Is this typical that Jags have so many issues?

Finally got the collant issue fixed it was the radiator AND water pump. Luckily both replaced at the dealers cost.

Now I have a check engine light and the restricted performance message. Dealer called me and said it could be several problems. Codes are 0171 and I think 0174 they are bank 1 lean and bank 2 lean.

They are thinking the throttle body is going bad. They did a smoke test? Seems there is a leak at the TB.

The smoke test bothers me because wouldn't this create problems with the MAF?

So is a Jag a money pit? Just in the few weeks I've owned it this has been the most troublesome car I've ever owned! I know the old Jags were a constant upkeep and expense but I was thinking they came a long way.

 

Yo! My man...she's over 10 year old. You're almost "there", hang in there. Just had the trans. and trq. converter done (warranty) on my 138k mile 03 STR. Now she's off to replace the intake manifold gasket. If you had any other 13 year old car, you'd be singing the same ole tune. Look at her...she's beautiful. She depended on you making her healthy, now give her a new throttle body, courtesy warranty. Then she'll let her 310 chp surprise the unexpected, whilst looking sexy and brawny in the same breath. Did you throw on a K&N a/f, modded air intake tube, Magnaflow Tru-X center muffler (to replace the stock center resonator?, and a pair of Borlas (or install hi-flow cats and maintain stock rear mufflers)? Together these are worth an est. 25+ chp (est. 335+ chp @ 335+ lb/ft trq.).

 

Well 10 years anyway!

Those two codes point at a air leak in the intake somewhere. Again this is not reported on the V-8. The V-6 tends to have these type of problems from vacuum leaks.

No the 2003 and up cars are pretty good. Some known bugs with the DCCV and other stuff. Nothing really big. You seem to be very unlucky? I wonder who had the car before you?
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Unfortunately no warranty this will be on my dime. The used car dealer I bought it from is pretty stand up because he covered the water pump and radiator even though the car was sold As Is.

I haven't had time to do any mods yet. She is at 98k so I need to spend money on the 100k service and I want to get the trans serviced. Between the two I am looking at nearly 2k.

 

Two owners before me and the car was serviced either at the Jag dealer or a shop that specializes in foreign cars.

I was kind of thinking the TB leaking seemed weird. I was more inclined to the MAF or a leaking tube somewhere.

The other issue I have is that the dealers mechanic said that my original coolant issue was the water pump YET after changing it I kept having the same exact problem. Once he changed the radiator all was well. Maybe I need to grab my car and take it to the shop that's worked on it for the previous 2 owners.

 

Maybe they nudged something during the recent repairs and caused an air leak.

So, to see whether it's a leak or not, read the fuel trims (at idle & 2500rpm). Cheap $15 OBD tool with "live data" such as elm327 will do it. Thread in General Tech on OBD tools for more info.

 

Double/triple check the air box lid to make sure it is in its correct postion. Many posts about this causing those codes.

 

I'm betting with the others you have a vaccume leak instead of a failed TB. Check the airbox and vaccume lines, etc.

 

Something else I failed to mention is that the "restricted performance" warning is not constant. It lights up mainly when the car is cold or just starting the car even when warm. When it warms up the message goes off and the car suffers no performance restriction. I tested this by planting the accelerator and the car took off like a bat out of hell with no stutter or hesitation.

 

Definitely an air or vaccume leak.

 

Ok, so I call the dealer and ask him to tell his mechanic to button up my car and I will come get it. I told him I wanted a second opinion before spending $$ on a new TB.

I arrive at the dealer and start her up. No check engine light.....OK...well I'm sure he cleared and reset it. I drive to work (10 miles) hey, no check engine light and no messages. Hmmmmmmm...I get off work and pick my girl up from a friends house then head home (40 miles) no check engine light or messages!!

What do I think? I think that when they changed the radiator they did not attach/secure something correctly and it came loose causing the leak. This time I think they made sure all was correct.

