Hello all! I have a really annoying issue and would love some help. I have read all sorts of threads on the topic of misfires, but I have yet to read one where their was a clear answer. To start I have a 2003 X-type, 3.0 with 120,000 miles. As the title says I have a misfire on all my bank one cylinders. It only occurs when I put the engine under a healthy load while driving (tried putting in drive with brakes on and nothing happened) and it is severe. I have changed the plugs (Bosch Iridium), coils and both 02 sensors and nothing has changed. I don't seem to have any vacuum leaks unless it is only happening under load. Has anyone had any experience with a timing solenoid going bad? Would it cause this problem to occur? Any help or advice would be much appreciated!!!!!!!!


Thank you in advance!!!!

 

I just signed up after reading your post. Be EXTRA sure about the vacuum leak(s) and stick head under hood to hear potential hissing. I might be wrong, but I suddenly had the same type of misfire issue resulting in big time performance issues after "load", such as accellerating from 30MPH and on. Initially thought my transmission was burning out. Didnt drive it the moment it acted up, then it acted right for a few days, then acted up again. Every time, during load. Got codes returned that lead me in several false directions and changed stuff I didnt need changing. Was fortunate that it was only an inexpensive fix. In the end, it was a simple brake booster vacuum hose that hissed due to a slight hole in the plastic assembly. They're known to crack over time. Part W0133-1657647. $75, but I first patched the entire thing with a clay that hardens to stop the air leak. Snatched one at a salvage yard, and my car runs normal now. Weird that a simple little leak at that junction makes the car run like CRAP. Even if you don't think its the part, I would first put clay hardener around the plastic piece thats colored black & white, then see if there's an improvement. Good luck. Also look at the mass air flow sensors that can be exchanged at Autozone for about $70. Return 'em if you determine the sensors aren't bad, tell clerk your mechanic found out u had a vacuum leak.

 

Forgot to mention that access to the brake vacuum booster hose is a cinch. It's an elevated black vacuum hose that connects to your master cylinder and is just below your driver side windshield as you look under the hood.

 

Bombay, Thank you for your response. I will try the items you mentioned. I dont believe it's my brake booster line because it is black and grey and looks like it has been replaced in the recent past and I cannot hear any type of leak even when I rev the engine. But If its only a $75 part I will replace it anyway and the MAF sensors before I spend the $800 to replace one catalytic converter. I will update you on how it turned out.

 

Update..... Well after spending way to much money on parts I really didnt need I decided to ignore the "professionals" and go with my gut and have the catalytic converters gutted. The rear converter (bank 2) had been clogged by the insulation in the cat. Immediatley after putting the car back together the problem disappeared. And the most suprising part is just how much better my X-type runs now. For anyone who is having the type of issue I am (misfire on one side of motor and random misfore) CHECK YOUR CATALYTIC CONVERTER FIRST!!!!!! Save yourself alot of time and money.

 

Thanks for your update , it seems a wise idea to check cats first then

 

Hey Blanco ... I'm having random misfire codes on bank 1 as well. (Along with bank 1 lean and the left cat not up to snuff). When you say gutted the Catalytic converters, do you mean literally removing the insides?? If so, does this affect the SMOG check??

Thanks for reporting your experience. I too have replaced all kinds of seals, coils, etc etc. I'm just about had it with this thing.

Regards,

Les

 

Les ... Yes, I took the car down to a local exhaust shop and the owner and myself removed the cats (which was a nightmare) and cleaned out everything inside. Once you clean out the cats you will have to space out the down stream O2 sensors with one sparkplug non-fouler each to keep it from throwing a check engine light. I have driven mine a little over 5000 miles now and have not had a CEL yet. Thier are pros and cons to doing this.... First the pros: If your cat is clogged it will instantly fix the problem. I have had my car checked out (hooked up to a very expensive computer program and run through a bunch of tests) and most x-types operate at about 80-85% efficiency with good cats, without mine is at 92%. Which means a little more power and a slight mpg increase. Now for the cons: With the cats hollow now you will have cavitation inside and that causes noise. When the car is cold the cats will be a little loud (almost sounds like a slight exhaust leak) but once they are up to temp it's not to bad. You will not be able to pass an emissions check once you do this. A shop that is willing to do this job will not be the most reputable business so I would find a reputable shop first to double check your cat is bad. I hope this helps you out. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.

Randall

 

Blanko: can you elaborate on (space out the sensor) and(a spark plug non fouler) I have not heard those terms before.Did you reconnect the O2 #2?.I have heard of a (test pipe)for the converter but this eliminates the cat.and will throw a MIL.
Thanks:

 

Yes, by space out I mean you will have to use the spark plug non-fouler in between your cats and your downstream O2 sensors. A sparkplug non-fouler is pretty much what is sounds like, it is used in older cars that have oil blow by and because of that the plugs are getting soaked in oil and failing. You can buy them at most autoparts stores including: Advanced Auto, Autozone and Pepboys. Just ask one of the employees and they should know what you are talking about. The standard size fits the X-type perfectly. You will have to drill out the inside of the threaded end of the non-fouler to fit the O2 sensor though. You can use a test pipe but will have to use the same type of spacers to avoid a check engine light. The reason for using the non-fouler is to pull the O2 sensor out of the main air flow in the cat and trick it into thinking it is reading correctly. ANd yes I did re-install the #2 (downstream) O2 sensors and have had no issues with over 5000 miles. Now I will caution you though, if you have emissions testing where you live your car will NOT pass.............

 

2004 Toyota Avalon misfires on one bank- code P0171 and sometimes P0174 is triggered when bank 2 sensor detects too much oxygen in the exhaust
Possible causes
1) Bank 1 sensor one air fuel ratio meter-if you have to replace...replace with good brand not cheap one. clear codes, take battery cables off and touch together to clear voltage from computer.
This has two air fuel ratios sensors and 2 oxygen sensors
1a) Exhaust leak before 1st 02 sensor.
2) Mass Air flow sensor- change air filter also protects sensor
3) Variable Camshaft Timing Solenoid
4) Clogged screen to Variable Camshaft Timing Solenoid oil passages in cylinder heads
5) PCV valve and passages- engine has sludge build up issues
5a) PCV hoses cracked, kinked. be sure to check connections on air intake and check for intake manifold leaks
Fought this issue for 4 days finally found problem with new cheap aftermarket air fuel ratio sensors that were already installed not playing nice.

 

Uh......just curious.....if you drive a Toyota Avalon why are you posting in a Jaguar X-Type forum?

 

 

Hello, your bank 1 cat is bad, the one near the transfer case!

 

Hello? Old thread!!