Hello,

I have an s type 2003, I've owned it all of 4 days.

The first morning after the day I bought it, the car needed jump starting.

It took a couple of gods to get it going.

The next day jumping of three different cars didn't work...

I've hooked the battery up to an automatic battery charger, I've not once had a fully charged battery.. It just keeps charging.

After a few hours I jump in the car the lights and everything else works, I turn the ignition and nothing...

I repeat this process a few times, eventually the car starts.

But, the parking break error comes up, and if I don't drive the car as soon as it starts, it doesn't let me change any gears, let alone leave my drive.

Eventually when I got it going, few different errors come on the clock and radio code comes up..

I've sorted the radio code now.

But when indri venture car around it just seems awkward. The drivers window doesn't work on it's own, it needs holding down..

Once I switch the engine off, the only way to get it going again is to repeat the automatic charger, then wait, try, try again, tray again then eventually it will start... With the same "weirdness"

Could anyone help with any experiences of similar?
I've ordered a new battery that I'm fitting tomorrow, fingers crossed, all problems will be solved.

 

Does sound like a duff battery, had similar issues with my old S Type which a new battery cured.

I believe after talking to a friend who owns a garage (But he/I could be wrong!), that Jaguar use a signal Bus system (basically sending multiple signals down 1 wire, instead of having a bunch of wires for different parts of the car). Low voltage can play havock with these signals & the electrical systems so it hopefully explains your symptoms.

Im sure someone will correct me if Im wrong, but good luck with the new battery & Let us know if it helps!

 

You've Answered Your Own Question Multiple Times...Hint: [Battery Won't Stay Charged]. Just About Everything That Car Does Requires A Properly Functioning Battery, As Do Most Modern Cars.

 

The battery is the number 1 suspect. What do these phrases mean:

 

It took a couple of goes to get it going.

But when I drive the car around it just seems awkward.

????

 

Before you do anything else, buy a new, proper spec, battery. Charge it for 24 hours before fitting it. That normally resolves the sort of issues your having but post back to let us know either way.

 

Did the battery cure your issues, Peteaha?

 

Bought a new battery, fitted it.

It wouldn't start right away, so I had a coffee and read through the manual. Tried it again, half hour later, and it started..

It drove round lovely, all failures on dashboard gone.

I drive it around and stopped and started a few times..

The next morning, today, I jumped in it, went to start and all the previous problems have come back.

The car will not start, it doesn't crank, just nothing..

I've been down to the garage and asked for a fix..

I was rejected and told they sold it for a friend and that they have nothing to do with it, and frankly some aggressive abuse.

Later a guy who claims not be a mechanic has arrived at my drive, whom was also very aggressive. He advised he wanted to see if it would start and that I actually did put a battery in it.

It didn't work for him either. He said give it an hour and see if it starts and has driven off..

I'll keep you posted, thanks for the support and interest.

Peteaha

 

I would say that you have an electrical drain on the battery, which is causing it to go flat overnight. First suspects would be glove box light and boot light; see if they are hot. Have any non-standard accessories been fitted to the car. Failing that, remove the positive lead from the battery and use an ammeter to see if there is current draw. Start pulling fuses till you find the problem. There is usually a current draw of about .5 amp while modules settle down.

 

I'd disconnect new battery & charge it for (say) 12 hrs. Reconnect and see if car starts, and if so how easily.

If easily, go looking for a (current) drain. Modules shut down over about 40 mins so you need to check then and it should be below about 50mA. But you must not do anything at all that retriggers the modules during that time, so you need to plan ahead as to how you're going to measure (such as bits of wire into the rear cabin with seats folded down).

If you weren't made very clear it was being sold other than by the garage then it's a trade sale whether they like it or not and so you could reject it or whatever - normal Sales of Goods etc Acts all apply. Depends whether you fancy the car and your chances of fixing it. If you'd rather reject & have your full money back go for it. Or you can try to force them to fix it - which they should - but it can be a fight in the courts worst case, granted one you ought to win but that still leaves the pain.

 

Its possible the battery isnt being charged properly either - after investigating electrical drain issues Id be wanting to see what voltage the alternator was generating. Its possible the original is on its last legs if fitted, its 11 years old after all.

 

All good suggestions.

 

Wow, I Can't Believe They Sent Their "Muscle"....I Guess This Was To Intimidate You? I'd Be Very Cautious Of Their Intentions..They're Willing To Send Some "Goon" Your Way But, Not Offer Any Assistance??? I Wouldn't Be Surprised If You Woke Up To A Missing Car. On The Other Hand, Maybe They Are Reluctantly "Testing The Waters" ..In Fear Of Legal Consequences For Their Shady Business Ethics.

After Thought: Sounds Like They Sold It Knowing(Thinking) All She Needed Was A Battery. Now They Are Worried About Their Own Tail..You Might Have Them Exactly Where You Want Them..They Know It And Are Using Intimidation To Hopefully Scare You Off..?

They Know More Then They Are Letting On.

 

Ignition switch causing battery drain. Search for Brutal's post about it.