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Okay folks, here goes. It was free so sticking a lot of money into it isnt high on my list. Engine cranks, but will not start. Red light on the center of the dash is blinking when the key is in the run position after cranking the engine. No power to the fuel pump. Power is at the fuel cut off switch behind the drivers side kick panel. The gear shift indicator lights(park, reverse, neutral, etc are not lit in red when it is in that gear). The lights came on when the car did start.
All of the fuses(that I can find) are good and the relays all test fine. Battery is fully charged. The check engine light was not on when the car was running and there are no error codes in the system.
The car did start for me twice and ran fine, but it seemed like it had no power. I suspect the valet key might have something to do with that. There is 118,565 miles on the clock. From the service records I got with the car, this is engine number 4
Transmission has been repaired/rebuilt twice.
There are numerous other things that have been done as well. The previous owner bought it new and decided to unload it after it quit and the Jaguar dealer told him to never bring it back in as they would no longer service the car.
I would suggest that you start by downloading the JTIS its the workshop manual.
Then Get yourself a code reader to use on the OBDII codes. These may point you in the right direction.
Why did the dealer no longer want to service the car. They don't normally throw away paying customers.
I agree both with David's suggestions and his incisive question but, being careful not to offend, you really must do some research . . . FAST . . . coz these 4.0L engines have a couple of specific weaknesses, including timing chain tensioners that you DON'T mention having been replaced. No small job, so unless you have documented proof, assume they haven't been done. Faults here can kill an engine instantly. So . . . RULE #1 . . . STOP trying to start the engine . . . START praying it's not already dead. No kidding . . . valves through half a dozen pistons can make a 2 cylinder V8 Jaguar rather weak on power!
Like David, I am intrigued by dealer's rejection. Have you contacted THEM, rather than the seller, to find out why? I'm afraid I have already formed a prediction, but feel you should add this to David's list . . . perhaps do it first.
It seems to be me that you've already discovered the likely cause - no power at the fuel pump, especially if at one point you were able to start the engine (I assume there was no popping/bad missing which would be indicative of a broken timing chain tensioner).
If you are sure the engine timing is okay I would obviously concentrate on the electrical end. Replace any associated fuses even if they appear good and trace the wiring to make sure no hungry mice have been at work. If all looks good, you could probably find an inexpensive engine ECM on eBay and give that a try.
With the notable exception of the original plastic chain tensioner and coil packs, this engine should easily be good for 200K miles. Good luck and tell us what you find.
When I said down on power, it did not seem like it had any low end get up and go. Once above 3500 rpm, the engine pulled nicely. I am used to engines that pull hard from idle to red line.
As for the timing chain tensioners, the engine is 15 miles short of 20,000 miles. It was a full on new engine and everything from the water pump to the flexplate was replaced. I know its bad to assume, but I would think the chain and tensioner would be replaced at that time. I would sincerely hope that this car isnt that fragile.
There are no codes in the system. I borrowed the OBDII reader from the shop down the street. The guy that runs the shop said to put power to the fuel pump and if it runs, set it up with a switch on the dash and leave it at that. That option is tempting at this point.
The nearest reputable Jag dealer is over 110 miles from my doorstep. I dont think hauling the car there is in the immediate future. The other dealer has many legal issues with this car and several other ones they have sold and serviced. I dont see them being in business much longer anyways.
You need to read the PATS code and find out why the light is 'blinking'.
What is the anti-theft logic as far as the starter and fuel pump? If the anti-theft is triggered, perhaps under certain conditions it lets the starter run but won't supply fuel? Maybe the thought is to not fully alert the thief but not let the car start, either.
If the red light is the security light then the security system is preventing the car from starting. Try with another key or use the remote and see if that works to disable/clear the security. You could also have a problem with the Exciter ring not reading the key.
So if it is the security system not reading the key, how does one go about getting a key? Can I call a Jag dealer and have one made and sent to me or do they need the car?
I only have one key and it is marked valet. The key fob is worthless as I suspect it is aftermarket and it does nothing even with a new battery installed in the fob.
The key has a chip that the security system reads via the exciter ring located around the key hole on the steering column. If the exciter ring is unable to read the chip on the key the car will not start. You can get a new key but it will need to be reprogrammed to the car and it is the same process for a remote.
If your security light is flashing I would say the cars security system is not seeing the key but that is my guess.
Engine cranks, but will not start. Red light on the center of the dash is blinking when the key is in the run position after cranking the engine. No power to the fuel pump. Power is at the fuel cut off switch behind the drivers side kick panel.
It is beginning to sound like you need to get a second key cut and then use the SDD/IDS program with a mongoose to reprogram the transponder. This is not expensive if you buy a clone and you will have to use an early version of the program such as v1.30.
Have you checked your exciter ring? This is about a $30.00 part that could fix your problem. It is located at the ignition switch and it has 2 wires. Ohm it and it should read 33.4.
Non running 2002 S-Type 4.0
