The old 88' starts and runs a tad rough! vid inside
#41
05-20-2017, 04:06 AM
Veteran Member
About 10 minutes with a hacksaw gets the whole mess out, nothing to it. Leave the pump in place and also the pipe that runs from the pump to the rear of the V. Then everything is much much easier
#42
05-20-2017, 06:33 AM
Been away collecting an X300R, tough life.
ANYWAY, looking at the snap of those injectors in post 39, those barbs where the fuel hose push on are NO good for the ferrule system, they will leak, and like Doug "coughed up" about plate orientation, I know by default.
Whoever removed those old fuel hoses has scored them badly, and the "sharpness" of the barb is gone, and will NOT grip the new hose.
You will need to sit down, carefully smooth the edges of those barbs, and then take a nail file, and even more carefully file those vertical scratches out of the spigot, and I do mean carefully. Then you will need EFI clamps with the new hoses, and NO ferrules.
If those vertical scratches are left as is, the fuel WILL flow up them and set fire to your new toy, fact. It will matter NOT, how good you clamp them, those scratches are a fast track for hi pressure fuel.
If you dont understand what I mean, ask, and I will go into great depth for you.
That odd injector is very suspect.
ANYWAY, looking at the snap of those injectors in post 39, those barbs where the fuel hose push on are NO good for the ferrule system, they will leak, and like Doug "coughed up" about plate orientation, I know by default.
Whoever removed those old fuel hoses has scored them badly, and the "sharpness" of the barb is gone, and will NOT grip the new hose.
You will need to sit down, carefully smooth the edges of those barbs, and then take a nail file, and even more carefully file those vertical scratches out of the spigot, and I do mean carefully. Then you will need EFI clamps with the new hoses, and NO ferrules.
If those vertical scratches are left as is, the fuel WILL flow up them and set fire to your new toy, fact. It will matter NOT, how good you clamp them, those scratches are a fast track for hi pressure fuel.
If you dont understand what I mean, ask, and I will go into great depth for you.
That odd injector is very suspect.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (05-20-2017)
#43
05-20-2017, 10:29 AM
Been away collecting an X300R, tough life.
ANYWAY, looking at the snap of those injectors in post 39, those barbs where the fuel hose push on are NO good for the ferrule system, they will leak, and like Doug "coughed up" about plate orientation, I know by default.
Whoever removed those old fuel hoses has scored them badly, and the "sharpness" of the barb is gone, and will NOT grip the new hose.
You will need to sit down, carefully smooth the edges of those barbs, and then take a nail file, and even more carefully file those vertical scratches out of the spigot, and I do mean carefully. Then you will need EFI clamps with the new hoses, and NO ferrules.
If those vertical scratches are left as is, the fuel WILL flow up them and set fire to your new toy, fact. It will matter NOT, how good you clamp them, those scratches are a fast track for hi pressure fuel.
If you dont understand what I mean, ask, and I will go into great depth for you.
That odd injector is very suspect.
ANYWAY, looking at the snap of those injectors in post 39, those barbs where the fuel hose push on are NO good for the ferrule system, they will leak, and like Doug "coughed up" about plate orientation, I know by default.
Whoever removed those old fuel hoses has scored them badly, and the "sharpness" of the barb is gone, and will NOT grip the new hose.
You will need to sit down, carefully smooth the edges of those barbs, and then take a nail file, and even more carefully file those vertical scratches out of the spigot, and I do mean carefully. Then you will need EFI clamps with the new hoses, and NO ferrules.
If those vertical scratches are left as is, the fuel WILL flow up them and set fire to your new toy, fact. It will matter NOT, how good you clamp them, those scratches are a fast track for hi pressure fuel.
If you dont understand what I mean, ask, and I will go into great depth for you.
That odd injector is very suspect.
#44
05-20-2017, 10:33 AM
thats too easy 😀. I want to inspect and study the whole harness to see if I have the ability to redo it or just the ability to replace the connectors. Ha
#45
05-20-2017, 12:42 PM
Veteran Member
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Grant Francis (05-21-2017)
#47
05-21-2017, 04:56 AM
#48
05-21-2017, 09:48 AM
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (05-21-2017)
#49
05-22-2017, 05:32 PM
#50
05-23-2017, 02:32 AM
Veteran Member
Good for you getting it all out and decently clean. Now new plugs, cap, HT leads, injectors refurbed, and make sure the dizzy rotor snaps back when turned anticlockwise. If not carefully lubricate with fully syn oil at the base of the mechanism below the star wheel.
The wiring to and from the amplifier looks pretty rough too. It would be a good plan to make quite sure all those bodged up loom joins are good. Good luck with it all
The wiring to and from the amplifier looks pretty rough too. It would be a good plan to make quite sure all those bodged up loom joins are good. Good luck with it all
#51
05-23-2017, 04:45 AM
#52
05-23-2017, 10:19 AM
Good for you getting it all out and decently clean. Now new plugs, cap, HT leads, injectors refurbed, and make sure the dizzy rotor snaps back when turned anticlockwise. If not carefully lubricate with fully syn oil at the base of the mechanism below the star wheel.
