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also, do I have to take off the air pump to get the dang wiring harness out from under it?! Ha jeez the right side doesn't want to come out from under it. Can't wait to clean it all up, a Jag V12 is a mouse castle
About 10 minutes with a hacksaw gets the whole mess out, nothing to it. Leave the pump in place and also the pipe that runs from the pump to the rear of the V. Then everything is much much easier
ANYWAY, looking at the snap of those injectors in post 39, those barbs where the fuel hose push on are NO good for the ferrule system, they will leak, and like Doug "coughed up" about plate orientation, I know by default.
Whoever removed those old fuel hoses has scored them badly, and the "sharpness" of the barb is gone, and will NOT grip the new hose.
You will need to sit down, carefully smooth the edges of those barbs, and then take a nail file, and even more carefully file those vertical scratches out of the spigot, and I do mean carefully. Then you will need EFI clamps with the new hoses, and NO ferrules.
If those vertical scratches are left as is, the fuel WILL flow up them and set fire to your new toy, fact. It will matter NOT, how good you clamp them, those scratches are a fast track for hi pressure fuel.
If you dont understand what I mean, ask, and I will go into great depth for you.
ANYWAY, looking at the snap of those injectors in post 39, those barbs where the fuel hose push on are NO good for the ferrule system, they will leak, and like Doug "coughed up" about plate orientation, I know by default.
Whoever removed those old fuel hoses has scored them badly, and the "sharpness" of the barb is gone, and will NOT grip the new hose.
You will need to sit down, carefully smooth the edges of those barbs, and then take a nail file, and even more carefully file those vertical scratches out of the spigot, and I do mean carefully. Then you will need EFI clamps with the new hoses, and NO ferrules.
If those vertical scratches are left as is, the fuel WILL flow up them and set fire to your new toy, fact. It will matter NOT, how good you clamp them, those scratches are a fast track for hi pressure fuel.
If you dont understand what I mean, ask, and I will go into great depth for you.
That odd injector is very suspect.
I see what you mean. Yeah I know that the fuel hose on that injector came off real easy. I was actually kind of surprised. I took that one off right away to save the hose for measuring the new efi hose im going to get. Too bad Jaguar waited so long to integrate the fuelrail. Could've saved a lot of headaches and fires. Well I guess I'll just stick with the efi clamps and inspect them every so often.
About 10 minutes with a hacksaw gets the whole mess out, nothing to it. Leave the pump in place and also the pipe that runs from the pump to the rear of the V. Then everything is much much easier
thats too easy 😀. I want to inspect and study the whole harness to see if I have the ability to redo it or just the ability to replace the connectors. Ha
thats too easy 😀. I want to inspect and study the whole harness to see if I have the ability to redo it or just the ability to replace the connectors. Ha
I as referring to the air injection pipes. NOT the loom!
Good for you getting it all out and decently clean. Now new plugs, cap, HT leads, injectors refurbed, and make sure the dizzy rotor snaps back when turned anticlockwise. If not carefully lubricate with fully syn oil at the base of the mechanism below the star wheel.
The wiring to and from the amplifier looks pretty rough too. It would be a good plan to make quite sure all those bodged up loom joins are good. Good luck with it all
Good for you getting it all out and decently clean. Now new plugs, cap, HT leads, injectors refurbed, and make sure the dizzy rotor snaps back when turned anticlockwise. If not carefully lubricate with fully syn oil at the base of the mechanism below the star wheel.
The wiring to and from the amplifier looks pretty rough too. It would be a good plan to make quite sure all those bodged up loom joins are good. Good luck with it all
Yep, I've already got new efi hose to redo the rail. Going to get some new plugs and injector plugs soon. Etc. now that it's all out I can take my time fixing it. Yeah I noticed a lot of the wiring to the amplifier looks rough as well. I'm going to check it all and wrap it if it's ok
Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Well done.
Lots of work there, but very doable.
