I know we've been talking privately, but honestly.

To answer your 4th question.. A BMW E36 M3.

All the LS1 swap stuff is already well sorted...

But I have to admit pioneering the S-Type swap is badass...

 

A BMW M3 could be an option, but they don't depreciate as much as Jags and I haven't ran across one with a blown engine and low enough mileage in a 2000 to 2003 model. When I looked at M3's as candidates, I couldn't find one below $10K that was in good enough condition for my purposes. +, personally I don't like BMWs very much. They are too common of a car and I put them in the same category as Mustangs and Camaros.

Regarding another's comment on not spending money during the recession, I think that spending under $20K total for a project like this is much better than going out and buying a corvette, Viper or other high performance car.

 

I didn't say to not spend any money during the recession - hell, my wife is trying her best to convince me to remodel the master bathroom in granite and tear out a perfectly good garden tub and replace it with a whirlpool. I simply said that I wouldn't spend the required funds on this particular project. You can pick up an STR in decent shape with relatively low miles for less money than you're planning to spend on your highly complex project, if that's your objective....

 

You are correct in that purchasing a later model STR would probably be the easier/smarter way to go. A 2006 STRs, with around 20K miles, can be had where I live for about $28,000. This car would have have 400HP and is pretty darn fast. I've seen a 2005 with about 47K miles for $20K.

If I pay that much for a used car, I wont want to put more money in it and customize it. Coming at this from the other direction, if you only pay a couple thousand for a lower mileage rolling chassis, you have the option to do what you want to the car without worrying about its value. Plus I'll get to have all the fun of a new unique project and learn more than I ever wanted about GM and Ford electronics. (I am sure that is worth millions)(LOL). If/when I pull this off then a few others will want to do this swap as well.

I am asking myself right now, is it worth taking a lot of time and money to make a unique S-Type Jaguar with 480HP, or should I just go out and buy one with 400HP. Will 80HP and a 6-speed manual be that much faster than a stock STR? Great question!

 

Someone posted that I purchase a JTIS manual CD for the S-type.

I wanted to post that it is really a piece of garbage. I wont purchase another one of these! Most of the categories for a 2000 S-type are blank and you have to search other years to hopefully find what you are looking for.

I am glad it was inexpensive else I would be really ticked off!

 

Unfortunately that's just about the only thing a lowly "consumer" like us can get his hands on. Besides some wiring diragrams and other fun stuff.

I love the uniqueness and novelty associated with your project. Anyone can buy an "off the shelf STR"

George

 

Tijoe - even assuming you're right about having to check other years (and I've not checked the 2000 to see if you are right), so what, it's not the end of the world is it? What do you expect to get for so little money that's even vaguely as useful?

You may, of course, have a poor version of JTIS but how would I know?

If you want better info go on jag's own GTR that I've posted about on here plenty of times.

 

I've continued doing research on a LS3 GM engine swap in my S-type and one of the issues I ran into is finding out more information about the PCM-150 EEC/PCM/UCU/ECU used in 1999 to 2002 S-types.

Does anyone on the forum know any specifics about the PCM150 S-type controller? Is the PC board inside the same as Ford's EEC-V?

I've been trying to figure out what will be the best overall engine management system to use for the swap. Every approach I look at has some technical hurdle. I vacillate between using a GM ECM or making a FORD EEC-V or Jaguar PCM150 run a GM engine. If I go GM, I'll have to build and program a packet/code converter if I want the instrument cluster, A/C, and suspension functions to work properly. If I go Ford, then I'll have a do a mega-tune for the engine and there will be a firing order issue. (Unless I use a late model Ford EEC that has the same firing order, but then there will be a total rewire of the engine harness. to use the Ford EEC.)

Comments? Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

This is the first time I've heard it called a PCM150. It's always been Ford PTEC (or PTECH). It's said not to be the EEC V but there are so many variants of it so who knows?

 

Thanks for the connectivity. All of the Ford Controllers in this form factor
have PCM150 on the white ID label. I read about Ford PTEC controllers, but could not find a link to the PCM150 coding on the EEC. As far as I can tell, this style ECM has been used on Jaguar, Lincoln LS, Ford Explorer, and Ford Mountaineer. This controller appears to be used on most late model Ford SOHC and DOHC engines.

The PTEC controller is a Motorola based 32-bit PowerPC processor, rather than Intel in EEC-V.

