Most likely would be a failing/flattish battery.

Beyond that it virtually has to be related to what you did. Whether that's a disturbed item that used to be a marginal circuit or now is - may be very hard to tell.

After that, find a jag indy who knows the cars very very well as that code is staggeringly rare.

 

Thanks JagV8,

Nothing so simple as a battery I'm afraid. I swapped a good, freshly charged battery into it yesterday to be met with the same symptoms. I did notice that the new battery lost charge very quickly though...
I was working on the car for maybe an hour, with doors, boot and bonnet open (with attendant courtesy lights on), and tried the starter motor a number of times. The gauges began to give a full sweep across the dials upon turning the ignition on before the alarm came on. I'm baffled by the new set of symptoms and still stuck with the non-start.
I'm going to try checking all fuses and relays again before considering taking to a specialist.
I'm also wondering whether the code reader I am using is up to the job - Autel Maxiscan MS509 - it should give accurate OBD11 DTC's but didn't work too well on my 2001 3.0 X-Type.
I'm considering spending on one of these;
https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT644.html
Anyone have any feedback about these readers?

 

Which problem(s)? There sure are a bunch jammed into this thread. If you are referring to southernjaggirl's problems, I would have tossed in a $130.00 new battery and see what happened.

 

Mine isn't solved yet. I will probably call out an auto-electrician when I get round to it; in the meantime I'm using my 3.0 X-Type - and probably will for the winter now. If I find a solution to my own issue, I'll post it up.
I have read about someone changing relay No 4 in the rear panel (boot/trunk) but it didn't work for me.
Good luck with your own investigations

 

I am also wondering if "Southernjaggirl" ever solved her problem. I also have a 2000 S-type. Although, mine is a 4.0 V8.
I have an INNOVA 3140 scan tool. It seems to do a good job. I had some misfire codes come up on the car along with the "limp mode". The scan tool diagnosed to coils that were at fault. This solved the misfire but the vehicle would continue to display the "limp mode" on the dash message center and the car ran rich because I could smell the fuel on start up. Put the scan tool back on, but there are no codes. I cycled through various options on the scan tool and came upon a message that referencing the "throttle position sensor and the gas pedal sensor". The message gave no further info and I couldn't find any other info. So I guessed that one sensor was at fault and I guessed that the most likely would be the throttle body sensor. Not being entirely confident that this was the issue. I purchased a good used throttle body and installed it. This appeared to clear up a number of issues. The car ran great afterward. I no longer could smell the fuel. But we continue to have the "limp mode" display on the message center display. There are no new codes present. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the system. But this has had no effect.
Now the other day my wife had the car and the throttle wouldn't respond to input. She had to idle down the highway on the shoulder. When I got in the car later. It worked fine other then the limp mode message.
Any ideas. I would like to fix this before I put the car away for the winter.

I haven't driven this car since the this last issue with not responding to pedal input. I guess I could just replace that sensor, but I like to have more proof before just shotgunning parts. This could simply be a poor connection and I plan to shoot some contact cleaner in these connectors. Just haven't gotten out there. This only happened once but I'm not looking for a repeat performance of that problem.

 

My problem is solved.
I had the 'Fail-safe engine mode' display, and when I connected an OBD code reader I got P1586; which reads as 'Electronic throttle to PCM Comm Error'.
I think both were spurious, and generated by another fault - which was fixed by removing all fuses in the engine compartment box and replacing with 10A. It fired up straight away and without any further problem. The solution was offered by the auto-electrician I called on a Sunday who wanted to stay with his family and offered his first move over the phone for free. Good man!

 

At this point, I believe I have solved my problem also. The "limp mode" message has not come back and the car is driving great with no recurrence with "lack of throttle response to input".

I found a thread in this forum that identified a procedure to "calibrate" the pedal input with the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. The author of that information explained this simple process. ( Turn on ignition but do not start engine. Slowly depress accelerator pedal to floorboard twice and then start engine). This allows the ECU to see the entire range of each sensor. He mentioned how this also can improve transmission response. This simple technique seems to have worked for me.

 