Keeping my fingers crossed that Victoria will not throw any codes!!!

 

Check the LTFTs. elm327 is about $15. Reads codes too.

 

Throttle body is fine. Hopefully, the absence of CEL and "Restricted Performance" indicates a repair of an air/vaccume leak. If it should return, then either one exists but is small enough of a leak that the ECU diagnostics resets only to trip again, then reset. Common vaccume leaks are: 1. Failure of the fitting on the intake manifold holding the brake booster hose. 2. Crankcase vaccume line (largest of the vaccume lines) running from the passenger cam cover to the intake manifold on drivers side near firewall. 3. Rusted-out EGR tube running from EGR (passenger rear, next to firewall) to same side exhaust manifold. 4. EGR gaskets. 5. Loose fitting airbox cover, the air intake tube connections to airbox and intake plenum. 6. Hose coming from air intake tube (after airbox) to drivers side cam cover. 7. Leaking intake manifold and TB gasket.

 

Your issue is the used car dealership. I have the same year and engine w/120k miles. The key is MAINTENANCE!!!

I just recently went though the same issues TRYING a independent shop to fix a coolant leak.

IMO if they don't specialize in Jaguar don't trust them.

The car will run fine but your gas mileage will suffer significantly. The computer is burning more gas for the added air leak.

I checked with the JAGUAR dealership and they rarely replace water pumps on the 4.2's much less radiators. It was an issue on the 4.0's. I would seriously question the whole throttle body issue. It may simply be the gasket. My leak was coming from the thermostat housing and showing itself as it was coming from the water pump. The shop replaced the housing BUT cracked the hose to the crankcase ventilation valve (round black valve on the front of the passenger valve cover). I received the same codes and restricted performance. The JAGUAR dealership found the leak on the hose, replaced it with a temporary fix (hose not in stock and I was out of town). I ordered the hose, replaced it and all is good!

 

I like your thought process

 

No it is not the dealer but the mechanic that he sends the cars to. The dealer has been great. Check out my other threads about how good they have been.

 

Vaccum Leaks for Codes 0171 and 0174
My problem was on my Jaguar S-Type, 3.0L 2000 with 144,500 miles. I got the Codes 0171 and 0174. As my car has always been spotless (I keep the engine very clean as well) and as all the hoses look like new, I was convinced that I had bigger problems than a vacuum leak....however I DID have a vacuum leak. Here the details:

I built my own smoker with a plastic nuts container (see attachment). Blew air into it at low pressure with my shop vac. Made smoke with a small smoke pen (used by contractors to detect airflow in houses). Worked well.

Then I noted smoke coming from the rear of the engine (between engine and passenger compartment). On investigation I found a rubber grommet which was totally disintegrated. The pipe is attached on the front end at the throttle body, passes over the engine block to the rear end, through a 90degree bend, then fits onto a larger pipe facing vertically down behind the engine block (note: I am not an expert, just a retired businessman).

So I replaced the rubber grommet (I had to make my own, as I could not get something to match from local spares shops). The grommet has an approx 10mm opening on one end and about a 20mm diameter opening on the other.

I have attached a few pics to show where I found my vacuum leak. Again I did not believe that any of my hoses were in bad condition, but was proven wrong.
Attached Thumbnails

 

That may be the hose that's well known for perishing and indeed flagging those codes.

Interesting DIY smoke machine!

 

>I built my own smoker

Nice!

But for vacuum leaks I've had good success using a can of starter fluid. With the motor running send a stream of spray at any leak prone place. If there is a leak the engine will react to sucking in the spray.

The good part is that there is no clean up. The over-spray just evaporates leaving very little residue.

Sometimes the "shade tree" tricks still work, even with our extremely complicated cars.
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Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons

 

^ Yep. Tried and trued vacuum leak finder. I use carb cleaner. Engine idles up then you found your leak. Old school for the win.