What just happened?
#2
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JigJag (06-05-2017)
#3
Thank you Daim! I hope this is all fixable at home!
PS belt jumped, fan belt jumped, bolt is, scarily, at the same canted angle as the pulley.
So, repairable? Assuming bolt snapped getting that out will be fun.
theres your problem right there.
oh snap
if anyone can help with part numbers I'd really appreciate it! I'm not having luck finding the bolt or collar.
What else should I consider doing while I have the front opened up to fix this mess?
PS belt jumped, fan belt jumped, bolt is, scarily, at the same canted angle as the pulley.
So, repairable? Assuming bolt snapped getting that out will be fun.
theres your problem right there.
oh snap
if anyone can help with part numbers I'd really appreciate it! I'm not having luck finding the bolt or collar.
What else should I consider doing while I have the front opened up to fix this mess?
Last edited by JigJag; 06-05-2017 at 09:41 AM.
#5
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JigJag (06-05-2017)
#7
im hoping the bolt has sheered off or come out. It's that or the end of the crank is broken. That's hard stuff so maybe it backed out? I dropped it at the house to head back to work so I won't know till tonight.
Last edited by JigJag; 06-05-2017 at 04:26 PM.
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#8
Looks like your front main seal has been leaking for a good long time. You can get just the seal for $8 but I'd really recommend you get the seal and spacer kit for $60-$100. The spacer is the seal wear surface and show be replaced at the same time as the seal.
This is where a pressure washer is most handy. What a slimy mess these things get!
This is where a pressure washer is most handy. What a slimy mess these things get!
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JigJag (06-05-2017)
#9
The bolt is supposed to be torqued to something like 150 ft-lbs. It's possibly it just came loose and backed out. You'll probably have to clean up the threads on the crankshaft, but the crank itself is probably fine.
It is a great time to replace your crank seal though. This guy has done a tremendous amount to his car, here's the photos of changing the seal: Replacing The Front Crankshaft Seal
It is a great time to replace your crank seal though. This guy has done a tremendous amount to his car, here's the photos of changing the seal: Replacing The Front Crankshaft Seal
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JigJag (06-05-2017)
#10
Looks like your front main seal has been leaking for a good long time. You can get just the seal for $8 but I'd really recommend you get the seal and spacer kit for $60-$100. The spacer is the seal wear surface and show be replaced at the same time as the seal.
This is where a pressure washer is most handy. What a slimy mess these things get!
This is where a pressure washer is most handy. What a slimy mess these things get!
Yes, I already located a seal. I'll definitely look for the whole kit instead! I want to seal that up while I'm in there! How hard a job is it to replace them?
#11
The bolt is supposed to be torqued to something like 150 ft-lbs. It's possibly it just came loose and backed out. You'll probably have to clean up the threads on the crankshaft, but the crank itself is probably fine.
It is a great time to replace your crank seal though. This guy has done a tremendous amount to his car, here's the photos of changing the seal: Replacing The Front Crankshaft Seal
It is a great time to replace your crank seal though. This guy has done a tremendous amount to his car, here's the photos of changing the seal: Replacing The Front Crankshaft Seal
#12
Well it's not coming out of there until I pull the radiator, but at least I can get a look at it.
So, it just backed out? I'm assuming that is some threadlock compound and not rusted and worn threads.
Bolt, cone, seal, distance piece all located.
Should I buy a used balancer? Remanufactured? Reuse this one? How can I test it for delamination?
Interesting coincidence here. I placed an order for an eFan to replace the primary the night before she unscrewed her pulley. Had planned to install it this Saturday.
So, it just backed out? I'm assuming that is some threadlock compound and not rusted and worn threads.
Bolt, cone, seal, distance piece all located.
Should I buy a used balancer? Remanufactured? Reuse this one? How can I test it for delamination?
Interesting coincidence here. I placed an order for an eFan to replace the primary the night before she unscrewed her pulley. Had planned to install it this Saturday.
Last edited by JigJag; 06-06-2017 at 06:39 AM.
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orangeblossom (06-06-2017)
#13
Bugga.
ALL V12 crankshaft bolts can and will come loose at some stage.
Most of mine have, and "usually" a feint knock is heard at odd times. This is the damper rocking on the cone/keys, and generally the key, either one, will shear, that is its design, and we get to fix it.
I have seen one cone in 3 pieces, engine still fine, no knock detectable. Oil leak sorting was the only clue it was broken, and YES, the bolt was not as tight as it should be.
I have suggested for years, and maybe not on here, oops, that the crank bolt tightness is checked from time to time. Jam a tyre lever into the ring gear, and do your muscle thing on that bolt. I use a breaker bar and a 1mtr pipe, and heave.
Same goes for the XK 6cyl engines, but they are less a problem for some bizzare reason.
Never used thread lock, might work, dunno.
ALL V12 crankshaft bolts can and will come loose at some stage.
Most of mine have, and "usually" a feint knock is heard at odd times. This is the damper rocking on the cone/keys, and generally the key, either one, will shear, that is its design, and we get to fix it.
I have seen one cone in 3 pieces, engine still fine, no knock detectable. Oil leak sorting was the only clue it was broken, and YES, the bolt was not as tight as it should be.
I have suggested for years, and maybe not on here, oops, that the crank bolt tightness is checked from time to time. Jam a tyre lever into the ring gear, and do your muscle thing on that bolt. I use a breaker bar and a 1mtr pipe, and heave.
Same goes for the XK 6cyl engines, but they are less a problem for some bizzare reason.
Never used thread lock, might work, dunno.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 06-06-2017 at 06:46 AM.
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#15
#16
#17
#18
Thanks for the info guys!
These are 1/2 inch heads and around 2 1/2 inches long.
Front pulley reassembly went well. Hardest part of the job was a Phillips head 3/4" screw on the bottom of the shroud. Well over two hours, including drinking time, to get that little bugger out. Fused in place with rust and slightly rounded out head. All the hard parts were easy.
Belts are back on and tightened up.
I also got the eFan mounted in the original shroud and installed. Not wired yet.
These are 1/2 inch heads and around 2 1/2 inches long.
Front pulley reassembly went well. Hardest part of the job was a Phillips head 3/4" screw on the bottom of the shroud. Well over two hours, including drinking time, to get that little bugger out. Fused in place with rust and slightly rounded out head. All the hard parts were easy.
Belts are back on and tightened up.
I also got the eFan mounted in the original shroud and installed. Not wired yet.
Last edited by JigJag; 06-11-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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Grant Francis (06-11-2017)
#19
Those plastic fans are great. I have had a cheapo fan running with ignition on for the last 5-6 years.
#20
I'm optimistic about the fan.
It's a nice fit, it's also very quiet and you really can't hear it over the motor.
Comparison with original mechanical fan
Built-in shroud modifications to ensure the whole area of the radiator is drawn through. This fan sits very close to the core.
It's a nice fit, it's also very quiet and you really can't hear it over the motor.
Comparison with original mechanical fan
Built-in shroud modifications to ensure the whole area of the radiator is drawn through. This fan sits very close to the core.
Last edited by JigJag; 06-11-2017 at 06:46 PM.