Two mechanics I have spoken too, suggest not to do anything until it throws a code. The car is in transmission adaptive learn mode right now for another few hundred miles. I realy don't expect this to be corrected by the adaptive learn - I may be mistaken?

Is it 'safe' to take it on a long trip (350miles x 2)?
Will it continue to get worse before throwing a code?

Pete

 

No one has broken down with this problem. Yes it will get worse as the TC clutch lining wears. Yes it is like the coils that go bad. It will take a certain level of failure before a code is thrown.

I have attached another TSB that MIGHT be your problem. The TC is pretty expensive! If you do change it out please post back to the list to help other people. Especially the price and where you got it from.
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As best I can determine from talking to the jag tech, this is the update which has been done, and is still in relearn.
Pete

 

Does your TCM have the latest calibration? -- Sounds like it does (we were both posting!)

Just to check about the re-learning: is that because the adaptions were cleared using the dealer tool?
i.e. NOT by disconnecting the battery? (which doesn't clear them)

I hope you don't need to replace the TC.

Out of interest, does it behave any differently if you use S (Sport) mode? -- But don't do that until the relearn is finished.

 

UPdate should have it at the latest software, this is why it is in relearn mode.
Have DO NOT TOUCH lable on the Sport button still!
Pete

 

Good luck and please update again periodically once the relearn is done.

 

Driven about 200miles city/urban highway, and today put 700 miles highway on it - can I start using Sport mode now, or do I need more city?

TC feels good now, but I think mostly due to 5hrs driving at highway speeds, it is real warm.

Got 8.9L/100km outbound at 75-80mph
8.5L/100 Km homeward bound slightly slower.

Pete

 

I'm not sure anyone here REALLY knows. We just do our best. I'd think as it's a computer what matters is that you've driven it in varied circumstances (not babying). Beats me why jag say to avoid sport, but that's what the TSB says. By now, I'd say just drive it like you prefer. Another update in a few weeks or 2000 miles (say) would be good, too.

 

Yea I don't know why the reflash requires you to not use sport either. It must have something to do with what shift points etc it saves. My first reflash no one told me about "no sport" and it just kept up "lurching". This last time they did make it a point to tell me "no sport mode for at least 200 miles". I did more than that and guess what...Took longer but the damn lurch is back... I just keep in sport so it doesn't hesitate that bad from a rolling stop..That is the worst. I don't really mind the harsh downshift when stopping.

I'm convinced that the computer in the trans just thinks I drive like an @sshole.......

 

I think I've figured it out: doesn't Sport avoid one or more gears? Maybe 6th? That would stop the learning of shifts involving any avoided gears.

Part of the adaption / drive cycle is about shifts and involves "coast down", where you allow the car to slow down from 50 mph (I'd go for 60) to (er, think it's 20) without braking. Pick a flat, deserted, road

I think the TCM is watching its parts and likely the PCM is watching the CKP and/or CMP because it REALLY needs to calibrate that/those (for timing & misfire detection).

Ideally you do this every time you've had the battery disconnected. (But the TCM doesn't re-learn. The PCM does. Go figure.)

 

Here is a verbatim quote from page 194 of my proper Jaguar owner's handbook.
"The engine electronic system automatically adapts to certain characteristics of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, these adaptations are lost.
On reconnection, therefore, some slightly abnormal drive symptoms may occur and the vehicle may need to be driven 16 kilometres (10 miles) or more while the control system re-adapts".
It says the adaptations are to the vehicle, there is no mention of the driver's habits here. I wonder if these are included with the vehicle? Neither does it say what control module is involved, although one might think the transmission control and the powertrain control modules would be involved.
Pdr1966, I have identical transmission symptoms with the hunting lock-up clutch in my 2006 S-type diesel. Using sport mode makes NO difference. One would think that this MY would have all the latest software. I'm not spending any money on it until I absolutely have to. I'll say this -- I will never buy another car that uses the ZF6hp26 gearbox. By the way, over here in UK you can get the torque converter/clutch assy. reconditioned at a reasonable cost. I understand that transmission oil can be had more cheaply as well. Esso lifeguard fluid 6 or fluid 6 plus seems to be interesting.
Maybe sometime in the future if I still have the car I'll disconnect the power to the lock up clutch IF that's possible, and IF the control module will let me, and run the car without it. The TC will be in-circuit all the time, meaning a little more fuel consumption, but that's better than several thousands of pounds for an overhaul. Anyone ever done this???
Leedsman.

 

I was told that by a service tech as well. Then that was corrected on here a long while back...I think it was BRUTAL that smacked me for that statement. It doesn't do that.. I leave mine in sport all the time now..And after about 5 to 10 minutes at oh lets say 75mph and 3,000 rpm it will shift into 6th and the rpms drop. It's kinda weird that it waits so long but it does shift.

 

OK, I haven't figured it out LOL

The adaptions can be seen as occurring if you connect IDS and drive the car, but IDS is not cheap.

To be clear: the TCM has internal flash (or equivalent) memory so disconnecting the battery will not clear its adaptions. The PCM uses KAM (keep alive memory) which needs actual power and so is lost if you disconnect the battery. (I've been reading.)

 

I got a muffler replaced, and this flaring is MUCH more difficult to notice.
It is still present, but much less noticable.

Pete