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Problems jaguar s type 3.0 RESOLVED

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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gordon1994
the heavy steering and parking brake warning light are off now...
Making progress, huh? Only a week ago you were ready to roll the car down a boat ramp, but now things seem to be improving markedly.

Even though your brake warning light is off now, please double check the fluid level at the brake master cylinder. I think the light warns of two problems: Parking brake on, and/or low brake fluid.

As far as laptop software suggestions, I don't have anything to recommend. Maybe somebody else can chime in. Or you may have to find a specialist repair shop (doesn't have to be the dealer) that has the proper scanner to read all the Jaguar-specific fault codes.




 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 08:20 AM
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From: flevoland
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First of all I want to tank everybody who did help me.
the problems are finally solved.
abs error and tractioncontrole is solved there was brown gunk on the abs ring so the magnet couldn't make any contact. The heater that only blow cold air was the dccv I toke the cable off and there was hot air so I going to replace it now. The parking break warning light and the power steering that did go off are fix now the problem was the battary. I charge it and now it's fine. Thnx all
 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gordon1994
The heater that only blow cold air was the dccv I toke the cable off and there was hot air so I going to replace it now.
Glad to hear you’ve got the other faults cleared up. You are to be commended for your perseverance. It’s interesting that you had three faults in play at the same time. Here’s to systematic troubleshooting, as sometimes there’s no single magic fix.

One slight hitch with the lack of heat, though. The two internal valves in the DCCV are spring-loaded to the open position. The logic is to allow max heat in case of an electrical failure. This makes sure the defroster can clear the windshield as a safety precaution.

You removed the DCCV connector and had full heat. That means the DCCV itself is probably fine, but is getting an erroneous command to the full closed (cold) position. Remember power to the DCCV = cold, no power = hot. You’ve got to determine why the DCCV is getting the cold command (power to the plug) when it shouldn’t.

Have you played with manual mode on the control panel? Bump up the temperature selection until HI is displayed. This bypasses most of the automatic inputs.

Edit: If you need to temporarily drive the car until you can fix the heater, you can safely do so with the DCCV plug removed. You'll have LOTS of heat, though. Manually turn down the fan speed as needed and be prepared to open a window or two.
 

Last edited by kr98664; Mar 11, 2019 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Mar 16, 2019 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
One slight hitch with the lack of heat, though. The two internal valves in the DCCV are spring-loaded to the open position.
Any updates on the lack of heat? I'm curious what you found.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Any updates on the lack of heat? I'm curious what you found.
Its fix I did place a new DCCV in I pulled the old one out and what I did see was unbelievable. That part electronic card where you put the plugin for power was broken off.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by gordon1994
Its fix I did place a new DCCV in I pulled the old one out and what I did see was unbelievable. That part electronic card where you put the plugin for power was broken off.
Wow, that's some find. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Three active faults at once and you systematically found and fixed them all.

I'm still scratching my head over the DCCV fault. That seems opposite of how the DCCV normally behaves, but who knows what happened internally with the broken connection. Just glad you didn't listen to me and got it fixed.
 
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