25+ years of wrenching and never heard of this bore washing phenomenon. I would think that if you have one of the nikasil engines and had to move it a short distance cold you could rev it up some and turn the key off with the engine revved and the throttle open so the last bit of fuel being injected hopefully gets pumped out as the engine comes to a stop. Bring it up to 2500-3k then turn the key off and open the throttle simultaneously, might help prevent issues.-?-

 

I had a '93 Infiniti J30 that suffered with it. Learned not to start the engine unless I was going to run it at least 5 min. or so.

 

Bore wash is a separate issue from the old Nikasil problem.

Jaguar fixed it by installing oil squirters in the block that's why the 4.2L does not suffer from this. Your solution won't work because the engine is cold and the rings have not expanded so you are still blowing a rich mixture past the rings which washes the oil off the cylinders as Mikey explained.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1444847677
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I had the same problem and all the suggested fixes.
Finally had a guy suggest to change around the XR-14B192-BA relay in the front relay box.
Worked like a charm..

 

Would anyone happen to know what relay powers the throttle body motor? It seems to not be working and no air is going to the cylinders

 

May depend on your car year etc - but will be in the free downloadable JTIS workshop manual also in Elec Guide on JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I know that it's been a while but I didn't have the patience to work on it till know. I pulled out the replacement cam sensors and put the original ones back in after talking to someone nearby that said the car may not be able to communicate with the new ones. He also suggested that since I rebuilt the fuel pump to check the float to make sure it wasn't fouled. Still not starting but I will try moving the relays around to see if it helps. I need to get this car running it's the only one I have now that my truck blew up.

 

Do you have fuel pressure and spark?

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Yes there is good fuel pressure and checking the spark was a shocking experience but is very good. First time checking a coil on plug system.

 

You need 3 things for the engine to work fuel, spark & compression now in today's engines your electronics must work correctly to make it run properly. The way I see it if you have the first 3 that engine should be running or sputtering.

 

Now that you mention compression- are we sure that the cam chains tensioners are good and one of the cams has not jumped?

 

Did the OP get his car started - and what was the real issue?

I have a similar issue with my 2002 3.0 S-type - let it sit too long, after recharging battery to 12.2V will crank but won't start - thanks for any updates.

 

Blocked fuel filter or dead pump? Check for fuel pressure & plenty of fuel out of the schrader valve.

 

Thanks. Hoping it's something simple. Still working out the basics - good battery, starting with accelerator pressed down, start in neutral. It was running just fine has been sitting driveway for three or so months plus its been cold. It wasn't getting driven much before that either. I'll do the fuel and spark check once I'm assured of a warm weekend. Will start a thread if I make no headway.

 

They hate standing. Liable to be a fuel pump.

 

12.2 is very low, a good fully charged battery will be at least 12.7 standing voltage, freshly charged should show over 13. Take it somewhere for testing. Without a known good battery you may be chasing a fault that doesn't exist.

 

Right on the money!!Thanks to Jagv8 - it was the fuel pump - had to replace the fuel pump.

The white connector was a PITA - took a beating to get out but all is well at the end. Just changed just the pump inside the unit and the filters. Took some fiddling to disassemble and assemble back - not a difficult task (compared to taking the white fuel connector out). No need to special tool for the outside ring either some gentle tapping with a skinny piece of wood and a mallet and it started moving. Also positioning the fuel pump unit correctly back inside the tank took some fiddling to get it right.

Also thanks to '05 STR had to trickle charge the battery for 12 hrs to get from 12.2V to 12.7V (guess I may have to look to replace battery soon).

Turned the key and the car started right away - purring like champ. Changing fuel filter this weekend - hopefully won't be snowing but it's supposed to be darn cold.

 

Good to hear!

12.2 isn't terrible (it's not wonderful, either). See how it goes.

 

So rebuilding the pump didn't work? And your new battery was a lemon too? What extraordinary bad luck.

 

Nah - quite the contrary. Replacing the fuel pump was the solution - car started effortlessly after replacement. Old battery works fine but it will need to be replaced sometime in the future - more of something to watch out for.