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Rusty sills - how to! How bad can it be?!!! Lamb to the slaughter

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  #1  
Old 09-12-2015, 04:56 PM
Andrew Fanshawe's Avatar
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Default Rusty sills - how to! How bad can it be?!!! Lamb to the slaughter

Ok, here we go. Got a cheap 2000 S type 3 litre V6.
Plan is to restore and sell on in really good condition. Possible the only S type with rust free sills!

Did have a jag service history till about 2010, then......who knows.
Ended up with a gentleman who left it standing for 2 years because he wasn't allowed to drive anymore, and,.....................oh, this is boring, so lets get on with the rusty sills.

Sill cover off on the drivers side (remove the black clips from underneath, remove the mudflap by drilling out the rivet from underneath, and pulling it off the cover. Go under front wheelarch and peel back the lower corner and remove the torx screw that goes through the wing into the sill cover. Then just pull the cover out horizontally to remove it from its clips.

Here's the first view from the front of the car towards the back




Just in front of the back wheel



Underneath just in front of the rear wheel where the sill flanges have collapsed when jacking up




Further forwards



More damage, tip of iceberg style



First cut and outer skin peeled down



Been full of water eh?



More revealed further back



And furthest back



More to come......
 
  #2  
Old 09-12-2015, 05:03 PM
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Oops, last photo was wrong...



More at the back



Removing horizontal panel under floor just in front of rear wheel



And removed



Oh dear



Better start putting metal back at some point!!

Andy.
 
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  #3  
Old 09-13-2015, 01:27 PM
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I like the photos. I have a 1999 S Type 3.0 and this has also suffered similar corrosion.
I guess the use of salt spreading on winter roads in the UK does not help. I wonder if Jaguar also skimped on corrosion protection?
 
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:40 PM
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Part 2.......
Off with the right rear wheel and the inner arch liner.
Cleaned the steel up in the lower corner and only the first inch or two is weak




Cut out and a plate made and welded in










Media blaster out




to clean up the top corner inside.






Good penetration weld there!

Cleaned all sound metal but with surface rust and painted it with KURUST. That aint coming back!



Next bit marked for cutting



This is the rear of the marked panel and the extent of the rust



Here is the area cut out and the panel behind media blasted and painted with kurust



Ive left the lower lip in to make sure I know where the panels line up.

Cardboard templates made to mimic the original panels. ie in 2 sections spot welded together




And cutout and spotwelded together with my trust spot welder






And tack welded in






And ran out of energy!! Until tomorrow.

Andy.
 
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  #5  
Old 09-15-2015, 12:52 PM
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Are you using old tool box/chest metal for your patches?
.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tbird6
Are you using old tool box/chest metal for your patches?
.
.
.
Ha, yes. Well spotted. The perfect thickness for that panel. Not for the one today though! Advantage is also that it has some protection on in the shape of powder coating. It all helps.

Hi Steve and Russ68.

Dont look under the covers! I did that once and look at the mess I'm in now!!!

Ill take it steady with the pictures.....

Today was weld up the steel that I had fabricated and make the bottom horizontal plate. This one.






And after 3 hours, here it is! Complete with all original holes and turned over lip on the big one.













As you can probably tell Ive welded on a right angle flange to keep the strength in that area when someone uses a jack there.

Weld that in tomorrow after painting iut on the inside with etch primer and blue paint.

Speaking of blue paint, the inside of the cavity was prepped, etch primed and painted blue. Looks good even though no-one will see it, and it will be covered in dinitrol 3125 anyway!











Even more welding to do tomorrow then, but at least it will be pretty in blue!

Andy.
 
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2015, 02:53 PM
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Enjoying your work. Keep those photos coming.
 
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Old 09-15-2015, 03:29 PM
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We don't have the same products in the states that you do.
Can you explain Dinitrol 3125 and KURUST?

I think KURUST is something like POR-15 over here.

A lot of rust and you fab sheet metal pretty good!
.
.
.
 

Last edited by tbird6; 09-15-2015 at 03:34 PM.
  #9  
Old 09-15-2015, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by carfix
Enjoying your work. Keep those photos coming.
Hi carfix.
Thanks. I certainly will.

Andy.
 
  #10  
Old 09-15-2015, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tbird6
We don't have the same products in the states that you do.
Can you explain Dinitrol 3125 and KURUST?

I think KURUST is something like POR-15 over here.

A lot of rust and you fab sheet metal pretty good!
.
.
.
Thanks tbird6.
I've had plenty of practice!!

KURUST is a rust conversion liquid. Goes blue and black when rust is "encapsulated". Then you can paint over. Kurust

Dinitrol 3125 is a rust preventative wax that is sprayed on under high pressure form a dedicated sprayer driven from a compressor. DINITROL 3125 HS CAVITY WAX

Hope this helps.
Andy.
 
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  #11  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:10 PM
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I think kurust is phosphoric acid. Well, something like that!
 
  #12  
Old 09-16-2015, 10:19 AM
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Sounds like good products and personal recommendation is always welcome.
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Old 04-04-2017, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew Fanshawe
Thanks tbird6.
I've had plenty of practice!!

KURUST is a rust conversion liquid. Goes blue and black when rust is "encapsulated". Then you can paint over. Kurust

Dinitrol 3125 is a rust preventative wax that is sprayed on under high pressure form a dedicated sprayer driven from a compressor. DINITROL 3125 HS CAVITY WAX

Hope this helps.
Andy.
Hi Andrew where in the UK are you? Is this your main business ?
my s type r hasump some seriously rusty sills. Need them fixed or the cars off to the scrap heap.
 
  #14  
Old 04-04-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by melhookv12
Hi Andrew where in the UK are you? Is this your main business ?
my s type r hasump some seriously rusty sills. Need them fixed or the cars off to the scrap heap.
I don't think Andy has been on the forum since late 2015.

If you open his profile and scroll down he has provided some contact info.
 
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