I have read that late model (2006 on) Mustangs and other cars with 4.6 and 5.0 engines are using the PTEC controller, but are packaged differently and with 3 connectors, but different pin-outs.

I understand that the PTEC controllers are tunable, but I haven't found much about them on the internet.

 

I just wanted to let everyone know that I have the engine and trans out of the S-type and am presently taking measurements to fit a LS3/T56 trans into the car.

There is plenty of room in the engine compartment. The first hurdle is to determine what will be the best oil pan to fit around the S-type cross member. The cross member and power steering rack are right in the middle of where the engine has to sit. I've got about 9" usable clearance in front of the cross member, and 7" behind the rack. The LS1 Tech forum has lots of information on available oil pans. An off-the-shelf pan would be best, or mod if I have to. If I want to spend the money, a sumpless system will work too. Another option is to design and fabricate a new cross member that accommodates the steering rack, engine mounts and clearance for the oil pan. Could be a fun sub-project, but I'd rather keep things as simple as possible.

One concern I have is that if the LS3 engine mounts aren't located close enough to the existing vertical centerline of the cast aluminum cross member, the engine mount holes in the cross member may not hold up to an offset engine weight. There may be too much torsion created on the cross member. Add in a lot more engine torque versus the stock 4.0, plus at 430hp to 500hp this may put way too much load on the cross member. I don't have the faintest idea how much load a cast Aluminum cross member can take.

Time to start crunching numbers...

 

The S-type LS3 swap begins...

I purchased a 2010 Camaro LS3 dropout with a 6-speed manual trans and all the associated accessories today. The drive-train should arrive in a week or so.

Looks like I am committed to this conversion. 430hp in a S-type sedan. I am salivating already. I have a lot of work ahead of me to make it work...

Anybody know how much torque/power the S-type rear-ends can handle?
I am a little worried that the S-type rear-end wont be strong enough.

 

The STR puts out 400 so it'll probably be OK. You may want an LSD (common request for the STR).

 

Tijoe, it would be awesome if you posted pictures of this undertaking!

 

He'll struggle to post pics before getting the parts LOL

 

I am a picture taking kind of guy. But I do need the canvas before I can paint the picture.

I've been researching the 2000 to 2002 S-type and Lincoln LS differentials and from what I've been able to find, my generation of the Ford 8.0, 3.31 ratio differentials, can handle around 400 lb-ft of torque and up to about 400hp. (The LS3 is published at 420 lb-ft.) There appears to be concern with how much power the axles can take, but I haven't found any postings relating to failed axles. (Nobody is sticking high powered engines in S-types yet and experience what happens.)

I suppose that time will tell, once I get the car running over the next few months.

Does anyone know of someone having a P-Ayr 2046 LS mock-up block for sale? That is the next thing on my list to purchase.

Joe

 

I vote for finding an s-type r then tricking it out...

Looking at craigslist in my part of the States:

2006 -> ~$30K
2004 -> ~$20K
...

If you are willing to travel to pick up your car you could prolly score a very good deal...

PS Picked up some IMT o-rings from a local Jag dealer and just had to sit in the brand new XF supercharged (470 hp @ 6000 rpm) models they had and look at the engine.... nice... A used XF at a discount would also make for a very nice project...

Scott

 

I just picked up a beautiful silver 2003 STR w/89K for $11,900. Mint in and out. The dealer gave me $3000 toward my 2002 X-Type trade with bad tranny and transfer case. I put down $2000 cash for a final $6,000 finance on one bad *** STR.
On Monday the owner of Euro Tek Designs is test driving her before the install of Euro Teks Stage 1 Kit...$1200= 1.5 upper pulley, K&N filter, low temp thermostat, and ECU tune= 435 hp @ 5700 rpm 488 lb./ft. @ 3200 rpm. I applaude the guy doing the S-Type GM engine and tranny swap. That he's got the ***** to do it?, my hats off to him for laying down the foundation for others to follow.

 

Hey Joe,

I've been out of the loop on this as of late. Congrats on the drivetrain purchase!! There's a lot of info out there as far as what to do with the oil pans, worse case you can get someone to weld up a custom one based on a Moroso pan.

You got a t-56 trans right? This should all go together well. Let me know if you need any CAD/ Fabrication / wiring help as you go along.

What did you end up paying for the drivetrain? PM / Email me if you like.

George

 

bfsgross - Very nice find!! Please start another thread with pictures of new STR and upgrades...

TiJoe - Cool... Please post pictures of your progress...

Scott