Could it be that you were not given full access and that is why the links are not working? Have you given an introduction yet? Jim need to make a fix.

 

Then just download the PDFs and read them offline.

 

Just got back from the dealer, they said the reflash did not work. They say it's either worn out inside or sludged up. They suggested driving it til it dies cause a rebuild would be too expensive. Just changed oil again and put some ATF in - going out for more driving. ( Gas is killing me...). Anybody here of "Sea Foam"?

 

How can the reflash not work???? Change dealer!

Stay away from seafoam and I think it won't help anyway.

 

I have no idea if seafoam works or not, but it won't help you with your problem.

The reflash is to rectify false flagging of codes, if these codes are real I suppose you could say that the reflash didn't work.

I think your best bet is to continue with the flushing / cleaning procedure and hopefully clear out the gunk.

 

Let us be clear about "reflash did not work" - I understood it to mean that the attempt to reflash failed. Is that what was meant?

 

Agreed, stay away from the seafoam - you have 2 options: Option 1 - stick with the 5W20 & ATF combo and drive Option 2 - Pay to get the top end of the motor apart to clean out the VVT passeges/ replace the VVT actuator unit...

Sorry to hear the re-flash didn't address the VVT issues - As Norri pointed out the P1388 must be a "real" code...

 

Took car to dealer; re-flash didn't do the trick. They have nothing else they can do except rebuild or repalce. Told me to just drive it until it doesn't run anymore. Can't do that, can't reregister it because it won't pass emmissions in our state with fault on. Anyone hear of "Sea Foam"? Supposed to ungunk things. I only have a 10 temporary plate on to try and resolve this

 

Seafoam is supposed to de-gunk the inlet tract, injectors, valves etc.
If gunk is your problem it is internal to to the oilways, so the flushing, atf treatment is the way to go.

 

Everyone says stay away from seafoam.

If it's a fault, try the ATF or disassemble and replace I suppose.

 

To gain access to the VVT units on either inlet camshaft requires removal of the front timing cover, which is an extensive operation. Using ATF mixed with engine oil is the best way to go if there is no physical damage to the VVT units or other timing components.

Another area that seems to get little attention is the screen on the oil pickup tube located in the sump. Removing the sump on the 3.0 litre unit requires also removing the front crossmember, but that is certainly less complex than removing the motor once it has failed. If the screen is blocked by contamination, the oil pump will not be able to supply sufficient oil at pressure to the VVT unit.

 

Thanks everyone for all the info. Yes the re-flash failed to eliminate the code so the problem must be glogging top end or screen; or wear. Doing the 5-20w with AFT and hope I don't have to drop sump. Will update. Thank you all for sticking with me (sticking may not be the right word, ha). Hope I can return favor in the future.