Can anyone tell me where the Purge valve is on a 2008 s-type 3.0 it won't start p0442 heard loud clicking and smelled fuel inside original gas cap.

 

Here is a link to the Workshop Manual for the X202:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/aq3872pbu5...kshop.pdf?dl=0

 

Vandyone-

I'm concerned about if a Purge Valve can cause a no start?

 

Does it crank? Is PATS happy? Has the battery been check properly (note that last word is vital)?

 

Batt is fine. Cranks kicks over dies immediately first time after crank but won't kick over. I will think it's the pump but can't afford to fix it. I need advice on how to remove it. I tried but it won't come out. I desperately need to know if the pump can be found on any other car or if it can be disassembled and only the pump replaced. My connections on mine are soldered on. Looks like this is the end of my Jaguar experience if I can't solve this pump issue.

 

Guessing on a Jaguar can become very expensive very fast.

What is the battery voltage across the terminals when checked with a voltmeter?

Have you checked the electrical supply to the fuel pump and the resistance on the earth (ground) side of the circuit?

You can also have a failing Crankshaft Position Sensor, which sends a signal to the PCM to keep the fuel pump running when the starter is engaged.

 

Ok so this is what i found. cleaned it out. Jumped it and it ran strong. All this started after ran out of gas. Do I have a clogged pump? it will spit when key turned i hear it wine but still no start. Battery will rest at 12.2 after shut off. Only started once after a jump start so maybe needs more amps?
Inside pump housing

Inside pump housing

 

What does the inside of the fuel tank look like?

You most likely have a clogged fuel filter. Clean out the canister and lines, then install a new fuel filter before adding fresh fuel.

 

Weird ****. Cleaned but nothing changed. Took out pump tested on batt worked great put back in and nothing so pump works had strong stream. Last thing I can think of is fuel pressure regulator may be clogged so will swap with older one and see if anything changes. If not will cut into harness and wire direct to battery.
Inside tank

 

Replaced crankshaft sensor but still nothing. Anyone know how to do a reset or relearn?

 

Did you ever replace the fuel filter? I bet some of that crud made it to the filter. Even if you did change the filter, it's likely the new one quickly clogged, too.

Did you ever figure out the source of the crud? Is there more of it inside the tank?

There's no need to change the wiring to the pump, and you will be bypassing some VERY important safety features. Take care of the debris problem. Same with the CKP sensor. I doubt that has anything to do with the present situation.

 

That crud in the pictures does not appear to be soluble in gasoline/petrol; so, while you follow Karl's excellent advice, you might also want to blow the fuel lines leading up to the fuel filter clear with compressed air prior to installing the clean, new filter in the wheel well.

 

The old ckp sensor

 

Replied in your 2nd thread with same question
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...cedure-229228/

 

Took off the filter dumped it out but when I blew through it alot of fuel literally sprayed out. Then I was able to blow through it freely although it wasn't done with a hose on the other side but it blew freely. So I suppose I'll try it again and replace it if it doesn't work. Whattau think?

 

U0402 u0167 codes popped up. New filter nothing happened.

 

I'm finding it confusing and awkward that you've posted that AND started another thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-start-229413/

It's a distributed immo. I think you've upset something or got a failing battery / bad power.

 

This thread is starting to remind me of a butterfly in a field of flowers

P0442..

Something that resembles Grits in the fuel cell.. (Google it)

Crank position sensor..

Now PATs codes..

Can we get back to get back to...Suck Squeeze Bang Blow? Does the vehicle attempt to start? Do we have fuel pressure and spark?

 

​​​​​​Great description! I was thinking more of a ping pong ball in a clothes dryer, but I think you nailed it. Unless...

SQUIRREL!!!

All seriousness aside, this thread has been all over the map. There is likely not some single magic fix for the no-start. It's probably time for some basic diagnostics versus one Hail Mary after another. For example, check fuel pressure at the injector rail, using a mechanical gauge. Check for the presence of spark, etc.

The two new codes are not very common. I don't have any info on U series codes, and not much online, either. Hopefully somebody else can chime in with more details.

One online reference suggested these codes may be related to the security system. For a quick check, observe the PATS indicator light on the dash, at the base of the windshield. The security system may have inhibited the fuel pump and/or injectors as a precaution. Here is how it's supposed to behave if all is good:

First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every 3 seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault.

 

With those codes you'd probably expect PATS to be flashing a code.

No-one ever gets those codes BTW. (Try the free download workshop manual.)