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For over 15 months, I have never found a permanent solution to fixing the broken fuel door latch on my 2005 S-Type Jaguar. I needed the lowest cost fix possible as I am retired with a negative cash flow draining my savings more and more. But...I finally invented my own PERMANENT fix that required no painting, and no expensive replacement parts! I videotaped the repair process and it is actually a very easy, common sense fix. Check out my video on YouTube:
I may be making some replacement latch pins so other S-Type owners can fix their own fuel flap door without all the extra building and labor I had to do in the first half of the demo video.
Let me know if you were able to solve your own broken latch by using my video repair instructions! I'm not a car tech or a money-grubbing profiteer off from my forum advice. I'm just happy that my long term problem was finally solved with a little Redneck engineering!!! (Now that I've moved to North Carolina, I find myself doing more and more redneck fixes!)
I can't figure out how to edit my original message. It looks like the YouTube video link got broken somehow. Here is the direct link to YT where this repair video can be seen:
Like many others, I have had the problem with the fuel cover release mechanism, took it apart yesterday. Seems that the cable seems to have resistance internally, after working with the plunger at the end of the cable I got it to free up. Anyone else had that problem? The latch itself seems to be fine.
Like many others, I have had the problem with the fuel cover release mechanism, took it apart yesterday. Seems that the cable seems to have resistance internally, after working with the plunger at the end of the cable I got it to free up. Anyone else had that problem? The latch itself seems to be fine.
I reakon mine has the same problem with the cable being the issue rather than the latch since no amount of lubricant has freed anything up. I have been putting up with it for a while so time to fix this as well. Is access only from the boot?
-Remove the plastic tag from manual release-cable
-Open two 5,5mm bolts over and under lock mechanism. You'll need spring-shaft tool because of limited space.
-Squeeze in little plastic claws on four corners of mechanism mounting plate.
-Lift mechanism from guide pins and slide the actuator out of its hole. Remove lock latch.
-Open three bolts that hold the fuel pipe if necessary
Remove rust completely
Remember the spring when assembling
Painted plunger should move without any friction
Remove the lock latch first
Remove inner liner from around the tire if necessary
-Remove actuator from housing and disconnect 2-pin connector by lifting the lock arm. pull out the release cable from housing
-remove the iron clamp that squeezes the coil. Remove the iron ring under it. Remove corrosion from the and from iron heart inside the coil and from other metal parts.
-Lift the plunger out from within the coil. Remove the plastic plunger-head and cut away the whole upper headplate from the coil if necessary to get access to the iron plunger. Actuator is in fact a switch operated electric magnet.
-paint all metal surfaces, that are not connected when assembled, against corrosion.
-Put some adhesive on and reattach the coil head plate
-lubricate the plunger with silicone spray.
-reassemble the lock
-If small bolts are turning with the nuts when opening: Open four screws that hold the plastic cup that is around the fuel pipe
-Push the cup towards the fuel tank and remove the back part of plastic cup that holds the actuator housing without damaging edge seal
-If necessary, remove the plastic inner liner from around the wheel to get back access remove the overfill pipe from plastic cup and move the
-Do not cut away the plastic collar from coil head plate as I did. PITA to reattach without gluein the plunger as well
Did you come up with a solution to the broken fuel door clip?
Originally Posted by JOsworth
I stopped for gas last night, so I figured I'd look. Damn, mine is cracked as well. Still works, but is breaking none the less. I don't think I'd do the velcro thing. There is no detent to put your finger in. What I am going to do is ask that my dealer give me back the broken part when they replace it, since it is under warranty. Then I'm going to mess with fabbing a metal replacement. I'll let everyone know how I make out. I think I can come up with a metal clip that can mount in place of the plastic one.
Hi, I just bought a 2001 S type and sure enough, the fuel door clip is broken and I have to use a magnet to keep the door closed. Did you come up with a solution? Please let me know!
Let me know if you were able to solve your own broken latch by using my video repair instructions! I'm not a car tech or a money-grubbing profiteer off from my forum advice. I'm just happy that my long term problem was finally solved with a little Redneck engineering!!! (Now that I've moved to North Carolina, I find myself doing more and more redneck fixes!)
Did you come up with a solution to the broken fuel door clip?
