New to the forums and have been reading these posts on the S-type R transmission troubles but have just found questions close to what I am experiencing. I have recently bought a 2003 S-type R that had the transmission rebuilt just over a year ago. I have had shifting troubles still so I disconnected the battery cables and let the touch for about 30 mins and then reattached them. That was about 3-4 weeks ago and since then it has shifted nearly flawlessly but still has thrown the 'transmission fault' message 3 times, but once the car is shut off and restarted the message goes away. It should be noted I have the amber light on the left side of the mileage box and it says restricted performance along with DSC Not Available. I know it may have O2 sensors that may need replaced and I have mufflers being replaced next month. It runs and drives 95% of the time perfectly but I am wanting to get it to run perfectly all the time. EVERYONE that hears it says it sounds awesome and that is what drives me to get it back to 100%. I would appreciate all the help and suggestions any of you may have. I am heading to the garage now to check the battery and the water level in the cells.

Thanks to all in advance -

 

You need to read ALL the modules to see what DTCs are logged. The TCM will have different codes than the ECM.

The DSC should have C (chassis) codes logged.

When I diagnose a car for faults I like to read all the modules for a total picture. Some modules point at each other and network faults can confuse modules.

bob gauff

 

I'm new to Jag ownership, what are the DTC codes and where can I get them pulled? Also, after taking for a test drive after the battery posts were cleaned and cells checked for water it shifted flawlessly, noticeably different even considering how well it was doing prior. So that appears to be a plus. That being said, when doing those things to the battery I found that my battery has a vacuum line to it? Never encountered that before.

Problems that remain: DSC NOT AVAILABLE & RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE messages still appear. It STILL BOGS OUT when giving it gas to accelerate quickly.

I'm trying guys and will diligently work as per your suggestions as I try to get it to 100%. I love the car and the lines and the overall look, I just want her to run as smoothly as she did when she rolled off the showroom floor. Thanks again!

 

Realise that engine faults often upset the trans.

Stop mistreating the car, get the codes read and faults fixed. You're likely doing damage that's avoidable.

I'd first get battery load tested & voltage tested. You want 12.5V or more after an overnight of non-use.

 

Trunk-mounted batteries must be vented due to the outgassing that all batteries emit. That's your vent hose, not a vacuum line. Make certain it remains intact or you'll be dealing with corrosion in your trunk. And as others have said, get your battery checked and your codes read. These cars draw massive amounts of power. When the battery begins to die, spurious codes get thrown and strange activity begins to occur. Spend some time reading the stickies at the top of this forum. You have much to learn and that is one of the quickest ways to gain knowledge....

 

The ventilation line to the battery is connected and I will get the codes this weekend. I don't want to do any harm to the car, I just recently purchased it. I was just relaying what the issues are and looking for some friendly assistance in both ideas and direction.

Thanks to any and all who have or wish to offer ideas and direction, it's appreciated.

 

Welcome to the forum polojackd,

An intro in the new members section would be appreciated.

 

Brief intro done Norri.

 

Ok, battery shows that it is old and worn, with a mere 11.6V of charge after an overnight of non-use. I suspect that this may the primary root of many of my issues. I was unaware that a weak battery could cause intermittent shift points in the transmission. I have ordered a new battery and will install it and then clear all old codes and pull new ones which I will post here for further help,ideas and guidance. Thanks to all who have chimed in one way or the other.

 

Well after several weeks of my friend trying to figure out my problem (see original post) though we had figured it was a short somewhere, I took the car to the Jaguar dealer here. Unfortunately there are no independent repair places in my area. They told me the day after I dropped it off that the short was in the front power distribution and that would need to be replaced at the tune of $4700. I am somewhat hesitant to do that since that is much of the value of the car. What is the opinion of the experts here? I love the car and I am very torn by this.

 

I would seek other opinions. Jaguar wants to replace, not repair. As you have already stated, replacement cost probably comes close to exceeding the value of your car. That would not be a viable option for me....