Hello all and greetings from across the pond...

I hope someone can shed some light on this issue as it's driving me crazy. Car is a 2005 STR.

I was having issues with a couple of buttons on my remotes (4 button), the spare one wasn't working at all so I presumed dead battery and possibly broken push buttons on the board. The main remote was a struggle and it was an effort to get the buttons to work. So, both keys were refurbished with new boards, rubber pads and batteries. When programmed to the car with SDD the main remote was fine, and improved for range, but the spare refused to work at all, but would start the car so transponder ok. But also, SDD showed the car recognised the button presses on both remotes, even the one that then didn't work following programming.

If programmed to the car individually the other was successfully deleted, so memory of the remote in the door module was being erased. So the one that did work stopped working, but then started working when programmed again. This confirmed one working remote and one dead one and the car was presumably responding correctly.

Shortly after this the main remote stopped locking the car. Unlocks fine, boot opens, but lock and lights don't work. So I'm locking with the blade in the door lock at the moment.

The ignition barrel flap appears to go over ok. I can hear the solenoid when inserting and removing the key in the ignition and the flap is physically closed again. I lubricated it anyway.

i suspected the door module next so it was replaced with one from a scrapper. Remotes reprogrammed to the new module and the exact same symptoms are present.

I cannot understand why one remote works and not the other when I believe them to be ok. They were tested for signal, all buttons are new, the car 'hears' them... but one is dead and the other only partially working.

Can anyone suggest where to look next please?

Many thanks
Jim

 

HI
Can be the door module sometimes, that where the remotes are programmed and stored

 

also if you have a search you will find the button pressing procedure to switch the mhz from i cant remember exactly ? 318mhz to 415mhz ? and vice versa .
i think you press and hold both lock and unlock then press the headlight button . but you should confirm this . it's been 5 odd years since i had to do that .

 

315 for US and 433 for Europe. Tried this previously but didn't make any difference. SDD indicated that the door module received the button press during programming, if it was on the wrong frequency it wouldn't have heard it would it? I would presume no.

The door module has already been swapped, which produced exactly the same symptoms as the original. So the fault appears to lie elsewhere... I just don't know where that is!

 

Just a thought... as the front module controls the headlight on/off with the remote having received the signal from the door module... maybe wiring? Any electronics gurus?!

 

Replaced the drivers door actuator / latch mechanism today, in case any of the micro switches were causing issues. Replacement was from a breaker, but it hasn't solved the problem. Issues remain the same.

Anyone got any clues? I'm tearing my hair out.

 

Hi, Jim:

If the lock assembly was obtained from a breakers, are you sure it is a perfectly functioning example? There are a lot of places where used parts are great, but given the amount of work required, inside of the car door may not be one of them...

 

I can't be 100% sure it's fully functional, no. It'll be an expensive gamble buying a new one from Jaguar considering it may be something else related to wiring or something. The other faults with the remotes can't be a coincidence, surely?!

The two remotes behaving in different ways is confusing me. The car learns both remotes but then only one works, when they are both refurbished and essentially brand new. How on Earth does that happen? One sends a signal to unlock the car which gets through, but not the other. Neither will lock the car.

 

Well, someone on the UK forum advised getting a new remote rather than just a new board and while sceptical it would be any different I did it anyway, for a mere £13.

I swapped the key blank and transponder out for the old one, programmed on IDS... and it works. Can't believe it.

So somehow the new key is more than the sum of its parts! So if anyone is considering a remote repair, just buy a new key, the cost is virtually the same and the chances of success are higher. (Apparently I'm not the only one to have had this issue.)