You'll have to explain this process please.

 

Brutal has explained it several times over the years, and the threads usually have some follow-up discussion. Just maybe not in the S-Type specific forum.

 

I found it hard to find! Brutal posts a lot so 363 matches and 497 matches were a challenge.

Still, how about this one? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...42/#post342451

I'm not convinced it's really relevant to the thread title but since when did that matter...

 

+1 on tie rods. That was my issue a while back.

 

Plums just likes to find fault with every post I make, no matter how much of stretch it is.

 

Called "Bedding"

Here you go: Brake Tech - Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures

And yes, this process can also be used when deposits have accumulated.

Always do the above before wasting money and precious rotor thickness by turning them too frequently.

Now I did it.. I'll have both Plums and Mikey gunning for me........

 

Yes this can cause braking vibration as well. The real easy test is to jack up one side and grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and try to move it from side to side. If there is any play at all, time for tie rod ends. Closer inspection will help you determine if it is the inner or outer....

 

Not at all. I'm familiar with bedding- having discussed and recommended it several times here. I was curious how this was done safely in a typical dealer's parking lot. After reviewing the info in your link, it can't.

If bedding doesn't work, then (again) have your local garage use their angle grinder and abrasive disk to remove the deposits, a very common procedure. If they don't know how to do this correctly then I wouldn't trust them to know how to 'turn' them correctly either.

 

LOL... It's even hard to find a place here in town as well.... I got the "squeekies" on my fresh brake job I'm sure because they weren't bedded properly. Also kind of pisses me off since I didn't have this issue with the last Wagner Thermoquiet pads I got. The only difference this time was they were bought from Rock Auto and not AutoZone. Hmmm....

Do you have a abrasive disk recommendation? Also, would they work with an adapter for a drill? I don't have an angle grinder. The last abrasive wheel I used didn't have enough bite to get through the build up. I would really love to do this in my own garage. Now I go to an O'Reilly Auto Parts that turns rotors. They will, at my request, only run a finish cut. And they are cheap. The last time I did it they charged $5.00 a rotor. But it limits me to working on my car while I have access to the wife's car. I'd just rather do it myself.

 

Here's what my corner garage uses:

On-line Product Catalog:*3M






despite having an exceptionally long driveway and large parking lot..............

 

Saved to my favorites... Awesome. thanks Mikey!

 

You called machining rotors expensive and futile. The price quoted albeit in 2009 was $24. Hardly expensive. Then you go on to recommend the use of an abrasive disk after calling rotor machining futile. Both remove material.

As for Brutals' method, JagV8 seems to have found it easily enough.

 

Er... took a while. Dunno about trying to do it in a parking lot!!

 

You edited out 'wasteful'. Turning a rotor on a lathe carries a secondary cost beyond just the immediate shop costs. It needlessly machines off base material of the rotor, reducing it's thickness by whatever amount the operator deems adequate. This 1) reduces the service life of the rotor 2) increases the possibility of actually 'warping'. Therein lies the wastefulness and expense.

The abrasive disks when used correctly remove only the adhered pad material.

 

Nothing was "edited" in the proper sense of the word as it was not a quote.

The passage was an entirely new sentence addressed at your claims. The objection in particular is your characterisation of machining rotors as being "futile" and "expensive" when neither is true.

The fact that material is removed was not part of that. Hence, "wasteful" was not mentioned.

If your assertion was only that careless machining may remove more material than absolutely necessary, there would not have been any objection at all.

However, when you further characterise the machining of rotors as being "futile" and "expensive", then an objection is warranted on the basis that it results in a fresh true rotor surface at a reasonable cost.

It is further worth noting that a handheld disc grinder is sorely lacking in precision and control as compared to a brake lathe. Put a divot in a rotor with the grinder and that's the end of the rotor.

Finally, a shop that has a on vehicle brake lathe is probably going to strongly resist being told to go at it with an angle grinder as they cannot guarantee the quality and the on vehicle setup means that they could probably do it just as fast using the lathe.

and ...

You can't have it both ways by presuming that the grinder is somehow operated correctly, but the machining is not performed correctly.

 

At the time, I think it was just warped rotors. I had napa turn the rotors. It's been done twice now over the life of them and was informed they wouldn't be able to do it again while staying within tolerance. These were the rotors I bought from the dealership because I couldn't for an online order. It's been years now, but I'm pretty sure they were likely warped from the very start. Expensive and very crappy.

A new vibration and crept up, mostly noticeable at 80 or higher and braking. I'm thinking the rotors need a "good" replacement, wheels probably need balanced, and that pot hole that dented the rim didn't help any in 2011. The dented rim still kept air in the tire, but I had it straightened. I still think a bearing is going out. I can hear a slight sound coming from the wheel when I turn it that sounds like bad bearings, but there is no play in it.

And to top it all off, I think my exhaust has developed a hole or leak somewhere. I can hear it in the acceleration and sometimes when I first start the car I can smell exhaust in the cabin. I hate this car!