Yesterday I ran down to the store in the Jag and everything was fine.
Coming home about a block from my house I started pulling out to take a left hand turn.some fool had turned block and romped on it.
I punched it to get out of the way. It scratched the tires and the traction control kicked in. I turned onto my block and then into my driveway.
It wouldn't go up my driveway. Got some help to and pushed up in there.
The car will not move in and gear now forward or reverse.
I crawled under it today and checked the linkage and its fine and shiftier is moving everything as should.
Put the car in gear while jacked up nothing no noise no movement nothing.
No transmission codes showing just a door open that i haven't go fixed yet.
When I put it in gear the rpm will drop about 400.
Anyone got any ideas at what to look at next?
I would think it would make some kind of noise if something broke in it.

 

I would first use my ears to listen for parking brake engaging and disengaging. Then shut the car down with the parking brake overridden off. Then with wheels in the air, both sides, investigate if you have wheel brakes stuck on. Clearly you do not want a trans problem and your TC activation did utilize the brake pump and applying of brakes at some point. Fingers crossed that your ugly situation is just a different ugly situation. More hope than science, but I think you're just getting started. Good luck.

 

What year is your car? '99-'02 have the 5R55N transmission. Later models have the ZF.

My hunch is something in the traction control system hasn't fully released. After the TC light came on, how far did you travel? If only a short distance, perhaps with a slight downgrade, perhaps you were only coasting at that point but it wasn't obvious until you tried going up your driveway.

Sounds like good troubleshooting so far. I take it the engine starts normally? Do the indicator lights (at the base of the shift lever) illuminate normally one at a time as you try all the gears?

With the rear of the car raised off the ground, and parking brake released, can you turn the rear wheels freely by hand?

After you start the car, do the anti-skid and TC lights/messages go out?

I'm wondering when the TC kicked on, if that may have blown a fuse, especially if the system hasn't activated in a long time. The TC system has a small hydraulic pump and valves to independently apply the brakes. If the pump or valves had seized from inactivity, that could have tripped a fuse. I'd think you'd just get a warning light or message, but who knows. Let us know what year you have, and I can find some fuses to check. Fingers crossed that it's something simple like that.

Sorry I don't have some definitive answer for you. I'm just thinking of some basic steps that are easy to do.

 

Thanks for the reply Karl,

Its at 2003 with 89000. Yes the ZF trans.
It was so quick when it happen that I never saw the TC light come on Just felt it.
I would say probably half a bock of travel. Your correct I was costing up the driveway st that point.
The selector indicator lights all come on in all positions. No movement any gear 2,3,4,D,R. The parking claw dose engage.
When I put it in gear and let my foot off the brake it will roll backwards no forward movement. I had it up to 4000 rpm at one point.
Driveway dose not have a huge incline either. . Maybe 3 to 5%.
No Waring or TC lights except for the door open that I haven't had time to fix. I keep spraying with WD40.
I have turned the TC off and on and sport mode. All seam to work as should.
I would think if it was the TC it would act like the brake was stuck on and this is not the case. It doesn't want to move at all.
Everything else acts as it should. Starts runs fine just wont move.
I did see a small amount if fluid on the trans pan not sure if it trans fluid or oil.
Planing on going out to check the fluid today.
My problem is getting it level and enough room for me to get underneath it.
I am skeptical it fluid because it was moving fine before and no slipping.
I hate to think about taking it to a shop. They see a Jag and just see dollar signs.
I see you in Sandy. I'm over in St Johns. You have any recommendations on a mechanic that's honest?


Thanks,
Jeff

 

Wiring diagrams here for 2003, see fig 05.1:

http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf

I see three power sources for the controller. In the front power distribution box (under the hood), check fuses F28 and F31. In the primary junction box (inside the cabin, outboard of the US passenger's feet), check fuse F3.

It's a crapshoot whether the problem is electrical or not. I'm just thinking of some potentially embarrassing basics to check before digging deeper elsewhere.

I agree the fluid level is probably not the fault here. Can't hurt to check, but the process is something of a pain. Unless you've got a lift, the logistics are kinda daunting just to get the car high enough in the air and sitting level. Just for giggles, walk back to the intersection where this happened and look for evidence of fluid dumping on the ground.

My TheoryDuJour, subject to wind direction and medication levels, is the traction control function was activated, but for reasons unknown (blown fuse?), the process didn't complete the normal cycle. Still thinking out loud, but maybe this incomplete cycle wasn't enough to trigger a warning message, leaving you stuck in limbo.

More thinking out loud, but have you tried disconnecting the battery? Obviously, check the fuses first. But if my crackpot theory about an incomplete TC cycle is correct, maybe resetting power like that will help. Heck, it works on an Airbus...

