(2005 S-Type 3.0 not -cat shocks) I started today to replace the front shocks (passenger side first).

I could not with all the strength I have and several breaker bars make any headway in budging the bottom bolt on the shock. I even used an electric impact tool to no avail.
The car does not have rust in the area and the nut side of the shock show no corrosion or rust. I am now going to give it a daily dose of penetrating fluid, but what is a suggestion solution. Perhaps the impact tool was older and does not apply enough force, but I am skeptical of that.

I could try get a more powerful impact or air impact, but am not interested in shearing the head off.

Any and all suggestions welcomed and highly appreciated.

Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

Why are you trying to turn the BOLT???
The NUT is what should be turned.

I would HOLD the BOLT and TURN the NUT.
The bolt could be seized in the lower damper mount??

Maybe some HEAT needs to be applied if there is locking compound on the threads?

bob

 

The nut is welded to the shock. It is a torx bolt that I am trying loosen. (see attachment) There is nothing to hold on to that is not already being held onto, as in the earlier model S- Types. I do not know about a locking compound. These are the originals- did they put a locking compound on them at the factory?
Thanks

Tom

 

It's been a long time since I worked on the front suspension of an X200/X202.

I seem to remember a blue or pink colored locking compound on the bolts??

The JEPC shows a separate nut for the front dampers and 3 different M14 bolts depending on the VIN.

bob

 

 

Everyone seems to have the problem. My only concern is shearing off the head of the bolt and then dealing with a messing conclusion. How hot did you get the nut. Mototcarman thinks there could have been a locking compound involved. Perhaps the heating broke the bond of such. Was one side harder than the other ie the passenger vs. driver side- in that order.???

Tom

 

 

How much did you heat the nut and with what? Did you use a breaker bar or an impact wrench?

Right now I am using PB Blaster for every night of this week until I get ready to do it again.
Thanks

Tom

 

 

Thanks

Tom

 

Here you go:

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-screw-buster.html


You will also need a pneumatic air hammer. A $15 Chinese knockoff will work just fine.

We use screw knockers all the time in my field (aviation). They work very differently from an impact gun. An impact gun applies torque only. A screw knocker applies an axial impact, not radial like an impact gun. The axial force sets up a vibration that is very, very effective. Also, because an impact gun applies oodles of rotational force, that tends to strip the fastener head. With a screw knocker, the only torque is what you apply via the handle, so you have complete control. It's my go-to tool for stuck fasteners.

The only caveat is a screw knocker only works when all of the impact force is applied directly to the fastener head. Judging by the previous picture, with the recessed Torx head, you should fine. If you were working on a conventional hex head bolt, the socket extends past the hex and will apply force to the base metal, not the fastener itself. In such a case, I've used washers inside the socket so the fastener receives the impact, not the base metal.

 

I had to cut mine out. Took about 30 mins with a cutting wheel. I also cut the welded nut off. Good luck finding the correct bolt for re-assembly. I ordered a 10 pack from Amazon, which shipped from the UK.

 

Oh. And if you resort to cutting it out, you WILL destroy the bushing. Didn't matter for me as I was replacing the lower control arm.

 

Do you have a part number for the bolt itself? I want to replace them regardless. I am probably going to use a heating method of some sort, but also consider using after a week of PB Blaster, using a ratcheted breaker bar and cheater and see if all of my workouts give me the strength to move it enough I can get it out. I understand that when you see the bolts- they appear quite sturdy?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

Thanks, but I have no need to replace the lower control arms. They are fine. Interesting that Alldata says to replace the lower control arm, you need to disconnect the steering rack and then let it hang from the car with some sort of tie-down. I can't see that makes any sense and what purpose that would accomplish?
Tom

 

I used these

 

Link for bolts I used.

 

I cant see any need to drop the rack. If you remove the steering knuckle, and unbolt the lower arm from the chassis mount, and forward control arm, the entire strut can be taken out with the control arm still attached. You have to wiggle it quite a bit, for it to slide out, but the steering rack is not in the way.

 

That is what I thought, but was just curious as to what Alldata was talking about????

 

What year S-Type do you have? Those do not look to be a fit for my car, but then again I could be wrong.

T