The wiring to and from the amplifier looks pretty rough too. It would be a good plan to make quite sure all those bodged up loom joins are good. Good luck with it all
The wiring to and from the amplifier looks pretty rough too. It would be a good plan to make quite sure all those bodged up loom joins are good. Good luck with it all
Yeah it's definitely more intense because of the amount of stuff. It's just double or triple the amount of everything I'm used to in one engine. I did the plugs, wires, cap and rotor on my Porsche in about and hour.. this has been a multi day adventure a couple hours at a time. Ha
#53
05-28-2017, 11:00 PM
Alright, so I finally got around to cleaning the injector and am I ever glad I did! I found one of the injectors is dead, which is why I'm sure it was running a tad rough. 
question, I love utilizing my local junkyard for parts. Are there any injectors that are used in other cars from the era or even now that I could pull out of something and keep my project on the cheap? I thought I read once some Mercedes used them?
question, I love utilizing my local junkyard for parts. Are there any injectors that are used in other cars from the era or even now that I could pull out of something and keep my project on the cheap? I thought I read once some Mercedes used them?
#54
05-28-2017, 11:14 PM
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I can't remember if there's a Bosch number on the injectors. If there is you might do some Googling and see what comes up. Injectors are pretty precisely calibrated to the specific engine, as far as I know, so I sorta doubt that any other car used the same injectors....but can't hurt to see what's out there. I could be wrong !
Cheers
DD
Cheers
DD
#55
05-29-2017, 12:16 AM
I can't remember if there's a Bosch number on the injectors. If there is you might do some Googling and see what comes up. Injectors are pretty precisely calibrated to the specific engine, as far as I know, so I sorta doubt that any other car used the same injectors....but can't hurt to see what's out there. I could be wrong !
Cheers
DD
Cheers
DD
#56
05-29-2017, 04:00 AM
#57
05-29-2017, 11:47 AM
My listing shows the Bosch # for the HE Injector as:
0 280 150 163
It is for the P Digital system up to 2/90 build date.
No cross reference to any other engine that I can find.
0 280 150 163
It is for the P Digital system up to 2/90 build date.
No cross reference to any other engine that I can find.
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Grant Francis (05-30-2017)
#58
05-30-2017, 04:37 PM
Veteran Member
Code:
Injector type OE NR. Type "Info production stop(status 01.2008)" offer drawing Resistance (Ohm) Test medium Operating pressure (kPa) Operating pressure (PSI) Q-stat (at operating pressure) (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (ml/min) q-dyn with 300 kPa, ti 2,5 ms (g/1000 Imp.) Spray type "Spray angle alfa-50 (for 2 beam)" "Spray angle alfa-80 (for cone-characteristic)" axial deviation angle (spray bent angle) Spray orientation angle Spray distribution (area, spray amount) allowed fuels Version, type Electrical connector locating lug (anti rotation device) hydr. connection to manifold hydr. connection to fuel rail "Distance between O-rings(O-Ring to O-Ring)" Total length 0280150161 0 280 150 161 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115 0280150162 0 280 150 162 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160 0280150163 0 280 150 163 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160 0280150164 0 280 150 164 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115
Last edited by JigJag; 05-30-2017 at 04:42 PM.
#59
05-30-2017, 09:12 PM
Here are the pertinent Bosch specifications for #161-164. 161&162 are discontinued, but you'll find they all are identical in spec. other than hose length.
I've purchased several manufactured by Intermotor and been pleased with their quality / performance. FJ633 is the Standard Motor Products (Intermotor) part number. Best price I find is at autopartskart.com. The GBR parts on that page are cheaper, but remanufactured. I have no idea their quality. Summit racing carries the Intermotor part as well.
Code:
Injector type OE NR. Type "Info production stop(status 01.2008)" offer drawing Resistance (Ohm) Test medium Operating pressure (kPa) Operating pressure (PSI) Q-stat (at operating pressure) (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (g/min) Q-stat with 300 kPa (ml/min) q-dyn with 300 kPa, ti 2,5 ms (g/1000 Imp.) Spray type "Spray angle alfa-50 (for 2 beam)" "Spray angle alfa-80 (for cone-characteristic)" axial deviation angle (spray bent angle) Spray orientation angle Spray distribution (area, spray amount) allowed fuels Version, type Electrical connector locating lug (anti rotation device) hydr. connection to manifold hydr. connection to fuel rail "Distance between O-rings(O-Ring to O-Ring)" Total length 0280150161 0 280 150 161 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115 0280150162 0 280 150 162 EV 1 production stop, ask! A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160 0280150163 0 280 150 163 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 160 0280150164 0 280 150 164 EV 1 A 280 400 177 2.4 Ch20v3 300 43.5114 143.4 143.4 205 4.19 A ¤ 19° ¤ ¤ 8°-30°¤>40% ¤ 1.1 Jetronic no special grommet hose straight ¤ 115
