1998 jaguar xjr , after replacing engine and A LOT of other little things . I finally got my car to start. But now the crank shaft pully is starting comming off everytime it runs . So im pretty sure its not tight enough. I am wondering what the correct method is for Tightening it down . What i was going to do was use the cam shaft locking tool to hold it in place while i tighten it but i wanted to know if anyone has ever done this or if it can break something else becase of the amount of force needed to tighten the cranck shaft bolt down . Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Do not use a cam locking tool and then tighten the balancer. You'll risk breaking a chain.
How did you tighten the crank pulley before? I use a Ingersoll-Rand 1/2" air impact, turn up the air compressor, no locking tools and crank it down. To do it properly requires a very special tool which I think needs to be made.

 

Also, is the bolt new?

If not, the threads might be stretched.

Use a new bolt with some lock tite and the impact as stated....

 

DO NOT USE THE CAM/CRANK LOCK TOOLS TO LOOSEN/TIGHTEN THE DAMPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob

 

You can build a tool or buy one online. The crank bolt needs to be damn tight, I just went through this several times with my car. New bolt, tightening the **** out of it, seems to have been fine last 50 miles or so.

If you want an idea of how the tool can look, see my post here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1636136 I have dimensions if needed

You may be able to buy the OEM tool here https://jaguar.service-solutions.com...ory/1/4/Engine for a lot of money. Don't forget the extension for the XJR.

 

If you have a tool similar to this, do it that way. However the purpose for the cam lock down tool and the flexplate pin to lock the engine in place. I've taken these apart by hand using the cam lock down tools and flexplate pin, never broken a timing chain. If you have all 3 tools in place, there shouldn't be any movement of the timing chain, so no risk of breaking it. As you see below, the torque spec. Once you remove the bolt, you need to clean the threads inside the crank. If you decide to use the old bolt, clean the threads on that as well, or install a new one. Apply some Loctite to the bolt. Then you'll need to find a torque wrench that will go to 386Nm, or close enough. My torque wrench went to 250 ft lbs, then it was after that it was up to my judgement how much tighter to go. I've never had one fail or broken a timing chain using the lock tools, ever.




Tighten the damper securing bolt.

1. Reposition the damper to allow access to the bolt holes for installing the locking tool.
2. Install the locking tool (303-01 and 303-01-02) to the damper using the bolts provided.
3. Fully tighten the damper securing bolt to 364-386 Nm.

 

I fashioned a balancer tool 20 years ago for my XJS. It is a simple 3/8" thick bar I bought from a local steel supply for $10. I then drilled the holes and ground out an opening to put a socket on the bolt. I have since use the same tool for at least a dozen different cars. Occasionally I add another hole or two to match a new size balancer...but the tool just keeps adapting.

I would not think of using the cam tool...remember the ratio at the tool doubles the torque it sees! Also the crank pin is not intended to take that much torque either. Take care of your tools and they take care of you.

To use the bar, I bolt it to the damper so the end hits on the ground. You can then lay on the bolt without fear of hurting anything.

 

The correct way of tightening the supercharged crank damper is using the hold down tool, either the SPX or similar, it slips inside the pulley and around the bolt.
1. A new bolt and cone fitted
2. bolt the hold down tool to the pulley - turn the engine clockwise until the tool end is either on the floor or against the chassis.
3. Tighten the bolt up to 375Nm (I use a 5ft long Britool torque wrench)
4. Fit belts.
Any other way and it'll slip causing damage to the crank nose which cannot be easily repaired!

 

Thank you for all of the replys . Im gunna go buy an impact gun and try that method with the lock tight. Because i dont have a way to make the other tools though i would like to . Using the impact gun would it be best to remove the belts or leave them on to help prevent the pully from spinning or dose it spin fast enough that its not a problem?

 

FYI, many auto parts and tool stores rent these tools.

 

So, what kind of torque do you figure you'll get with an impact wrench??

 

A 1" drive impact can probably get 1,000 Lb/Ft torque????

bob

 

Here is something simple that I did and it worked just fine to hold the harmonic balancer for bolt tightening. If I were to do it again (and I might have to...because all my problems aren't solved!) I would put a strap on the other side of the balancer. It shouldn't be a problem when tightening the bolt clockwise, but when removing the rented tool to push the balancer / split ring onto the crankshaft (turning counterclockwise for removal), the whole assembly, including the crankshaft, moved back a scoshe. Not ideal for engine life, but the engine runs properly so got away with it

.

 

And that is exactly my point. If you install bolts with an impact wrench you deserve what you get. Back before Discount Tire led the industry with actually using torque wrenches to install wheel nuts, I had it out with many errant mechanics that swore they could "turn down the pressure", and refused to use a torque wrench. I never went back to any of them...and had them walk away from my car.

You cannot control the torque with an impact wrench. If you think you can you are not being realistic. They are for removing nuts and bolts only.

 

Hi I have just done mine.no special tool needed.get under car look at the bottom of the bellhouseing and there is a black plastic plate.pull it off.you will see the back of the torq converter there are welder bolt hole housing brackets .then get a Jack handle feed the handle into hole and locate it at the side of bracket turn engine so the flywheel locks against your bar and bell housing.now torq up your bolt..worked for me.

 

If that's going through the timing holes in the flywheel that can cause the same damage as using the locking pin tool when removing the bolt.

 

Not sure it's the back of the torq converter.i a jaguar specialist uses this method and told me to do this and it worked and car started first time no issues

 

I've read about someone using the flywheel/TC mounting bolts by wedging a prybar between a couple to keep the crank from spinning that way, that should work without damaging anything. It seemed like it would be a bit fiddly to do on the driveway on your back with only so much space from the ground though...

 

You jack car up put axle stand under.and i used the end of a jack handle and the welded brackets on torq converter i wedged the bar between that and the bell housing .worked spot on .car started first time after doing my timming chains