Well I guess I achieved something so thanks all.

As you can see the wiring is just simply not well thought out. A real shame so some improvements are in the offering to me to adjust.

 

Great pictures and others will be able to follow your repair a whole lot better now.

It looks like the wire is smashed? I wonder how it got pinched?
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I'll post some more pics of what I've done as repair. However, to answer your question as to how it got to this is simple. The Grill lays over the crash bar struct and the Loom lays across the top as the pic denotes. The only protection is the waterproof tape which is ironic that they leave the loom exposed by only spiral covering even though its the first area of where ingression will take place. The CAN twisted pair through vibration I'm guessing got exposed and then wore against the inner Grill edge, which has a sharp edging! It worked the vinyl cover away and exposed the copper which then started its decomposition of oxidating (hence the green spot on the yellow cable which is powder and not conductive) and the rest was history!!!!!!!! FUN BIT WAS FINDING IT

 

got an interesting conundrum. All's fine and what a superb ride you forget so quickly what comfort the car gives when driving. Anyways, my little issue is the P1647 that has appeared. Its there ont the dash panel hidden behind engine management illumination and clears with the code reader but will dashidly come back on at start up and interestingly not go out after warm up. is the 1647 O2 sensor and if so being a UK RHD which side would it be dya know? It could be and most likely the wiring as may have dislodged or wangled the loom that its not happy with by any advise accepted willingly.

 

Look at (2002.5MY-on) codes PDF, in JTIS & also in the stickies.

Worldwide standard: Cylinder 1 is in bank 1. The PDF has the rest.

Electrical Guide in JTIS helps somewhat with not just the circuits but also where the cables run but that latter part is sketchy.

I think the actual cable runs are designed to cope with the whole engine etc being able to be removed/fitted as a huge lump.

 

These are of the covered and repairerd Loom from drivers front side across the crash/support bar hiden eventually behind the bumber and grill.
The tubing is from the garden centre for ponds and aquatics. Novel Keeping water out rather than trailing through it...Lol


I split the loom into two and ensured the Can pair were seperated into seperate tubes. I also used some tube to lay on the support bar edge which is again sharp and was rubbing through the main loom aswell.

 

Your code is for the heaters in the O2 sensor. So the code should come back immediately upon a cold start as that's when the heaters are in full use.

I would swap the upstream O2 sensors from side to side. If it's a bad O2 sensor your 1647 code should turn to a 1646 code which is the other side. If the code stays the same you might have more wiring problems. Very rarely the PCM is bad and will not supply the voltage needed to power the heaters. They take a big draw as they are on a 30A circuit!

Here is my thread on this code.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...6-p1647-86397/
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Well eventually got to the sensors, UK RH drive so assume the P1647 is on the Left bank at the exhaust right?

Im confussed as to where the wire diagram for the s-type 2002.5 shows differing wire colour combinations and in trying to track them back up the loom into the engine compartment toward the ECM it isnt very helpful. Still must keep trying. these sensors are in the exhaust box's them selves which will make for a hard task in getting them out to change them over without stripping the head etc. Plenty of penitration fluid i guess.

I've been reading that there are connector blocks but the only onese i can find are with 4 wires and in a D shape are there others hiding?

 

Bank 1 is R, 2 is L

Electrical guide shows cyl layout, as do codes PDF, Vehicle Specs and JTIS. Bank 1 always contains cyl 1, Jag follow International Standards.