I wanted to know, what is the thickest hub centric wheel spacer I can use, without having to replace the wheel studs?

I was hopping to use 10-12mm... Maybe by using some ET lug nuts?

 

The car was not designed for any spacers, I believe. Adding some will negatively affect the way it's designed to handle. Why do you want to add any?

 

This is so true, adding well spacers will alter the geometry of the car's suspension, *the thicker the worst!*. Although while adding lowering springs will not change the geometry (as much), it will also for the most part change and in a big way compromise the way the car was design to handle specially because the "Suspension works best" if the inner pivot point of the "A" arms is fixed above (higher) than the outer one, [when susp is not compressed], and you’ll obviously lose this by lowering the car with shorter springs. If the a car is lowered, by adding shorter springs, the "right thing to do" is to "accordingly" rise the inner pivot point of the "A" arms. This I know from my racing days. I've susp tune couple of cars in the past!

Most people don’t see it that way, 'cause they're ignorant, but using harder-shorter springs it will make it easier to slide on wet roads, etc. But because it does gives you "inevitable" more camber, it will feel tighter (go-kart like) on the steering wheel, and is all 'cause there is "less travel in your susp... But the car doesn’t necessary works better. But we all know somehow most of us, ended up doing it! 'cause it looks better??...

Car companies have cut up to this, and have gone a great length to compensate. The truth being that by less susp travel there is also less change in the susp geometry *keeping the inner pivot point of the "A" arm for most conditions above the outer one*. Thus by adding longer "A" arms there is less travel, so its benefits to keep the geometry of the inner pivot point for the "A" arm to stay higher than the outer. That’s why new cars use such a little Wheel "offset" compared to the older cars, ‘cause the new “A” arms are longer than the ones used in the past. But I just wanted just a bit more of my wheels to stick out, just purely for looks. 8mm maybe?

 

I wouldnt go with anything thicker then what you can purchase at an auto part store.

 

why not just go with wider wheels

 

Yes I want to, but at this point I dont want to spend the money on custom wheels. I think I can get by with just the spacers for now.

 

ADR makes some pretty reasonably priced 3 piece wheels, depending on what your after the tires will be expensive.

 

Thanks for your help, yes I thought about getting me some Vellano VSO, since I've have them in my Northstar Fiero widebody (19X8.5F and 19-11.5B). But I've to wait. My BMW Z3 Turbo is going to get a new Paint Job. So maybe later. And Yes tires is where the money goes for sure. Michelin PS2 is my Favorite and it can get very expensive...

 

problem is finding after market wheels with the correct bolt pattern.....then offset.....so most likey it will cost @2700+ for the sizes we would perfer.....I would even settle for the same size Mustang wheels....atleast they would be on the cheap and wide....

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-1-2...Q5fAccessories

Dunno if it's the best idea, but someone mentioned using mustang wheels.

AS far as proper spacers:

10mm:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-R-1...Q5fAccessories

12mm:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-R-1...Q5fAccessories

15mm:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-R-1...Q5fAccessories

20mm is the biggest H&R makes.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H-R-2...Q5fAccessories

They also make 3mm and 5mm, but probably not big enough for your purposes. These are hubcentric. Volvos use the same bolt pattern and hub bore (thanks to Ford )

On OUR Cars that use wheel studs (instead of bolts), you'd have to source longer ones, and press them into the hub, but they are just ford studs.

EDIT: I just realized some of the thicker kits COME with the extended wheel studs. Make sure you use an open ended lug nut and an STRONG impact wrench to press them in. On The S-Type the rear hubs or all the rear brakes have to come off for you to get to the wheel studs because of the the rear brake dust shields (you can drill out the rivets, and then rivet them back on.

Take care,

George

 

Mustang wheels are not the same bolt pattern.....

 

Mustangs aren't 5x4.5 anymore? What are they now? There's conversion adapters to all the different common bolt patterns.

(The first link is to a set of spacer / wheel bolt pattern adapters).

The rest of the links are for straight 5x108 spacers.

Take care,

George

 

Never thought of that.....But I dont have much room for a spacer with the wheel well now....

 

Depends on the backspacing / offset of the mustang wheel. STR's come with an 18x9.5 wheel with a 42mm offset. I'd have to look at what stock mustang wheels are, but it opens up a new world of aftermarket possibilities. STR with prostars and skinnies anyone??

Take care,

Goerge

 

would be a sick look....I have some friends w/ a bunch of slicks around......def gonna have to get these n hit the track day and turn some heads haha

 

Example a:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-9-...Q5fAccessories

Front = 18x9 ET24

Rear = 18x10 ET22


So adding the spacer gets the wheel to closer to the 42mm the Jag expects...

Take care,

George

 

Only problem - I think you need an 18" wheel to clear the Brembo brakes on an STR. BUT I'm not 100% on that.

Oh and If you run aired down slicks and break an axle shaft or the diff, don't yell at me!

Take care,

George