Does anyone know how difficult it is to remove and replace the woodgrain dash bezel (see photo)? The original bezel (2001 S-Type) has cracked in several places and I wonder if it's worthwhile to replace it.

Thoughts?

 

Fellow member third had removed and repaired his S Type dash awhile back. I believe he has a DIY on it here.

 

+1
That would probably be an STR but much the same really.

Also the workshop manual is a free download and likely various stuff scattered around it.

Expect it to be less than easy.

 

Thanks! I did a search, but perhaps used the wrong terms. I didn't want to remove and replace the entire dash, but just this woodgrain panel/bezel.

I'll look again!

 

Thought it might be attached with clips or something easy, but wasn't about to start prying at it!

 

You can also contact Madera Concepts (Automotive Wood Restoration) and enquire as to the best method for removing the fascia trim.

 

Hi bendebusk

This quote below is from post 13 by Glen. Link to it here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e1515103247555


“The wood is glued to an aluminum frame which form 1 assembly.
You have to remove the air vents which will expose screws (if I recall correctly).
Removing those vents is a PITA, you need a small pick to pry the tiny locking tangs out of their slots through the vent louvers. (use a bright flashlight to locate them, good luck with that)
But very important, under the far right vent, stick your fingers inside, and to your left.
You will feel a metal tang, pull it toward the opening that you're sticking your fingers through. Its a sliding metal "lock" device which has 2 elongated holes that engage 2 "rivet" like posts to lock that end in and down.
Best of luck, be brave

Also, of course, you have to pry the trip-meter switch assembly up, and out of the panel assembly.”

I have done this job but it was a long time ago and was difficult. It is easy to break the brittle plastic pieces in the vents. I attempted it on a parts car before doing it on my good car. The practice helped. The idea (from memory) is to pull the passenger side vent off. Then you push the metal tab along about a half inch. This will disengage it from the locking pins. It slides off elongated slots (you can't see them) and you may need to use some force to get it moving. Controlled force. From memory I think I pushed on the wood panel while pulling the tab and this gave some movement. You also need to have the steering wheel at its lowest position. But the problem is getting the vent off without damage. Glen explains it well as the locking points are unseen and only freed after the vent is removed and tab (or tang) pulled.

Good luck
Paul

 

Sounds like the type of project where collateral damage to the vents is a distinct possibility!

Now I wonder what can be done while the panel is in place? If it is a clear coat crack, is there any off-the-shelf wood finishing product that might address the issue?