S-type 3.0L and Lincoln LS Cat. Converter the same?
#21
#22
I was really hoping someone else would have tried those CATs by now. Looks like I might have to be the guinee pig... anyone?!?!?
I'm not certain about the newer LS models on the "IMTuner valves". But the '02 LS V6 does. Except Ford does not call them "IMTuner valves". I have forgotten what they call them.
But since I do not have a Jaguar dealer within 70 miles, I called the Ford/Lincoln dealer in town and asked him to look at the LS schematic. He was sceptical, but finally checked. The '02 V6 IMTuner also has the two "tuner valves". But don't ask for them by name or they will not find them. Tell them where they are and what they do...
I'm not certain about the newer LS models on the "IMTuner valves". But the '02 LS V6 does. Except Ford does not call them "IMTuner valves". I have forgotten what they call them.
But since I do not have a Jaguar dealer within 70 miles, I called the Ford/Lincoln dealer in town and asked him to look at the LS schematic. He was sceptical, but finally checked. The '02 V6 IMTuner also has the two "tuner valves". But don't ask for them by name or they will not find them. Tell them where they are and what they do...
#23
#25
I realize the original post is over 6 months old, but keep in mind that a failing cat on the 3.0L S-Type is often caused by a cylinder misfire. You have the injector still shooting fuel into the chamber, but a faulty coil may not be firing and igniting the fuel. Then the unburnt fuel gets sent out into the exhaust manifold and into the cat, causing failure of the element within the cat. It's fairly common when you see that P0420 code. Replacing a cat without checking the coil operation first is a surefire way to be purchasing a second replacement cat down the road.
As far as the LS replacement being worthwhile, I might unofficially suggest checking a junkyard cat before perusing your local Ford/Lincoln dealer. Remember that a lot of these items are VIN-specific, and officially, tampering with emissions-related equipment is a violation of federal law.
As far as the LS replacement being worthwhile, I might unofficially suggest checking a junkyard cat before perusing your local Ford/Lincoln dealer. Remember that a lot of these items are VIN-specific, and officially, tampering with emissions-related equipment is a violation of federal law.
#26
I realize the original post is over 6 months old, but keep in mind that a failing cat on the 3.0L S-Type is often caused by a cylinder misfire. You have the injector still shooting fuel into the chamber, but a faulty coil may not be firing and igniting the fuel. Then the unburnt fuel gets sent out into the exhaust manifold and into the cat, causing failure of the element within the cat. It's fairly common when you see that P0420 code. Replacing a cat without checking the coil operation first is a surefire way to be purchasing a second replacement cat down the road.
As far as the LS replacement being worthwhile, I might unofficially suggest checking a junkyard cat before perusing your local Ford/Lincoln dealer. Remember that a lot of these items are VIN-specific, and officially, tampering with emissions-related equipment is a violation of federal law.
As far as the LS replacement being worthwhile, I might unofficially suggest checking a junkyard cat before perusing your local Ford/Lincoln dealer. Remember that a lot of these items are VIN-specific, and officially, tampering with emissions-related equipment is a violation of federal law.
Thanks for your suggestions. I already replaced all the coil packs and plugs in another thread that has drifted down the listing a ways. I took some photos and such so others could do that.
That work did make the engine run smoother. But unfortunately it did not get rid of the P0420 error code. After I was finished and the cleared the code, it came back on again in about 25-50 miles.
The CATs, I am certain are VIN-specific. But the originals are also clearly stamped with the Ford emblem. Are those you sell also? If not, are do they really bare the Jag logo?
I still have not replaced the CATs yet. The CEL and P0420 code had been on for over 20K miles. I tried a lot of fuel additives that are supposed to make for cleaner combustion. Only one would turn off the CEL and clear the P0420 code and that was RXP. But it is $7-8 for a one tank bottle. When I stopped using it, the CEL and code quickly came back.
I just tried something that the Autozone guys had been telling me to try for a lot of months. I got a quart bottle of the Lucus Fuel Treatment, enough to treat 300 gallons. After ½ a tank, the CEL light went off and the code cleared. I have been using it for 4-5 tanks now. I still have not used one $9 bottle gone. On the second tank, I forgot to add it. The CEL light and P0420 code have stayed off the whole time (5-6 tanks total).
One added benefit is that the gas mileage on the car has jumped up from 19.5-20.5 mpg to 24-26mpg running the same in town route, on multiple tanks. That is a >20% increase in mpg. I am also now running regular 89 octane gas as the Lucas "increases the fuel quality”. So it is saving a lot of $$$ in fuel.
I am hearing no knocking and the engine seems to have more power. I know… I do not believe it either, but the CATs and the computer believe it.
Once I finish this bottle, I will run without it for a few tanks and see if the CEL and P0420 codes come back or not. That is 2-3 tanks away.
#27
For the mpg to increase, especially so much, seems to me that the PCM was adding extra fuel but no longer is. An OBD tool would have let you see the fuel trims. And still would - just get one
Adding fuel, if the coils & plugs are good - that's IF - has to be an air leak. Or, not running closed loop when it should be. Again, OBD will let you find out which of those.
If you're happy not to find out and just want to keep adding that treatment, or if you believe it's cleaned/unstuck something, fair enough.
Often times there will be something like one of the above issues which you could've fixed but left unfixed will require a more expensive fix.
A cheap elm327 will do but to graph the O2s you need some non-free software. It's cheap, though. Even without it you can check whether the central sensors are plausible, that the monitors are OK, and the fuel trims. With better software you should be able to look at misfire counts in case you have a problem not judged by the PCM as serious enough for a MIL.
Is 89 within the jag spec? How far out is it if not? Can a small amount of an additive get it from 89 to (say) 91? (I'm just curious here.)
There are other things that could be wrong but enough for now and besides - you need data.
The OBD is your #1 route now I reckon.
Adding fuel, if the coils & plugs are good - that's IF - has to be an air leak. Or, not running closed loop when it should be. Again, OBD will let you find out which of those.
If you're happy not to find out and just want to keep adding that treatment, or if you believe it's cleaned/unstuck something, fair enough.
Often times there will be something like one of the above issues which you could've fixed but left unfixed will require a more expensive fix.
A cheap elm327 will do but to graph the O2s you need some non-free software. It's cheap, though. Even without it you can check whether the central sensors are plausible, that the monitors are OK, and the fuel trims. With better software you should be able to look at misfire counts in case you have a problem not judged by the PCM as serious enough for a MIL.
Is 89 within the jag spec? How far out is it if not? Can a small amount of an additive get it from 89 to (say) 91? (I'm just curious here.)
There are other things that could be wrong but enough for now and besides - you need data.
The OBD is your #1 route now I reckon.
Last edited by JagV8; 02-03-2010 at 04:47 AM.
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