

 

I think I'll do like you suggest & put the old PCM back on &see what it does

 

after reading the pdf you attached, I'm going to install the original ECM to see what it does

 

Update; I got the car running, I left the hood up & somehow water got in the sparkplug well. I took the coils off & blew them dry with air then removed the plugs cleaned & dried them (engine was flooded from trying to start & carb cleaner I put into the intake. It's running well but I'm getting a p0603 code right away, I never did put the original ECM back in the car, so I'm wondering if that code could be because of what people are saying in previous post about not being able to replace Ecm with a used one, like I did? Cars running so good, I didn't want to risk switching ECM back again. Thanks for everyone's help!

 

Hello,
great that your engine is running again. How did you get it to start? Just by removing water?
I'm sure many others will be interested in this: Which model of Lauch scanner did you use to describe the ECM? That would help if you have to replace an ECU if you knew exactly which test device to use. That would be a real problem solver (just for me? ).
Greetings, Willi

 

Seriously P0603, that's not a typo?

Never seen it, but I think it would mean things like fuel trims won't be kept once learned and maybe monitors won't stay set as they should. Maybe will just run OL (open loop)?

 

hello, yes I got it running by cleaning the water out & also removed & cleaned the electrodes, because the engine was flooded from trying to start unsuccessfully.
. The equipment I used was a "Diagzone Pro" v2.00.027. When I first hooked up the scanner with the used replacement ECM the scanner caught the mismatched VIN number & it asked me to input the correct VIN. After that went into special functions & set up the key transponder. I didn't have the spare key available at the time so I bought a new transponder chip, because you have to have 2 keys to be able to program (can't program just one key). I programed the only key that I had & when the scanner asked to insert the second key, I turned off & removed the first key, wrapped it in aluminum foil, taped the chip that I bought to the steering column reinserted the first(only) key wrapped in the foil so it won't pick up the transponder in te key, turned to on position & proceeded & finished the key programming. Like I said on previous post the engine is running great but I am getting that p0603 code, so I'm going to try a hard reset & make sure I don't have any loose power or groung connections to see if I can get rid of that p0603 code. I'll post an update after I do that , to let you know how it went
Thanks,
Mario

 

Hi, it is running in closed loop, what I have noticed that STFT is running rich, 18% to 21% (at times) & LTFT is trying to compensate at about -18% to -20%

 

Could be worth looking at the Workshop manual as it may have tests for P0603.