hi, after coming out the shop my car ran fine for a day than the other day while driving home it lacked power; even with the paddle to the floor it didn't respond.
after checking the wires i found the camshaft sensor wire on the right (in the car looking towards the front) was cut. i repaired it but the problem still exist.

i have a (P0357 ignition coil G) Code.

2001 Jaguar S-Type V8 4.0L

that will be coil #7 I've seen so make different labels for these car cylinders i don't know which one to follow. which coil will that be?

i'm grateful for any help i can get so i can resolve this issue asap.

 

You can download free the workshop manual or Vehicle Specifications - both show the cyl layout.

 

Coil #7 - drivers side bank, 3rd coil from front of engine. Also check connector to associated fuel injector on #7 and all actually.

 

I suspect it's the rearmost (i.e. 4th).

 

The attached file references the cylinder layout for the AJ-V8 engine for various MYs.

 

thanks guys!

i changed the coil, cleared the code and i let the car run for 15 about minuets. i did not get get a check engine light. i will take it for a drive today and see if it all is well.

thanks!

 

ok,
took it for a drive and the same problem however i didn't get a check engine light.

car will idle without any issues, however when i drive it i have a problem.
it will not respond to to the paddle properly, i can sink it to the floor and it will not respond i noticed a air backfiring sound (not loud) at times also when it doesn't respond to the accelerator.

i notice that if i'm tapping the paddle it runs okay.

i had a new fuel pump installed during the engine replacement so i'm going to try using injector cleaner and a new:
fuel filter
Gas Filter
Air Filter
OEM Fuel Pump (the replacement was not oem)

am i on the right track or is there something else i should look at?

 

Do your exhaust have black carbon build-up? Does the car take a bit of cranking to start? If so, I suspect you need to replace your injectors. They do need re-cal from time to time. I bought a matched rebuilt set for my 2001 because of those symptoms -- had the mechanic install and problem solved.

 

You can certainly check the fuel pressure and report back but you have a much larger problem looming over your car.

How many miles on it and what if anything has been done to the timing tensioners?
.
.
.

 

Yes it has black carbon build-up. however i dont know if thats new or old because i baught this car as a project. i replaced:
Engine
Fuel Pump (not OEM)
some ignition coils
alternator (not OEM so it gives the battery light from time to time)

i added a bottle of fuel system cleaner and the car ran great for a mile i came home and took it back out later that day and it was back to the symptoms so i'm leaning towards new:
in-line fuel filter (than add a bottle of injector cleaner)

if that doesnt work i'll get:

injectors (OEM)
Fuel Pump (OEM)
air filter

 

Replacing the injectors is a low cost job. $150 for rebuilt (be sure they have been flow-matched) injectors, and $100 to install. I'd do just this repair and evaluate. If this solves your problem, plan to change out the spark plugs in the near future.

AM fuel pumps are usually a decent choice, they tend to fail sooner than OEM's is all.

Air filters won't give you this kind of problem, but always keep a clean one in there for best economy-performance results.

What happens with injectors is this; they begin to leak while the car is not running, which causes a super-rich fuel mixture when starting the car, which causes longer crank times. A fuel odor can be detected during start-up and afterwards. Secondly, the injector calibration is lost, which typically causes much richer fuel-mix when driving, which results in noticeable carbon build-up at the tailpipes and can cause spark plug deterioration.