Well that was not fun!!!!!

Four dodgy axle stands, two jacks and a spirit level got her up just high enough.

Shattered two torx 27 bits (see pic) and had to fight everyone of the bolts out, some with a cold chisel and hammer!!!! One sheared... I have left it in until I can get up on a hoist and drill it out. I hope it does not matter too much!!

4.5 litres came out and 6 went in so I am happy with that. The colour of the old oil was a lot darker than I expected!

I hope not to have to that again too soon!!

 

Horrors! Thanks for the post, though.

You've got the new pan on but a torx still to drill out & fit a new one?

 

Yep, there is one sheared torx bolt to drill out and replace. It is along the long axis so I'm hoping I can wait until next week when I can get the use of a hoist...

There does not appear to be any leakage from that area but I don't want to take any chances. As high as I could get it in my shed, it was not high enough to wield the drill with any surety.

 

Good job, will be doing mine soon so trying to get as much info as I could before I jump in.

 

When you snap a bolt head off a lot of times when you get the pan off there is a small stub sticking up. Several people have got Vice-Grips on the stub and twisted it right out.

With the pan on you will need to drill.
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What's your total work time estimated ? Did mine a few days ago and look about 3hrs including jacking it up which was a pain.

 

I would guess about four hours actual work time.... Don't want to count two trips out to replace broken torx bits... Bought half a dozen second time out.

Only really tricky bit first time is getting the new sleeve in (thanks JTIS). Gotta be positioned just right or the locking strip won't lock. That locking strip look a little fragile and you don't want to force it!!!!

I reckon if everything went 'normal' the whole job could be done in about two hours, even including waiting for the fluid to warm up.

Good luck! Hope your experience is better than mine.

 

I also had problems with the pan bolts until I used a manual impact wrench. A quick smack with a hammer will break them loose pretty easy.

Just twisting with a wrench does not have the needed speed/momentum to spin them out.
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Finally.... Doug 1 - sheared bolt 0

Only took hours and hours!!!!! Not a job to wish on your worst enemy!!!

 

Hello,
Just removing the oilpan will indeed only get you 4.5 liters out of there.
But there is 10 liters in there.
I had flush the gearbox last Thursday, they used 12 liters to flush is.
They used the oilpipe at the cooler to do that, pumping fresh oil in, and dumping the old oil in a reservoir. They used a special machine for that.

regards,
Peter jan

 

Can I ask what a dealer charged for 12 litres of oil? I'm thinking we're into second mortgage territory here!!! My local dealer was asking $100 per litre just buy it from the parts counter.

 

I think that most owners who choose to flush these ZF units (rather than drain-and-fill) almost always use a much less-costly ATF than Lifeguard 6. I agree with you - I would not pay Lifeguard 6 prices if I opted to flush....

 

Did not go to the dealer for that, that is way to expensive.
Used a independent Jaguar specialist.
They use Kroon oil, SP MATIC 2092 ( for 6Hp26 )
Total cost about 450 euro's

See: Kroon-Oil

 

Now you've gone and done it! Here's the spec sheet for those that want it.

 

I hope you installed a new filter while doing this job.

 

Jon, the Lifeguard 6 is really not that expensive if you get the kit from Klauss.

 

I purchased a kit from Klaus last summer to do a drain-and-fill on my wife's 2006 XK8's ZF. While not nearly as expensive as the dealership, I still consider $19 per litre to be a tad pricey....

 

No problem, it is your car and your money after all. I won't mess with my ZF to save 8 bucks a litre. Considering this will never be done again before I part with the car. at 85000 now.