Main pulley.
Driving along everything running nicely. Sound like I ran over a piece of chain. Power steering got heavy. Took immediate right. Engine pulled up hill to a safe spot to stop. All gauges still normal. Shut it off.

 

The front cone between pulley and crank has somehow snapped in half and popped out...

I'd assume your pulley is loose which would explain why the PAS was heavy...

 

Thank you Daim! I hope this is all fixable at home!

PS belt jumped, fan belt jumped, bolt is, scarily, at the same canted angle as the pulley.

So, repairable? Assuming bolt snapped getting that out will be fun.

theres your problem right there.

oh snap

if anyone can help with part numbers I'd really appreciate it! I'm not having luck finding the bolt or collar.

What else should I consider doing while I have the front opened up to fix this mess?

 

Hi Jig Jag

So Sorry to hear about that, as I thought that I would be doing that job myself on 'Cherry Blossom'
Let's hope that it won't take you very long to fix her.

 

Cone: C13892 (not available from Jaguar anymore)
Screw: C323671 (not available anymore)
Woodruf key: C757 (still available)

The screw is dead, but shouldn't shear off... It is a solid thing. But you'll want a nee, used ond, unless you can get a new screw.

 

The cones and bolt were used on lots of Jaguars, it's the same as on the 6 cylinder XK engine. You can get all the parts used and they will be fine. Talk to David Bodger at Everydayxj.com. He's good and very reasonably priced. I think in NC as well.

 

oh thank you for that good news!!! I was hoping I wouldn't have to buy an XJS to get them! I've been to Davids place, I'm sending him a message right now! Fingers crossed.

im hoping the bolt has sheered off or come out. It's that or the end of the crank is broken. That's hard stuff so maybe it backed out? I dropped it at the house to head back to work so I won't know till tonight.

 

Looks like your front main seal has been leaking for a good long time. You can get just the seal for $8 but I'd really recommend you get the seal and spacer kit for $60-$100. The spacer is the seal wear surface and show be replaced at the same time as the seal.

This is where a pressure washer is most handy. What a slimy mess these things get!

 

The bolt is supposed to be torqued to something like 150 ft-lbs. It's possibly it just came loose and backed out. You'll probably have to clean up the threads on the crankshaft, but the crank itself is probably fine.

It is a great time to replace your crank seal though. This guy has done a tremendous amount to his car, here's the photos of changing the seal: Replacing The Front Crankshaft Seal

 

While I was stranded waiting for the tow driver some old Saab fan stopped to check that I was OK and dropped the old "No oil leaking, is it empty?". ha ha very funny.

Yes, I already located a seal. I'll definitely look for the whole kit instead! I want to seal that up while I'm in there! How hard a job is it to replace them?

 

Thanks for that link, I should have known Bernard would have a whole page on this process. His site is invaluable for the pictures alone!

 

Well it's not coming out of there until I pull the radiator, but at least I can get a look at it.



So, it just backed out? I'm assuming that is some threadlock compound and not rusted and worn threads.

Bolt, cone, seal, distance piece all located.

Should I buy a used balancer? Remanufactured? Reuse this one? How can I test it for delamination?

Interesting coincidence here. I placed an order for an eFan to replace the primary the night before she unscrewed her pulley. Had planned to install it this Saturday.

 

Bugga.

ALL V12 crankshaft bolts can and will come loose at some stage.

Most of mine have, and "usually" a feint knock is heard at odd times. This is the damper rocking on the cone/keys, and generally the key, either one, will shear, that is its design, and we get to fix it.

I have seen one cone in 3 pieces, engine still fine, no knock detectable. Oil leak sorting was the only clue it was broken, and YES, the bolt was not as tight as it should be.

I have suggested for years, and maybe not on here, oops, that the crank bolt tightness is checked from time to time. Jam a tyre lever into the ring gear, and do your muscle thing on that bolt. I use a breaker bar and a 1mtr pipe, and heave.

Same goes for the XK 6cyl engines, but they are less a problem for some bizzare reason.

Never used thread lock, might work, dunno.

 

Harmonic balancer installed and torqued up nicely. Does anyone know what the torque on the bolts that hold the pulley assembly to it should be?

 

Tight.

Not stupid tight, just common sense tight.

 

Not tight

The service manual says 16.5-21 N/m

Thats 12-15.5 lb/ft

IE jack ****. I'd put some blue loctite on it and go common sense tight like Grant said, so long as we are talking 3/8" ratchet common sense. What size are those bolts?

 

I reckon they are 3/8 UNF.

Memory, haha, says 9/16 A/F spanner size, which equated to 3/8 bolt.

 

Thanks for the info guys!

These are 1/2 inch heads and around 2 1/2 inches long.

Front pulley reassembly went well. Hardest part of the job was a Phillips head 3/4" screw on the bottom of the shroud. Well over two hours, including drinking time, to get that little bugger out. Fused in place with rust and slightly rounded out head. All the hard parts were easy.

Belts are back on and tightened up.

I also got the eFan mounted in the original shroud and installed. Not wired yet.

 

I was assuming 3/8, although a head size of 1/2 implies 5/16. That wold make sense, because 12-15 ftlbs is about right for a grade-5 5/16

Those plastic fans are great. I have had a cheapo fan running with ignition on for the last 5-6 years.

 

I'm optimistic about the fan.



It's a nice fit, it's also very quiet and you really can't hear it over the motor.

Comparison with original mechanical fan
Built-in shroud modifications to ensure the whole area of the radiator is drawn through. This fan sits very close to the core.