XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

The old 88' starts and runs a tad rough! vid inside

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  #21  
Old 05-17-2017, 03:57 AM
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Ferrules are needed. That injector loom is a fire waiting to happen. You really must get a new loom and do the rail and flexibles from rail to injector properly. Doing the dizzy and the HT leads and new plugs at the same time when everything is off. Two days work in total once you have the bits. The injector loom is available but very dear, so making one is quite doable but takes quite a bit of time.
I do not think you should risk starting the car until this is done.
 
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  #22  
Old 05-17-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Ferrules are needed. That injector loom is a fire waiting to happen. You really must get a new loom and do the rail and flexibles from rail to injector properly. Doing the dizzy and the HT leads and new plugs at the same time when everything is off. Two days work in total once you have the bits. The injector loom is available but very dear, so making one is quite doable but takes quite a bit of time.
I do not think you should risk starting the car until this is done.
yeah the prices of new harnesses are crazy! I should've looked at the condition of the harness in the junkyard car I was at last week...2hrs away darn. I was planning on doing all plugs and wires and fuel lines... didn't think I was going to have to do something with the injector harness. 💸
 
  #23  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:59 PM
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yes, yes, yes, the ferrules are needed. They actually help the hose form a tighter seal on the barbed piping ends.

I just replaced my plug wires with Magnecor ELECTROSPORT 8mm wires. At first I had a "tic tic tic or tapping noise at the engine. My first thought was a valve. Further inspection with the motor running and the lights off in the garage showed that I had two issues. First, one plug wire not fully seated so it was arcing to earth. That took care of the tic tic tic. Second was there were numerous "dancing blue gremlins" on the wires. I had replacement OEM 7mm wires on the car. I decided that jaguar + fuel hoses + excessive electricity was not a good equation. New wires took care of blue gremlins. I feel MUCH better knowing that the likelihood of an engine fire has been significantly reduced. No sense tempting fate on with a 30 year old car.
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BradsCat
yes, yes, yes, the ferrules are needed. They actually help the hose form a tighter seal on the barbed piping ends.

I just replaced my plug wires with Magnecor ELECTROSPORT 8mm wires. At first I had a "tic tic tic or tapping noise at the engine. My first thought was a valve. Further inspection with the motor running and the lights off in the garage showed that I had two issues. First, one plug wire not fully seated so it was arcing to earth. That took care of the tic tic tic. Second was there were numerous "dancing blue gremlins" on the wires. I had replacement OEM 7mm wires on the car. I decided that jaguar + fuel hoses + excessive electricity was not a good equation. New wires took care of blue gremlins. I feel MUCH better knowing that the likelihood of an engine fire has been significantly reduced. No sense tempting fate on with a 30 year old car.
yeah I took the fuel rail off today and a quarter of the injector plugs look like they've already been on fire... one was missing the clip and was ziptied on . So did you just splice in new injector plugs? I want a new harness but the costs are crazy. I figure I could even do what others have done and gotten plugs out of the junkyard off of a couple bmws(they fit I guess?). When you first look at the engine it seems daunting but getting the rail off was easy I just took it injectors and all. Taped it all off and am going to replace all hoses and ferrules etc and paint the rail.

 
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 944xjs
So did you just splice in new injector plugs?
You could, but do yourself a favor and just make up a new harness. It isn't hard. Takes a few hours; enjoyable project

I figure I could even do what others have done and gotten plugs out of the junkyard off of a couple bmws(they fit I guess?).

Get new ones. Google "Bosch Fuel Injector Connector". Lots of choices and price ranges


When you first look at the engine it seems daunting but getting the rail off was easy I just took it injectors and all. Taped it all off and am going to replace all hoses and ferrules etc and paint the rail.

Make sure you keep track of the orientation of the hold-down plates. Make a sketch before disassembly. It wouldn't be fun to finish the job and *then* realize it all has to come apart again because the hold-downs are not oriented properly. Not that I would know...ahem.... from personal experience, of course. Just....cough cough...speculation on my part

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:53 PM
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Rebuild the feed and return pipes as well. It's essentially the same as the process used on the injectors.

Cheers
DD
 
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  #27  
Old 05-17-2017, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug
You could, but do yourself a favor and just make up a new harness. It isn't hard. Takes a few hours; enjoyable project




Get new ones. Google "Bosch Fuel Injector Connector". Lots of choices and price ranges





Make sure you keep track of the orientation of the hold-down plates. Make a sketch before disassembly. It wouldn't be fun to finish the job and *then* realize it all has to come apart again because the hold-downs are not oriented properly. Not that I would know...ahem.... from personal experience, of course. Just....cough cough...speculation on my part

Cheers
DD
Ha, thanks for the tip! I didn't even think about the little plates orientation. Yeah I was already researching the connectors and what not. Seems like a hundred bucks just for a set of those. Is there a site or document on redoing the harness? I'm good with pretty much anything mechanical and not worrying about doing it right.. wiring though, I've only really done minor stuff on guitars and soldering mainly. Something needs to be done with this harness though... I guess I just shouldn't fear messing it up cause if it's not fixed a fire could definitely be a possibility.
 
  #28  
Old 05-18-2017, 01:02 AM
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Why not remove the air injection pipes while you are in there, too?
 
