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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 08:13 AM
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Lets try this again. I have replaced the dccv, aux. water pump, blower motor and relays. Plus the rccm was sent out for repairs. I have no control over the blower motor, will not turn on. Yet, heat keeps creeping out slowly, from the defroster vents. Not just a little, but hot enough to make my own horseshoes. Not bad during the winter, but it is 80 here and makes driving pretty uncomfortable.
Any ideas would be helpful.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 08:46 AM
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Have you followed the troubleshooting in the JTIS?
Might be worth a look.
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 09:13 AM
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My son, who is a mechanic, has climbed through dang near everything in that car. A green and black wire that goes to the rccm seems to control the blower. Where it originates, I do not know. The heat, beats me.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 09:15 AM
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Following JTIS incl elec guide would be my choice.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 10:26 AM
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I called him and he said he did follow it, no luck
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 10:50 AM
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Next time in, I will have him do it again
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Kewpie
My son, who is a mechanic, has climbed through dang near everything in that car. A green and black wire that goes to the rccm seems to control the blower. Where it originates, I do not know. The heat, beats me.
The black and green wire that goes to the RCCM runs to the blower motor relay (R7) in the rear fuse box. That relay gets power from fuse 10 (30amp) in the same fuse box.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 03:46 PM
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But he says he's used JTIS & elec guide that show that...

Odd.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 08:15 PM
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One thing is clear: Your DCCV is not fully closed. It could be faulty even though new, wouldn't be the first. If not, then either your rccm is not commanding it closed, or there is a wiring problem between the two. May or may not be related to the blower issue, but it would probably be time well spent to study the wiring guide for an intersection that would cause both problems.

So have I got this right? No blower, but full heat at the defrost louvers?

Sounds like the system is lacking power or ground. That is likely the failsafe position: Defrost/full heat. Can you move the heat by selecting manual discharge modes? Face, foot etc? Setting the system to "Lo" (as cold as it will go) should bypass any faulty sensors that could be contributing.

At Lo, it is supposed to activate Hi blower, closed both sides of the water valve, set the fresh/recirc door to recirc and configure all the flaps to full-cold, face, regardless what the 3 evap core sensors, outside air temp sensor, and in-car temp sensor are telling it.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 08:19 AM
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The green and black wire, was traced to the relay in the trunk. If jumped, the blower comes on. Same at the rccm. The defrost is only on low, not high. You cannot control face, foot or the like. One constant temperature, cannot reduce it, very hot. In the coldest of winter, you have to turn it off and on or it will run you right out of the car.
 
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