In another in a series of threads I've started on my new STR, I'd like inquire about the transmission.
So far, with this car I've replaced most of the suspension...swapped in new control arms, tie rods, bar end links, shock bushings...and fixed a rear end leak.
It's a rust free, strong pulling car. The temp is rock solid.
Everything is working well (or starting to) except the transmission when rolling from stop signs in my neighborhoods. I get a ramping up of RPMs followed by a hard shift. This happens in 1st or 2nd gear.
There are no problems downshifting and no problems whatsoever when using the J-Gate. So I leave the J-Gate in 3 and it works very well for around the city.
Any ideas on what the problem is with the trans? Should I worry about it?
Thank you

 

The gearbox has ADAPTATIONS.
If the car is new to you then they are NOT YOUR ADAPTATIONS.

I would CLEAR ADAPTATIONS and do a drive cycle and see if that has any effect?

Specialized equipment is needed to do the TCM configuration but it might cure the fault?

 

Thanks. I've had the battery out a few days, but haven't tried the 'hard reset' of touching terminals.
I drive differently depending on where I am--slow and gently in neighborhoods w/lots of stop signs, and take it to higher RPM where there's space.

 

Battery off does NOT clear the adaptations, tool needed, as Bob made clear.

 

I understood. Thanks for reaffirming

 

Are you maybe talking about "The Lurch"?
Here is thelurch.com list to fix it.
The Lurch

I never got rid of of it 100% on my old 2005 STR but found I could change how bad it was with my driving technique.

You have done a lot of work but I don't see where you have serviced the transmission yet?
If not done I would put it on your list. It did help my car a good bit.
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Yes, The Lurch. Mine would be Variant 2: rolling stop, ramping up RPMs then sudden jolt as it shifts into gear 1 or 2.
I drove around in D w/sport mode off today and didn't have a single problem.
Servicing the trans is on the list, though it may have been done not too long ago. I'm guessing fluid and filter change is priority, but it sounds like a nightmare with frozen plug, snapping pan bolts, esoteric oil, etc..
It looks like I have an aluminum pan?

 

If you do it's not stock?
You should have a plastic pan with the filter integrated in it. They do have a steel pan that was used on other cars and I almost went that way but to be honest you won't have any problems with the integrated pan/filter set up.

Yes the fill plug will be tight but just be sure and get it loose BEFORE draining any fluid!
I found a stubby Allen wrench with a cheater pipe on it got it loose. Just no room under the car to swing the long handle unless you can get the car on a lift.

Frozen pan bolts can be handled pretty easy as the pan is plastic and has to be replaced so you can break the plastic from around the bolts and use vise grips to loosen them. But all mine came loose with a snap. Another tip is if the bolt heads strip out to use a Dremel tool and put a slot in the heads then use a hand impact to loosen them. The frozen bolts were the reason why ZF came out with the larger Torx bolts. Be SURE and use a small dab of anti-seize too. The bolts take a very small amount of torque and I don't even torque them. Just a simple snug down is adequate. Be sure and follow the recommended tightening sequence.

I have posted this many times but I get my ZF service kits from the CTSC.
They also provide the sealing sleeve so don't forget that. It can ONLY be replaced with the pan off so do it when changing fluid.
ZF Parts

At this late date we now know Mercon SP is exactly the same as Lifguard6 so you can save some money using Mercon but the ZF fluid has come way down in price over the years. With the few times I change oil in a ZF transmission I just use the CTSC kit as it comes with everything. Pan bolts, sealing sleeve, Pan/filter and fluid plus a new drain plug.
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You need to fix the LURCH

 

Haha! There's definitely an element of the Addam's Family in this car
clubairth1 Thank you for all the tips! I'm taking a closer look. You're points about fluid changes is helping set my mind at ease.

 

Mine started to lurch slightly when coming to a stop, actually on the way to have the gearbox serviced 2 weeks ago (at 50,000 miles).
Hasn't done it since.