  #29  
Old 05-18-2017, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Why not remove the air injection pipes while you are in there, too?
ive seen others say that on other threads...does anything need to be blocked off or just take the junk off?
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:25 AM
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The pumps intake tube draws from behind the air filter. That opening must be capped.
 
  #31  
Old 05-18-2017, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 944xjs
ive seen others say that on other threads...does anything need to be blocked off or just take the junk off?

Each of the 12 holes left open when the injection tubes are removed must be plugged of. Lots of different ways of doing this; I think there's a thread with pics showing some of the different ideas.

I tapped the holes and used screw-in plugs. Very easy.

Cheers
DD
 
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  #32  
Old 05-18-2017, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 944xjs
Ha, thanks for the tip! I didn't even think about the little plates orientation. Yeah I was already researching the connectors and what not. Seems like a hundred bucks just for a set of those. Is there a site or document on redoing the harness?
Tons of good info in the archives here, including at least one thread dedicated to the subject. A quick search will reveal all you could want to know on the subject, and more !

Cheers
DD
 
  #33  
Old 05-18-2017, 07:57 AM
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Oh, yeah, errant spark and fuel under a lot of pressure. Imperative to keep each within it's own confines. Because of my former profession, I am very "fire" sensitive. Mere damage to property, I can live with. The horrible effects on live critters will forever haunt me.


Odd. Is my eye sight going away? Is my ability to count going astray? I count 5 injectors on each leg of that rail. OK for a Ford 10 Viton, but a Jag V12?


In our Jeep fuel pump travails, I came across "easy open" fuel line couplings. Yeah, once knowing how, easy, o'wise a puzzle.


Slick. fast for assembly line work. No threads to strip. Neat look, great seal.


Carl
easy t
 
  #34  
Old 05-18-2017, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug
Each of the 12 holes left open when the injection tubes are removed must be plugged of. Lots of different ways of doing this; I think there's a thread with pics showing some of the different ideas.

I tapped the holes and used screw-in plugs. Very easy.

Cheers
DD
ok thanks
 
  #35  
Old 05-18-2017, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Oh, yeah, errant spark and fuel under a lot of pressure. Imperative to keep each within it's own confines. Because of my former profession, I am very "fire" sensitive. Mere damage to property, I can live with. The horrible effects on live critters will forever haunt me.


Odd. Is my eye sight going away? Is my ability to count going astray? I count 5 injectors on each leg of that rail. OK for a Ford 10 Viton, but a Jag V12?


In our Jeep fuel pump travails, I came across "easy open" fuel line couplings. Yeah, once knowing how, easy, o'wise a puzzle.


Slick. fast for assembly line work. No threads to strip. Neat look, great seal.


Carl
easy t
ha, no there's only 10 on the rail itself the last 2 are forward connected with longer hose... I took those off, in the picture you can see them.
 
  #36  
Old 05-18-2017, 05:00 PM
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I am going to take the air injection system off my '87 later this summer. I don't think I am saving the environment given how little I actually drive the car and I think it will clean up the looks under the hood a bit.

I'll be replacing the rest of my fuel line hoses at that time too. I just replaced my spark plug wires with Magnecor ELECTROSPORT 8mm wires. $145 and well worth it IMO. An engine fire is the one thing that causes me anxiety with this car.
 
  #37  
Old 05-18-2017, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BradsCat
I am going to take the air injection system off my '87 later this summer. I don't think I am saving the environment given how little I actually drive the car and I think it will clean up the looks under the hood a bit.

I'll be replacing the rest of my fuel line hoses at that time too. I just replaced my spark plug wires with Magnecor ELECTROSPORT 8mm wires. $145 and well worth it IMO. An engine fire is the one thing that causes me anxiety with this car.
yeah there's something about the horror stories that make a 30yr old car with an engine the size of a tank make you want it to be in tip top shape. I'm going a budget minded route of either standard or ngk wires. As long as it's new I'll be happy.
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:52 PM
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The reason I went with Magnecor 8mm wires is that I checked the car out with it running in a dark garage. I noticed a significant amount of "blue dancing gremlins" in the V. The OEM 7mm wires and boots may not provide enough insulation for the high voltage required to operate the V-12. I wanted to do everything possible to guard against an engine fire with a 30 year old car that is known to have issues with them. Engine fires and overheating/dropped valves are the two most common things that doom these cars. Both are mainly due to improper maintenance.
 
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  #39  
Old 05-20-2017, 01:01 AM
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Quickly stopped by the jag today and took the last 2 injectors out and the plug wires etc. looks as though atleast one injector was replaced...this shouldn't effect things should it? Looks like a different nozzle.
also, do I have to take off the air pump to get the dang wiring harness out from under it?! Ha jeez the right side doesn't want to come out from under it. Can't wait to clean it all up, a Jag V12 is a mouse castle
 
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Old 05-20-2017, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BradsCat
I am going to take the air injection system off my '87 later this summer. I don't think I am saving the environment given how little I actually drive the car and I think it will clean up the looks under the hood a bit.
Rest Easy, Brad. for these reasons:
  1. the system is probably not working
  2. if it is it only pumps air for 45 seconds which makes naff-all difference to the environment.
 



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