Spun Blower bearing

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Aug 3, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #1  
Yep my blower grenaded itself. I wish I would have gotten pics before taking to the dealer.

I was driving the car heard a squeal pulled off the highway and everything went to hell.

The Blower casing has a hole in it, the driver intercooler is trashed.

Timing tensioner on the driver bank is trash, bent several valves, spun a couple of bearings from the debries in the oil

When the tech tore the blower apart the screw cartridge bearing on the driverside had the ***** missing from the race. its unclear if that caused the catostrophic failure, Im just glad no shrapnel make it in the cabin or pierced the body panels.

So far the repair bill is just shy of $12K.

This includes:
New Driverside intercooler
Motor
supercharger.

Who knows what else it will need.

P.S.: I dont think my aftermarket warranty company likes me very much right now.
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Aug 3, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #2  
Thats crazy sorry to hear that. Let us know what ends up being the cause of it. Did you remove any toys you were playing with before taking it in?
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Aug 3, 2011 | 11:11 PM
  #3  
"lubricated for life" ... guess life just ended.

Good thing about the after market warranty.

Maybe they'll ask you to be their spokesperson
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Aug 4, 2011 | 01:47 AM
  #4  
Ouch! Sorry to hear you had such bad luck. They'll fix the car, though?
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Aug 4, 2011 | 02:38 AM
  #5  
How common is this? Does anyone know?

How many miles on the car?
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Aug 4, 2011 | 07:26 AM
  #6  
On a new supercharger nontheless? I'm jealous cause you'll have a new powerplant.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 08:07 AM
  #7  
I had track debris punch a 1/2" hole through one of my turbo compressor housings one day and it made no noise so I went back out. The other turbo over spun trying to compensate for the loss of boost and I ended up ingesting bits.

I'm still straightening that mess out.

This compressor failure has me worried or is this just spoils of the hot rodding you guys are doing?
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Aug 4, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #8  
The blower had about 8K miles on it, it was just replaced.

The warranty company gave me hassles over wanting to have it serviced at the Jag dealership vs an Indie so the indie shop replaced or rebuilt the blower..

Guess this is a VERY EXPENSIVE lesson for the warranty company.

Its a covered repair so they are shelling out to have it fixed.

The bill just keeps climbing, I have feeling this is going to turn into an ordeal.

they refered me to a local shop who doesnt know anything about Jaguars but does work with Ford/Eaton blowers. ( I gave in after arguing with them)
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Aug 4, 2011 | 11:22 AM
  #9  
Oh jeeze what a PITA. So how do you think the independent shop screwed up?

Bad rebuild by them or a crummy rebuilt blower?

I think you are correct. The warranty company is going to look to minmize their loses. The shop that screwed it should be responsible. Like I'm sure you want to go there again ...

Best of luck with this. I KNOW the feeling I'm on my second engine rebuild for the track car after 1.5 hours on the engine. Two crank galley plugs came out.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #10  
Mafioso, give no quarter to both the warranty company, and original repair shop.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 12:32 PM
  #11  
That's the first I have ever seen!! Can you post any pictures? The Eaton is used by OEM's mainly because it is very durable and reliable. It's not that efficient for making power.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #12  
the paperwork from the indie shop says cartridge replacement.

so its a bad assembly or poor quality bearing.

Sorry for not snapping pics that was the furthest thing from my mind.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 03:32 PM
  #13  
WOW I go out of town for a bit and mafi goes blowing his jag up! Sorry to hear that man, I know the down time sucks! At least you will get a new mill out of it, shame you cant get upgrade some cams and heads while its out

Interested to see what the motor work runs up to. Makes me cring when i spray it knowing what these blocks cost, but its to fun to take it safe
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Aug 4, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #14  
The motor work bill so far is $11,960.

At least I got a nice loaner a 2012 mercedes Benz GLK 350 with 30 miles on the clock.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #15  
qwikcat, what alky/meth kit are you using? 12.89 on motor alone is darn good for a non LSD car with autobahn rear cogs (288:1).
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Aug 4, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #16  
bfsgross; Did you mean non-IRS or IRS?

qikcat; Any wheel hop on that nice 12.89 pass??
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Aug 4, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #17  
I am running the stage 1 coolmist kit with 75/25 water meth ratios. It dosnt make much more power as best I can tell but should help with heat and timing pull on back to back runs. I made 10 passes over the day at one of our outlaw guys track rental in Bristol Tenn. It got faster as I got the hang of launching it. The peg leg diff sucks though. I think on spray its mid 12s all day with a good launch wich is tricky with this car, i got two good ones all day!
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Aug 4, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #18  
Quote: bfsgross; Did you mean non-IRS or IRS?

qikcat; Any wheel hop on that nice 12.89 pass??
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No axel hop on launch at all. I had to get a lot of water in the box to get both wheels to spin and get the raidals hot. It dead hooked with a little brake boost.
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Aug 4, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #19  
Tbird, sorry, I meant non- LSD (limited slip differential). qwikcat, so you recommend a "Cool Mist" stage 1 kit? What would you think happen if ya also had a "Killer Chiller"? Or would the alky/meth be enough to cool intake charge and intercooler?
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Aug 4, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #20  
Alky isnt enough, its like closing a wound with band-aids. to solve the heat issue you need to disapate it, not cool down the air passing through it.

both together should work like a scalded ape.
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