If you do need to take the car to a shop, I can recommend The Jag Shop on East Burnside:

Welcome - The Jag Shop

 

I will check and get back to you on the fuses and the wheel movement.
I haven't disconnected the battery yet .Just thinking about that this morning.
I can hear the E bake cycle on and off when used manually.
Have a phone interview at noon so after that.
This covid 19 is going bankrupt me If I don't get back to work soon.
I love this car and I still owe on it. So that hurts.
I have had 2 STR. This being my second.
Fist one totaled out in December 2018 Due to lower a arm braking at 45 mph and went over a concrete embankment.
Didn't get one scratch on me so got another one. Luckily I found another.
I'm crossing my fingers it just something being fussy at this point. Anything is worth a shot.
I haven't had real good luck lately with transmissions.
My 2001 Chevy 1500 has the dreaded reverse slipping problem.
Just waiting for the weather to get better to fix it.
Transmission went out on my washing machine last week and had to throw 158 bucks at it to fix.
That was repairing it myself.
When it rain it pours. LOL

Thanks for the reply's,

Jeff

 

Walked back to the spot it happened yesterday and no oil or anything on the ground.
All fuses checked out good with a ohms meter.
With the car jacked up and brake off I can move both wheels.
I even put it gear with it off the ground and nothing.
Should I go ahead and disconnect the battery or am I just blowing in the wind at this point?
I just don't want to erase any stored codes. I cant seam to find my code reader at this point to check.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

The TCM stores codes in a NON-Volatile memory. Disconnecting the battery will not clear 'hard-fault' DTCs.

 

Thanks motorcarman

OK,
I disconnected battery jumper battery wire together for 20 min.
Started it up reset everything put it in gear and nothing.
Any other thing I can try?
I cant get it level enough in the driveway to check fluid.
Like I said i'm skeptical its the fluid.anyway.
I hate to say it but I think its on the way to the jag shop.
I'm just not equipped to work under this car.
At least i have AAA so it wont cost me for a tow.

 

if you can, get it up on stands high enough to check driveline and drive axles and such....almost sounds like something gave when you had to goose it....at least you could put it in neutral and turn the rear tires as karl suggested....maybe even double check the tcm is plugged in all the way

 

I did a inspection of shiftier cable drive line and rear axles yesterday and all looked good.
Put it in gear while I had the rear up in the air today and looked underneath and dive line is not turning.
The rear wheels move freely by hand..
When I put it in gear the rpm drops some but not like it used to.
Starting to think torque converter but no whine or noise.
.

 

yeah my knowledge of fhe zf trans and electronics is way limited , wish i could help more

 

To the best of your knowledge, has the gearbox ever been serviced? The fluid, pan/filter should be changed every 60 thousand miles to maintain performance.

Once the vehicle is safely off the ground and level, begin by checking the fluid to see if it's full. As Bob (motorcarman) suggested, there are most likely DTCs stored that can provide a clue to the problem before any further disassembly or work.

 

That's the way I feel plus the limited room to work on it.
If it was a 7004R or a old C4 I would have it on the bench already.

I appreciate your input.

 

Not sure it had 73000 on when I purchased in December 2018 it now at 89000.
Wouldn't the CEL light come on if there were codes?
I can check the fluid tomorrow. I have some ramps and can build a platform for the other 2 wheels.
I will let you guys know what I find out.

 

Thanks for humoring me and checking those fuses.

You've definitely got an odd situation. Been hoping one of the pros would recognize it and direct you to some TSB that has a simple fix...

When you had the car on jackstands, parking brake off, shift lever in P, did this properly lock the driveshaft from turning? With the shift lever in N, was the driveshaft now free to turn in either direction?

How about those two infamous bolts that secure the shift cable to the transmission body? Did you confirm they are present and secure?

One last thought: Please double check the wiring harness to the transmission. My latest TheoryDuJour (ignore any previous ideas, clearly the rantings of a madman) is you've got a failed engine or transmission mount. When you punched the gas, the drivetrain torqued over and pulled on the harness, breaking a wire or two.

I'd suggest visually inspecting the harness while checking the cable bolts. If nothing obvious, you could then take some continuity readings with a meter from the transmission control module.

 

Quite often the MIL does not come on, but a code may be stored that requires dealership level diagnostic equipment to read.

If you get under the vehicle, check the megtronic connector where it plugs into the gearbox to make sure it hasn't come loose. Also check for leaks around the megatronic sleeve as the original seals tend to seep.

If the plug is loose, or has become disconnected, inspect the engine and gearbox mounts.

 

anytime.... the cel only refers to obd2 troubles....emissions and engine related....you will need a scanner that can access the other modules..ie..icarsoft, snap on, autel, jaguarsdd.ids,,,you get the picture...even though the trans is part of the powertrain it is not obd2 related...only the ecm is considered obd2 whereas a myriad of scanners or code readers will access it

 

I wouldn't count on a held transmission code throwing a lamp on your dash. It would seem more likely than not, but not 100%. With much at stake dollar wise, I think you should get your hands on a scanner. Not all scanners will hit the modules outside the engine management chip. Be sure to use one with that capability.

 

I do see your methodology here.
The parking pawl dose hold. Just verified it by letting off the E brake in park.
That would mean no broken output shaft correct?
Wheels rotated both directions in neutral
Sifter cable bolts are in and tight.
Your talking the round connector on the back passenger side of the trans correct?
I never even thought about that. I can check it in the morning. Hope that's it.
I just don't think electronics and tans at the same time.I am to old school and need to change my thinking
You guys truly know you stuff.

Thanks