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Shock Bolt Stuck- Help!

 
  #1  
Old 12-28-2018, 05:22 PM
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Default Shock Bolt Stuck- Help!

(2005 S-Type 3.0 not -cat shocks) I started today to replace the front shocks (passenger side first).

I could not with all the strength I have and several breaker bars make any headway in budging the bottom bolt on the shock. I even used an electric impact tool to no avail.
The car does not have rust in the area and the nut side of the shock show no corrosion or rust. I am now going to give it a daily dose of penetrating fluid, but what is a suggestion solution. Perhaps the impact tool was older and does not apply enough force, but I am skeptical of that.

I could try get a more powerful impact or air impact, but am not interested in shearing the head off.

Any and all suggestions welcomed and highly appreciated.

Tom in Dallas/Plano
 
  #2  
Old 12-28-2018, 08:08 PM
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Why are you trying to turn the BOLT???
The NUT is what should be turned.

I would HOLD the BOLT and TURN the NUT.
The bolt could be seized in the lower damper mount??

Maybe some HEAT needs to be applied if there is locking compound on the threads?

bob
 
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman View Post
Why are you trying to turn the BOLT???
The NUT is what should be turned.

I would HOLD the BOLT and TURN the NUT.
The bolt could be seized in the lower damper mount??

Maybe some HEAT needs to be applied if there is locking compound on the threads?

bob
The nut is welded to the shock. It is a torx bolt that I am trying loosen. (see attachment) There is nothing to hold on to that is not already being held onto, as in the earlier model S- Types. I do not know about a locking compound. These are the originals- did they put a locking compound on them at the factory?
Thanks

Tom

 
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:30 AM
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It's been a long time since I worked on the front suspension of an X200/X202.

I seem to remember a blue or pink colored locking compound on the bolts??

The JEPC shows a separate nut for the front dampers and 3 different M14 bolts depending on the VIN.

bob
 
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  #5  
Old 12-29-2018, 07:16 PM
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I had a similar problem and I got the bolt out using propane to heat the nut and an air impact wrench on the bolt. The air tools didnít work without heat.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AaronD81 View Post
I had a similar problem and I got the bolt out using propane to heat the nut and an air impact wrench on the bolt. The air tools didnít work without heat.
Everyone seems to have the problem. My only concern is shearing off the head of the bolt and then dealing with a messing conclusion. How hot did you get the nut. Mototcarman thinks there could have been a locking compound involved. Perhaps the heating broke the bond of such. Was one side harder than the other ie the passenger vs. driver side- in that order.???

Tom
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:04 AM
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Yes I only had a problem on one side. I didnít heat the nut too much because I didnít want to melt the bushing. I donít remember seeing any thread locker and the shocks were not original, the dealer put new ones on when I bought the car a few years ago.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AaronD81 View Post
Yes I only had a problem on one side. I didnít heat the nut too much because I didnít want to melt the bushing. I donít remember seeing any thread locker and the shocks were not original, the dealer put new ones on when I bought the car a few years ago.
How much did you heat the nut and with what? Did you use a breaker bar or an impact wrench?

Right now I am using PB Blaster for every night of this week until I get ready to do it again.
Thanks

Tom
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:17 AM
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PB blaster didnít work for me. I used a normal propane torch that you use for copper soldering, heated for maybe 2 minutes and it came right out. Used an air wrench, thought a breaker bar might slip and strip the bolt head. The heat didnít even strip the green paint on the strut, I was shocked how quickly it worked.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by AaronD81 View Post
PB blaster didnít work for me. I used a normal propane torch that you use for copper soldering, heated for maybe 2 minutes and it came right out. Used an air wrench, thought a breaker bar might slip and strip the bolt head. The heat didnít even strip the green paint on the strut, I was shocked how quickly it worked.
Thanks

Tom
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:15 PM
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Here you go:

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-screw-buster.html


You will also need a pneumatic air hammer. A $15 Chinese knockoff will work just fine.

We use screw knockers all the time in my field (aviation). They work very differently from an impact gun. An impact gun applies torque only. A screw knocker applies an axial impact, not radial like an impact gun. The axial force sets up a vibration that is very, very effective. Also, because an impact gun applies oodles of rotational force, that tends to strip the fastener head. With a screw knocker, the only torque is what you apply via the handle, so you have complete control. It's my go-to tool for stuck fasteners.

The only caveat is a screw knocker only works when all of the impact force is applied directly to the fastener head. Judging by the previous picture, with the recessed Torx head, you should fine. If you were working on a conventional hex head bolt, the socket extends past the hex and will apply force to the base metal, not the fastener itself. In such a case, I've used washers inside the socket so the fastener receives the impact, not the base metal.
 

Last edited by kr98664; 12-30-2018 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:34 AM
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I had to cut mine out. Took about 30 mins with a cutting wheel. I also cut the welded nut off. Good luck finding the correct bolt for re-assembly. I ordered a 10 pack from Amazon, which shipped from the UK.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:36 AM
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Oh. And if you resort to cutting it out, you WILL destroy the bushing. Didn't matter for me as I was replacing the lower control arm.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ncbrit View Post
I had to cut mine out. Took about 30 mins with a cutting wheel. I also cut the welded nut off. Good luck finding the correct bolt for re-assembly. I ordered a 10 pack from Amazon, which shipped from the UK.
Do you have a part number for the bolt itself? I want to replace them regardless. I am probably going to use a heating method of some sort, but also consider using after a week of PB Blaster, using a ratcheted breaker bar and cheater and see if all of my workouts give me the strength to move it enough I can get it out. I understand that when you see the bolts- they appear quite sturdy?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ncbrit View Post
Oh. And if you resort to cutting it out, you WILL destroy the bushing. Didn't matter for me as I was replacing the lower control arm.
Thanks, but I have no need to replace the lower control arms. They are fine. Interesting that Alldata says to replace the lower control arm, you need to disconnect the steering rack and then let it hang from the car with some sort of tie-down. I can't see that makes any sense and what purpose that would accomplish?
Tom
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:57 AM
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I used these
Amazon Amazon
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman View Post
Do you have a part number for the bolt itself? I want to replace them regardless. I am probably going to use a heating method of some sort, but also consider using after a week of PB Blaster, using a ratcheted breaker bar and cheater and see if all of my workouts give me the strength to move it enough I can get it out. I understand that when you see the bolts- they appear quite sturdy?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano
Link for bolts I used.
Amazon Amazon
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman View Post
Thanks, but I have no need to replace the lower control arms. They are fine. Interesting that Alldata says to replace the lower control arm, you need to disconnect the steering rack and then let it hang from the car with some sort of tie-down. I can't see that makes any sense and what purpose that would accomplish?
Tom
I cant see any need to drop the rack. If you remove the steering knuckle, and unbolt the lower arm from the chassis mount, and forward control arm, the entire strut can be taken out with the control arm still attached. You have to wiggle it quite a bit, for it to slide out, but the steering rack is not in the way.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ncbrit View Post
I cant see any need to drop the rack. If you remove the steering knuckle, and unbolt the lower arm from the chassis mount, and forward control arm, the entire strut can be taken out with the control arm still attached. You have to wiggle it quite a bit, for it to slide out, but the steering rack is not in the way.
That is what I thought, but was just curious as to what Alldata was talking about????
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ncbrit View Post
What year S-Type do you have? Those do not look to be a fit for my car, but then again I could be wrong.

T
 

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