Yeah it's definitely more intense because of the amount of stuff. It's just double or triple the amount of everything I'm used to in one engine. I did the plugs, wires, cap and rotor on my Porsche in about and hour.. this has been a multi day adventure a couple hours at a time. Ha
Alright, so I finally got around to cleaning the injector and am I ever glad I did! I found one of the injectors is dead, which is why I'm sure it was running a tad rough.
question, I love utilizing my local junkyard for parts. Are there any injectors that are used in other cars from the era or even now that I could pull out of something and keep my project on the cheap? I thought I read once some Mercedes used them?
I can't remember if there's a Bosch number on the injectors. If there is you might do some Googling and see what comes up. Injectors are pretty precisely calibrated to the specific engine, as far as I know, so I sorta doubt that any other car used the same injectors....but can't hurt to see what's out there. I could be wrong !
I can't remember if there's a Bosch number on the injectors. If there is you might do some Googling and see what comes up. Injectors are pretty precisely calibrated to the specific engine, as far as I know, so I sorta doubt that any other car used the same injectors....but can't hurt to see what's out there. I could be wrong !
Cheers
DD
yeah I'll have to look... most of the injectors look beat to crap I'm not sure I can read the number. There is already one wildcard injector in the set that doesn't match.
My listing shows the Bosch # for the HE Injector as:0 280 150 163
It is for the P Digital system up to 2/90 build date.
Originally Posted by 944xjs
yeah I was searching... the ones in mine are 0280150161... still couldn't find anything but a few on eBay.
Here are the pertinent Bosch specifications for #161-164. 161&162 are discontinued, but you'll find they all are identical in spec. other than hose length.
Code:
Injector type OE NR. Type "Info production stop(status 01.2008)" offer drawing Resistance (Ohm) Test medium Operating pressure (kPa) Operating pressure (PSI) Q-stat (at operating pressure) (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (ml/min) q-dyn with 300 kPa, ti 2,5 ms (g/1000 Imp.) Spray type "Spray angle alfa-50 (for 2 beam)" "Spray angle alfa-80 (for cone-characteristic)" axial deviation angle (spray bent angle) Spray orientation angle Spray distribution (area, spray amount) allowed fuels Version, type Electrical connector locating lug (anti rotation device) hydr. connection to manifold hydr. connection to fuel rail "Distance between O-rings(O-Ring to O-Ring)" Total length
0280150161 0 280 150 161 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115
0280150162 0 280 150 162 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160
0280150163 0 280 150 163 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160
0280150164 0 280 150 164 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115
I've purchased several manufactured by Intermotor and been pleased with their quality / performance. FJ633 is the Standard Motor Products (Intermotor) part number. Best price I find is at autopartskart.com. The GBR parts on that page are cheaper, but remanufactured. I have no idea their quality. Summit racing carries the Intermotor part as well.
Here are the pertinent Bosch specifications for #161-164. 161&162 are discontinued, but you'll find they all are identical in spec. other than hose length.
Code:
Injector type OE NR. Type "Info production stop(status 01.2008)" offer drawing Resistance (Ohm) Test medium Operating pressure (kPa) Operating pressure (PSI) Q-stat (at operating pressure) (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (ml/min) q-dyn with 300 kPa, ti 2,5 ms (g/1000 Imp.) Spray type "Spray angle alfa-50 (for 2 beam)" "Spray angle alfa-80 (for cone-characteristic)" axial deviation angle (spray bent angle) Spray orientation angle Spray distribution (area, spray amount) allowed fuels Version, type Electrical connector locating lug (anti rotation device) hydr. connection to manifold hydr. connection to fuel rail "Distance between O-rings(O-Ring to O-Ring)" Total length
0280150161 0 280 150 161 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115
0280150162 0 280 150 162 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160
0280150163 0 280 150 163 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160
0280150164 0 280 150 164 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115
I've purchased several manufactured by Intermotor and been pleased with their quality / performance. FJ633 is the Standard Motor Products (Intermotor) part number. Best price I find is at autopartskart.com. The GBR parts on that page are cheaper, but remanufactured. I have no idea their quality. Summit racing carries the Intermotor part as well.
the reman for $25 is nice... I'm guessing shipping to the USA will eat the good price though. I put a bid on a used eBay piece...