You should know the communication net between the fuel ⛽️ air and control speed of idol plus transmission position .It’s quite complicated ,which even some time code reader scan could not realize the error . Throttle body is a mechanical part to adjective amount air to mix with file for ignition .This part is operated by electronic commands send by driver during the pedaling the gas pedal .position of the pedal will determinate position of the sensor in throttle to how much move the gears to open the csrbrator diagrammed and let the air pass thought. In this section there’s 22 sensors that all must be respond to other in order to have smoth acceleration and idol in engine .It less likely in jaguar mechanical parts fails which brought us to this conclusion that where the problem is?Knowing the behavior in engine it can determinate approximately location of the fail in your case if after replacing the throttle body still have bad or low performance and fuel effeminacy problem .you must first check type of the behavior .If motor is not get gas or is hazetated to excceleration then most likely problem is in sensors include general sensors in compartment of air and intank . These sensors are Air mass flow - Air temperature sensor- throttle positioning sensor - pedal accelerator sensor- CO2 sensors upstream and low stream .If any of these sensors loose it’s accuracy or go out the car will perform weakly and even drive the each mechanic crazy to find the problem . Also air leak are common problem in Jaguars intank and valve gasket if leak you will see loose in amount of the engine oil Plus bad spark plugs or ignition coils can show low performing motor Also broken spring in transmission valve body can show almost same behavier as air or electric problems.To be more safe from mechanic rip off you can purchase a jaguar code reader/scanner that will scan the computer and if you see a code appear will tell you the code mean and location of the part . This way you can trouble shooting the car in minimum cost at minimum time .In your case I guess the pedal acccelerator sensor and throttle position are not cummunicate together ,which need the replace cause they are sealed parts and can not be fixed.Happy ride .

 

P1586 is a communication problem between throtttle body and the PTEC system.
Typically a SCP communication fault will also appear among the DTC fault codes.
Many jaguar factory publications are available here at forum, as shared among members, that can help you have a greater understanding of where to look.

My guess is that:
A. Electrical connection between Throttle Body and ECM. Clean well all connectors at throttle body, throttle sensor, and at main connector on False bulkhead connector (right-side).
B. ECM would need to be verified as functioning well, next item.
C. Throttle Body seal... Also, check to be certain mechanic installed a NEW throttle body gasket, as detailed in Factory installation guidelines. Possibly TB was not replaced with new TB gasket.

Good luck... let us know what you "discover".

 

Re S-type P1586 Throttle Body issue
Did you ever find out answer to your question?
Do you know whether or not .. S-type Throttle Body needs to be reprogrammed, .... when replacing original with a New or used throttle Body
I have a similar issue and Dealer's mechanics cannot discover remedy.

RE: Your message .... "I think a new throttle body has to be programmed into the PCM. Can someone confirm this?
Did the mechanic do that?
You may need to get on to Jaguar Corporate as Jon89 did..."

 

I don't think you can rely on the code being a true reflection of the source of the error 100% of the time.
In my case I swapped the throttle body for a known working and got the same response. If I manually prodded the throttle flap open with a long screwdriver the engine responded (leading me to realise that a cable operated throttle would solve my problem. The problem for me was somewhere in the engine compartment fuses, I replaced them all with new 10A and the car was, and is running fine. It may not be the same for all.
The problem is that the OBD does not always deliver accurate information... and as a previous poster indicated - this can be very costly indeed.
I'm fairly sure that the throttle body in my car currently is the replacement, and I did not recalibrate it. If you want to do so then see post 47 which offers a procedure.

 

On my '02 V6, I replaced the throttle body about 3 years ago with a used unit. It was plug and play. I did not do any programming. At the time, I didn't know about the calibration procedure but it still worked fine.

Some of the confusion may come from the original intended audience for the factory manuals. Perhaps a new, never-installed throttle body may need to be "progammed". Or maybe in this case, that only means calibrated, which is simple to do and requires no special equipment (see the top of the stickies). However, a good used unit may be ready to go as is. Even if not perfectly calibrated, it may be close enough like that and the computer can learn as you go.

Meanwhile, in a dealership setting, it's new parts only, never used. The manual wasn't really written for us cheapskates and our used parts. That's why the manual might state some procedure needs to be done, but that's for new parts only, with no caveat for used parts.

 

I don't see Jaguar telling us whether via an employee or their site/workshop manual so that leaves people guessing.

Hardly anyone goes through this. Lots, however, disconnect the battery (e.g. me) and do not need to recalibrate (yes, me again) so the car must generally just figure things out. Hard to panic over this.

May not help that a lot more parts swapping goes on than is necessary due to failing to diagnose what's wrong!

 

Question to kr98664:
"replaced the throttle body about 3 years ago with a used unit. It was plug and play. "

Why did you swap-out your throttle body 3yrs ago?
Did swap correct problem?
What lead to your decision to change throttle body for another?

Certainly your experience will be helpful to others reading this "thread".

 

I was getting a sporadic "Failsafe Mode" with a P1584 code. I forget the exact details, but seem to remember it pointed to an internal electronic fault with the throttle body brain. And yes, a $75 used unit corrected the problem.

 

By "throttle body brain" ... which do you mean?
Throttle Body assembly?
or ... ECM?
or throttle body sensor?

Advance thanks for your clarification

 

 

Oops, a little update. Turns out I was less correct than usual.

I was curious so I dug out the my car's original (faulty) throttle body from my collection of bad parts in the basement. Turns out the TPS on the donor unit was damaged in shipping. I had forgotten all about that. I had swapped my car's original TPS onto the donor throttle body. Since I had actually kept the same TPS, I know that wasn't the problem.