 

It sounds worth doing.

 

The lurch gets programmed out with a firmware update to the TCM. You will need someone with the SDD/IDS to clear and reprogram. Some transmissions shops can do this, The fact you have a non-plastic pan means there has been some fluid/ filter change at one point.

It sounds beyond the kick in the rear from the lurch and you are getting a shift flair from from going into 4th from third and probably when you are at lower rpms. (1800-2200) What happens if you do a more aggressive startup where the shift between 3 and 4 is at a higher rmp? *which is what the sport mode does) The shift between 3 and 4 on the adaptions can be hard to set and even Brutal has discussed that several times. It involves the use of an additional clutch that sometimes is starting to fail or slip. .Have you gotten a "gearbox fault" message at all. The adaptations can be hard to set as Jag wants you to use 2 people and the SDD to set them correctly. ZF told me to just drive normally for about 500 miles and assuming nothing else is wrong, the you will get them set my normal diving.

Attached is the TSB on adaptions.

Tom in Plano/Dallas
2005 S-type 3.0 119K

 

Thank you, Tom. Fascinating information
I haven't gotten a gearbox fault message. The problem only happens with a slow start from a stop. The throttle ramps up RPMs and there's a delay in getting into gear. Sometimes this happens between gears 1, 2 maybe 3. Only seems to happen when rolling slowly from a stop whether in sport mode or not. It doesn't happen in normal traffic or driving aggressively. Nor does it happen when using the J-gate.

 

A quick test. Do a very normal startup where you can feel the gears shift as it rises in speed, but try by keeping the rpms in the 1800-200 range for all the shifts up till 4th. Notice if going into 4th or even 3rd if you get a shift flair- (a quick rise of 200-300 rpms before the shift takes place) or there is a delay into going into 4th.. Then do the same thing but give more gas to the car and see that the shifts are taking place in the 2500+ rpm's. Do all of this in normal mode. Have you called Jag to see what work has been done on the car or did you look at a car fax. That would tell you if and when a transmission service occurred, which I am sure it has or otherwise you would not have a metal pan filter.

I have attached a Jag transmission trouble shooting guide and another TSB about a weird noise that all the S-types seem to have had. The additive is no longer available and the change in fluid is supposed to handle that issue, but it would not cause your problem.

Tom

 

Just did this in Drive, normal mode. A rise in RPM from 1st to 2nd and to third, but not 4th. Higher RPMs result in slightly crisper gear changes,
It was the same in in sport mode and when using the J-gate in both modes.
What does that indicate?

 

I would forget abut the J-gate unless you want a manual trans. Shift flairs are cause by what the Jag guide talks about. You could have a solenoid problems. This is what you want for such a problem..

https://www.thectsc.com/

Solenoid Kit.

I would call the guy as he is very helpful.

TBB

 

This link can be helpful to know more about your transmission, but beware that these guys are into fixing or replacing the valve body even for simple things- it is like an obsessions with them. In my case I spoke to them as someone, thinking they were doing me a favor, had erased by TCM adaptions and I was having some difficulty getting them back.

So read with that caution in mind, but still great info that could find you some solution and give you a better understanding of your transmission.

https://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3738

Tom

 

Thank you. I actually read this earlier today. I just changed all the plugs. One broke in half in the socket, so I imagine it was hanging on for dear life for awhile.
While it didn't cure the very light throttle response from the transimission, it smoothed out the idle and it shifts a lot quicker at 1500 rpm.
Next chance I get, I'm going to check the level and condition of the fluid.

 

You will be better off getting a tranny shop to make the check. The plug you need to take out is very difficult without a lift and even then you will need to use a cheater with a stubby Allen wrench. Mercon SP will work as well as Lifeguard. You probably are just better off getting the filter, the bolts, the sleeve and transmission fluid and let the shop handle it. It is a messy job on the home front. If you are going to check it, you might as well change 7 liters or so.

TBB