I'll be doing my DCCV soon, but those daft clips on the hoses look to be a PITA to remove and replace.

I'd sooner just put screw-up jubilee clips on there, so is there a reason that I shouldn't as the Jag spares dept seem to be insistant that the proper clips be used?

 

No reason not to use Jubilees, just be careful as the valve is plastic.
The Jag clips are actually not that bad especially if you have the spiffy special tool, but I did the valve using a long nosed pair of vise grips to
remove and replace the clips.

 

I replaced most of my coolant system hoses last winter and used the screw type clamps on the entire job. 10,000 miles and not a drop of coolant lost. I bought the good ones from the Marine supply store.

 

The tool shown above is the real key.

If you try to replace all the factory hose clamps with the old worm drive style you will find that some are in an area that you just can't get a screw driver in to operate the clamp.

I know as that was my plan originally about 5 years ago. As I got deeper and deeper into the engine this became VERY apparent!

I finally got the right tool and it made it 10 times easier. There is no room to work so the remote cable lets you slide into spots you don't have any room for your hands and you can't see what you’re doing. Plus it locks into whatever position you want. This holds the clamp open until you can position it properly. Then when the clamp is released it snaps into position so there is little time for the clamp to move.

Try to put the clamps exactly back where the factory had them to reduce leaks.
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I would advise to just use the standard Jaguar clamps. They are much easier to install and having just replaced 20+ hoses I've not experience any leakage. I only used jubilee clamps on one hose and only because it was an aftermarket hose with a larger outside diamter.

You will want the special tool in any case to remove the existing clamps. My first tool was purchased via Amazon and broke pretty quickly. My second tool was purchased from Summit Racing and is more sturdy. Keep in mind that almost all Jaguar hoses come supplied with new clamps and they are held open with a yellow disposable plastic clip. In many cases you can install the hose and twist off the plastic clip and the clamp is set. With the jubilee clamps you will spend more time trying to tighten, and after installation there is always the sharp tail edge of the clamp to cut your hand when doing future maintenance.

 

Thanks chaps. The DCCV itself on the V6 isn't too bad to get to, just those daft clips, especially the lower of the three hoses.

I have used long nosed pliers before on another car that had these type of clips, but the clips had a habit of pinging off if you so much as microscopically moved your grip on them.

I'll get some decent jubilee clips and then swear a lot, because I didn't buy that special tool and clips!

edit:
David, I just read your post. Are you saying that I should replace the hoses if I'm replacing the DCCV?

 

Personal choice I suppose. Some folks get by fine doing repairs only after items break. Others like to perform some preventative maintenance. Your DCCV hoses might last another 5-10 years as they are. Or they might spring a leak next week.

 

Hmm, I see what you're saying but then again, I could replace all the hoses 'just in case'. I'll give them a check, if they look old, then I can replace them. For all I know, the previous owner may have changed them already?

 

OK, all done and in less than an hour.....however the drivers side still blew hot.

When I checked the new valve, the solonoid clicked on and off as I gently touched the wires at the connector. This happened even when the key was out, but then stopped happening, until the ingition was on again. It as if there was still some residual power in the wiring, enough to operate the solonoid.

With the ignition on, I jumpered the valve control wires and earthed each side of the valve to the car body, clearly hearing the solonoid clicking in response. Once the valve was connected with the connector again, the same phenomena occured if I gently moved the wires at the connector. The valve twitched on and off as before.

It's possible that the connector has a dodgy wire in it, but now the blowers are ice cold and stayed that way, so I've left it for now.

Annoyingly during all this, I tested the now removed old valve only to find both the solonoid plungers working freely. Maybe when the valve heats up, it doesn't move so freely?

Conclusion is that I may have wasted £78 on a new valve if it's only the connector at fault, but I'd say that that old valve was probably knackered as it was quite rusty on the outside and was most likley the original valve. We'll see......

Just for information, I used the original hose clips which I managed to lock open like when they are supplied new. It makes it easier to slide them over the pipework then. They are not easy to lock and I nearly had my eye out more than once as the clip flew out the jaws of the pliers.

 

Much safer and easier to use the proper tool instead of pliers.

 

Agreed, but the bottom hose clip is different to the other two and doesn't look like that tool will fit it.
In addition, I needed to get the job done and didn't have time to order a tool and didn't want to pay £30+ at Halfords or such.

 

I have to get one of these.....

 

The red handled tool from Amazon broke very quickly. I finished the job with this tool.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80656/overview/

 

That's a much better tool for about twelve of our Great British Pounds.


Just found it here and indeed, it is £12.61
US PRO Extra Long Reach Heavy Duty Hose Clamp Pliers with Flexible 600mm Wire 18 - 54mm US1729