I did the ETM check on our 03 the other day. When it came to the Diagnostic Trouble Codes it gave me these:

A884, A879, E200, 9600, E197, D900

None of these are Powertrain, Body, or Chassis codes. What do they mean?

The other "funny" was that at test 43, "Key in Switch" I got " -I " rather than the expected -B or -O. Any idea on that one?

Thanks!

 

How did you get the codes?

 

I've posted how to decode them, if you really care

You've no idea how long they've been there or which module(s) they're about.........

Buy an OBD tool (elm327, about $12)

 

By running the Engineering Test Mode, explained here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...st-mode-55518/


JagV8: I've had the car for two weeks, and just ran the ETM. No other codes have been shown in the information center. The car runs fine. I have the JTIS which lists the B, C, P, and even U codes, but not the ones I've listed.

I have searched the forum, but if you care to provide some hints of when you posted the information, etc. I will search some more.

 

Thank you Andy, I never used it because I have an OBDII tool. I like you would like to see the interpretation of the codes I might think twice about using it.

 

There is a trail of crumbs you can follow, or try here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e2/#post185626
post #37 might help.

 

Will this procedure work on xk8 or other models?

 

Norri - thanks!

Question for those who think this is useful. How do you clear the codes shown by ETM (if you don't own a dealer-type tool)?

 

Don't know, but it might - though it may need a different way to enter it.

Norri posted a link to one of my previous posts and it has some clues.

Generally ETM (by various names) seems to be in many Ford-derived clusters, such as (maybe only) those made by Visteon. I guess from some start date (they need a microprocessor!).

Lots of Ford cars have this feature. Pretty well all the ones (OK, not many) I've had my hands on owned by various friends.

The actual details vary - how you get in, exit, what's displayed, how terse it is, etc.

It can be as easy as holding down the trip button but the question even then is when? Might be with engine running, might be as you turn ignition to position II (or instead, Run), might be you have to hold the rear screen heater button in, etc.

If you have a specific Ford, try forums for the car. For the jag XK? Er.... have a play!

Another fairly common feature (again activated through some magic combination of buttons/etc) is a light/switch debug (er, test mode, if you prefer). This may do such things as beep each time you activate a switch (such as lights or door open/close).

I guess if that feature exists it'll usually be in some "obvious" module - often known as body module or similar name. No idea if our cars (or the XK) have this.

Can be really useful if you think one of the switches/sensors is acting up and don't have a specialist OBD (or the like) tool to diagnose that kind of thing.

 

Thanks Norri! Based on those hints, I found JagV8s valuable post , I deciphered my ETM readouts as:

E200 = U2 200 "Invalid data odometer"
E197 = U2 197 " Invalid data for speed"
I assume this was because I did the test with the car parked in the garage.

9600 = B1 600 "Ignition key transponder signal not received"
D900 = U1 900 " CAN comm. fault, network fault"

I have an issue with my ignition switch in that the "key in ignition" chime sounds whenever the driver's door is open, and the keyless remotes don't work. I am pretty sure that a PO damaged the lock barrel. Lubing it hasn't done a thing. But the keys work fine to start the car and manually lock and unlock the doors, trunk etc.

And finally:
A884 = B2 884
A879 = B2 879 I didn't find either of these on my version of JTIS

So, no serious problems. But I do want to get that key thing resolved. The JTIS has you remove the entire ignition switch assembly ( and more besides) to get at the lock barrel, so I haven't gotten around to removing the lock barrel. Also, I would rather live with it if replacing the lock barrel also means re-keying everything else.

 

A quick note: the top two bits (thus 00, 01, 10, 11) of a hex digit turn into 0, 4, 8, C
so you'd need to subtract the appropriate one of those from the (first hex digit of the) code you have.

If you're lost, just spend the $12 and get a far better tool whose behaviour is understood

edit: not aimed at any specific post or poster, I was just composing it as others were also posting

 

We need a for-geeks section LOL

 

Yeah, I maybe I'll buy a new one like the elm327 you mentioned. I have an old OBDII reader, a "Creader", that I bought 8-9 years ago. I haven't tried it on the Jag yet.