Hi Adam. I'm also interested in headers. The ECU is being tuned late September then off goes the blower for rebuild/port/polish, and a coolant line repair. Perhaps the manufacturer will allow a group buy?

 

I bought them, an LS guy, but had to sell a week later. I sold them to another LS guy, but he sold his LS 3 months later without installing them, so he sold them to another LS guy who just installed them a few months ago.

In case you guys care to see them installed, here's the LS thread on LVC

Headers In! - Lincoln vs Cadillac

 

Hi Alix. Funny how the headers went from one with all good intentions, to another, to another.... Thanks again for the link to the LS header install.

 

Well, if you got just the headers, you'd only be a couple hundred bucks short.

 

I'd love some long tubes just because of the cool sound factor and just because, but I honestly think that on a supercharged car they would be a waste since the blower probably creates a positive pressure in the exhaust to clear it out during cam overlaps. I really like the way that the stock LS headers look. I'll probably pick up a set and than I'll compare them to the '98 and '04 Jag stockers. Since they are stainless steel and tubular, it looks like they might be a cheap upgrade if paired up with a free flowing catless exhaust As much as I like the idea of long tubes, the initial cost, the minimal impact and the pita if I ever want to yank the motor separate from the trans makes me not want them. Also, the ones in the thread were flanged while all other headers for Jags have individual flanges for each runner.

 

adam very nice thought to bring a twist in this discussion

i have to second that on the bang for buck value , and that
they will benefit more on N/A engine and that supercharger reduces need for long headers due to positive pressure
but somewhat have to disagree on possitive pressure not fully understood

these long pipes actually prevent pushing exhaust pressure of one pipe into next cylinder opening and due to this chain effect preventing free flow from any cylinder or whether N/A engine or supercharged ,
supercharger may prevent sooting till intake plenum ( seen only in very long duration cams with wrong tuning mostly )or intake valve at most but pushing of exhaust pressure of one cylinder into next opening cylinder in lay man language is different issue

these long header will benefit scavenging a lot , stock headers are too close by to prevent this much


am no tech at all , i hope i am hitting right cords here

 

I think that's known as "internal EGR". It should have been (that's probably: will have been) factored into jag's design of the engine, so you'd maybe not want to mess with that aspect. Anyone know?

 

OK, so I got the LS header I ordered.

It is a stainless steel quality piece. However the ports are smaller as they are obstructed by welds and the opening where the cats weld up seems cramped and smaller.

If someone wants to do their own long-tubes these would be nice cores for the flanges.

 

Adam, are you going to install them anyway? Clean-up the ports with a grinder. If they're going on, please let us know how it goes cause i read they are a bear to install.

 

You might be thinking of the long tubes. The ones I got were Stock LS headers.
They are definitively not going on the car. I'm gonna use the '04 cast headers.

 

Did you say you did this on a Non "R" S-type with the 4.2L. I have an 2003 sport with the Mina Exhaust and I'm thinking of running these headers with out cats if your trick will work.

 

candys kitty, jag v8 is no longer around and out of Jaguar. He had an S-Type R.

 

Just a thought, but how about getting your car on a dyno before and after so you can truly know if there are significant power gains to be had? That would be something we would all want to know! And, I have had good luck with the Jet Hot coatings. You can actually reach down and grasp the pipes after turning off the engine for only a few minutes. (NOT recommended!) Pretty amazing. Am I spending too much of your money here? Ha, ha!

 

Oops. I didn't realize that there were already "13" pages on this thread before putting my two cents in! Over-anxious, I am afraid. Sorry 'bout that!

 

[QUOTE=bfsgross;595799]candys kitty, jag v8 is no longer around and out of Jaguar. He had an S-Type R.[/QUOTE

Do you know if anyone has tried that trick on a non R 4.2L? Has anyone else tried it on even an R? I'm looking for someone to confirm that it will indeed work.

 

Ok, jag_str was teferring to O2 sensor extenders. These are screwed into the O2 bungs (the female fitting that the O2 sensors screw into. IMO, this is not the way to go as a means to satisfy an actual vaccume leak.

 

The rear MIL O2 sensor eliminators work by placing the sensor in an area where the oxygen level changes very little. On a four O2 sensor setup the front two sensors provide feedback control for the engine mixture. The rear two sensors only check that the catalytic converters are working or that they are even there.

So putting an extension (which is what spark plug anti-fouler’s are) on the O2 mounting bung places the O2 sensor farther from the flowing exhaust back into a small pocket of dead flow. This small pocket will not get stirred up very much and the oxygen level stays pretty consistently low. The computer only looks at the two rear sensors for changes from a known baseline. Now you can't just unscrew them and let them hang because outside the exhaust is an oxygen rich area. After the catalytic converters the exhaust should have a consistent low oxygen level if they are working properly.

It will work but cars are different so the spark plug anti-fouler’s might not be enough to keep the check light out on the S Type. There is also an electric version but have not seen them for the S Type but they might be out there??
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I understand what your saying about the spacers removing the sensor from the direct flow of exhaust, but got lost when you said to remove it completely and just let it hang.

Do you think I could get the spacers and install them to see if it will throw codes before I remove the cats? Or will that not tell me anything? I don't want to go and weld in new pipes and this not work.

How do you think this will perform when the car is plugged into a smog machine for a California smog test?

 

I expect it wil fail smog test if done via exhaust (tail pipes). They do here, so no-one does this.

 

I think you should follow JagV8's advice. How will you be able to drive on the street without cats? Do you have any emissions testing in your area?
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